2.4 Tensioners, chain stretch and all that mess

[chrisfreed1]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my tensioners. Trying to get as much advise before I really get into it. I'm planning a tensioner rebuild, not upgrading to the oil fed. I'm also planning on modifying my tensioners arms with new bronze bushing that I'm going to machine on my metal lathe (as per Supertech here. Can't afford the wide arms right now.

I'm interested if any one can advise on the condition of the chain and the sprockets. I have about a quarter of an inch between the drivers side tensioner and the top of the case.

The car was running great before I started to hear a little tick. I immediately parked it for inspection and found the drivers side tensioner to be squishy. I would say it has about 30K on a rebuilt engine from the early 90's. My budget is not very large but I would like to do it right.

Thanks
Chris

[eastbay]

Look OK to me, get it much tighter and the tensioner guards won't fit.

[theiceman]

I don't think that's your issue , that clearance looks fine .

[tharbert]

A failed/failing tensioner doesn't "tick", it sounds like a chain rattling inside a trash can and happens mostly on deceleration or variously during idle. But, if you can squish the tensioner by hand, it's surely failed. There are rebuild kits. There's also the Jerry Woods mod where you put a small bronze shim inside the tensioner to limit travel. I was gonna post the link to Jerry's write-up but PCA.ORG has removed the page. The PO of my car had installed those collars and one actually broke. I found the pieces in the bottom of the housing and sump.

I've read all the warnings about using shims with the narrow idler arms. I'm going to err on the side of caution and source (or make) wide armed tensioners on my rebuild. If you have access to a lathe, maybe you can widen your own?

[cmcfaul]

maybe switch to a higher quality synthetic oil also. Looks nasty in there.

Chris

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by tharbert

A failed/failing tensioner doesn't "tick", it sounds like a chain rattling inside a trash can and happens mostly on deceleration or variously during idle. But, if you can squish the tensioner by hand, it's surely failed. There are rebuild kits. There's also the Jerry Woods mod where you put a small bronze shim inside the tensioner to limit travel. I was gonna post the link to Jerry's write-up but PCA.ORG has removed the page. The PO of my car had installed those collars and one actually broke. I found the pieces in the bottom of the housing and sump.

I've read all the warnings about using shims with the narrow idler arms. I'm going to err on the side of caution and source (or make) wide armed tensioners on my rebuild. If you have access to a lathe, maybe you can widen your own?

I thought the spacer at the bottom of the tensioner inside was for the hydraulic- fed tensioners as they don't have the space to put the collar.

I also thought I read in Waynes book that if you pickup a hydraulic-fed tensioner to put back in and it squishes easily it doesn't mean its necessarily bad, just that the oil has drained out of it .

Maybe someone can confirm.

[RSTarga]

Those external collars make me nervous.
Rebuild and bleed with 60W oil. You really do need the wide arms though.

[chrisfreed1]

Thanks tharbert, a chain rattling is exactly what I had before disassembly. I think my plan is to rebuild the tensioners with the kit and get it back on the road. Then start making plans for complete teardown and rebuild in a few years.

RS Targa, what makes you nervous? Are you referring to the guards or the mod that Supertech has used in the past?


cmcfaul, it does look nasty. I've always been a little nervous going to a synthetic. I'll do some research and maybe filler her up, since its obviously time for an oil change. Any recommendations on what to use?

Thanks for the replies everyone.


Chris

[eastbay]

Those collars probably just saved you, keep them

[cmcfaul]

I am a firm user of Mobil 1 V twin 20/50. very high zinc content and designed for air cooled engines. Not really motorcycle oil as a vtwin engine is separate from the transmission.

Chris

[tharbert]

Originally Posted by theiceman

I thought the spacer at the bottom of the tensioner inside was for the hydraulic- fed tensioners...

Yup, you're right. That's why I was trying to find the page that they took down.