911sc CV Joint Video

[wacko]

Hey everyone,

Here is a video I did on the replacement of the cv boot and regreasing of the cv joint on my 911sc.

Let me know what you think.

Cheers


https://youtu.be/c9jqNo6zWzE

[Jack Stands]

Great job of explaining a dirty job! Other than for replacing torn boots (& cleaning, and regreasing the CVs), I wonder if there's a maintanance interval for when the grease should be renewed? I seem to remember it was recommended every 30,000 miles back in the 70s, but I wonder if that still holds true?

I love also being an analog guy in a digital world!

[T77911S]

your bolts are too short that go thru the flange.
there should be 2-3 threads sticking out past the flange.
Fastenal has the bolts in 5mm lengths and in a bag of 50. still cheaper than buying the correct amount here.
they also have the schnoor washers.

trust me when I say you do not want a CV coming off.

[flat6pilot]

Looks great! Keep 'em coming.

Just did mine last year. One was beyond serviceable...

[Knockdown]

Nice video, thanks for taking the time to produce it! Just did this a couple of weeks ago on one side, used Nord Lock washers that work pretty good, though you may need to select a longer bolt length to use them and spacers:

Spacers

I always do both boots while I'm in there. I didn't pull the wheel hub but that looks like it would be much easier when installing the axle assembly back in.

[chris_seven]

Originally Posted by Knockdown

Nice video, thanks for taking the time to produce it! Just did this a couple of weeks ago on one side, used Nord Lock washers that work pretty good, though you may need to select a longer bolt length to use them and spacers:

Spacers

I always do both boots while I'm in there. I didn't pull the wheel hub but that looks like it would be much easier when installing the axle assembly back in.

There are two different types of gaiter used with the 100mm CV joints.

Some of them have 'Thick Plate' - around 1/4" and these will bolt up successfully without the 'spacer' or Moon Plate as it is commonly known.

The replacement parts supplied by GKN (Lobro) are often the 'thin' bonded gaiters and are only about 1mm thick and these really need the moon plates to load them up evenly and provide a seal. If you miss the Moon Plate they tend to leak as the grease warms up.

We now use a Synthetic Non-Melting CV Grease manufactured in the UK but Swepco 101 and Belray both manufacture similar products. It does help to eliminate any leaks and has a very extended life.

We always use Unbrako Bolts but Holokrome are also very good.

[winders]

Why would you remove the shock and the axle nut? All you have to do is remove the bolts holding the CV joints to the flanges and drop the axle out.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by winders

Why would you remove the shock and the axle nut? All you have to do is remove the bolts holding the CV joints to the flanges and drop the axle out.

^^^ What he said. First thing I thought of when watching the video. Looks like a lot of extra, unneeded work. The only time you need to remove the axle nut is if you have the
later half shafts with the friction welded on outer CVs.
That said, still a nice video!

[mzavada]

Great video. Wish I would have had this last year when I dug into mine...

[OldSpool87]

Great video. I'm tackling this soon myself. I've read the 21 page CV thread twice and have my 12.9 bolts, moon plates and schorrs. What is the prevailing thought on gaskets? My kit from pelican (4 boots) came with 4 gaskets. I've read some use them and some don't. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks for sharing the video.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

My kit from pelican (4 boots) came with 4 gaskets. I've read some use them and some don't.

use them.
these form-cut cork gaskets seal the Cv flange perfektly.

Originally Posted by uwanna

The only time you need to remove the axle nut is if you have the later half shafts with the friction welded on outer CVs.

correct... and you avoid the "problem" of retorquing it correctly (410Nm/?)

[OldSpool87]

Use them where- boot to CV or CV to stub axle. Again I have 4 gaskets not 8.

Thanks

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

Use them where-

CV to stub axle /to diff flange

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by winders

Why would you remove the shock and the axle nut? All you have to do is remove the bolts holding the CV joints to the flanges and drop the axle out.

i thought the same thing but if the axle nut comes off that easy it can be easier when putting the CV back on. I thought the axle nut would be much harder to get off and I think other have had a tough time getting it off
other thing is torqueing and removing the CV bolts with the axle in a vise.
my 930 is torqued to 70lbs, not gonna happen with an clamped in a vise as I don't want to mar up the finish on the axle.

check those bolt lengths.

[wacko]

Originally Posted by T77911S

your bolts are too short that go thru the flange.
there should be 2-3 threads sticking out past the flange.

They were simply hand tight in the vice as shown in the video. They were torqued to proper specs once on the car. I will double check the length but I'm pretty sure they were good once torqued.

[OldSpool87]

Wako-

You're video was inspirational. Got mine off last night. One needs replacement:





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Brando]

Cool vid, thanks for putting it together. If I could make a recommendation - possibly a wearable mic as you were fading in and out quite a bit during the CV joint reassembly.

On a funny note, since it's analog, think you can add in some VHS scan lines?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qELSSAspRDI

[winders]

Originally Posted by T77911S

i thought the same thing but if the axle nut comes off that easy it can be easier when putting the CV back on. I thought the axle nut would be much harder to get off and I think other have had a tough time getting it off
other thing is torqueing and removing the CV bolts with the axle in a vise.
my 930 is torqued to 70lbs, not gonna happen with an clamped in a vise as I don't want to mar up the finish on the axle.

check those bolt lengths.

Do you have a torque wrench that will do 250 ft-lbs accurately? There is ZERO reason to take the axle nut off! Zero! It is EASY to take the axles out by removing JUST the CV joint to flange bolts.

I put my axles in a vise all the time. Get some aluminum jaws or jaw covers.

[winders]

Originally Posted by T77911S

i thought the same thing but if the axle nut comes off that easy it can be easier when putting the CV back on. I thought the axle nut would be much harder to get off and I think other have had a tough time getting it off
other thing is torqueing and removing the CV bolts with the axle in a vise.
my 930 is torqued to 70lbs, not gonna happen with an clamped in a vise as I don't want to mar up the finish on the axle.

check those bolt lengths.

Do you have a torque wrench that will do 250 ft-lbs accurately? There is ZERO reason to take the axle nut off! Zero! It is EASY to take the axles out by removing JUST the CV joint to flange bolts.

I put my axles in a vise all the time. Get some aluminum jaws or jaw covers.

[winders]

In the video, the star seems to be put in backwards. The star has a taper on one side at the splines. This is there to make it easier to get the splines of the axle to locate into the star. So the tapered spline side goes to the inside, not the outside.