Clutch pedal spring re-install ideas

[JohnTucker]

Hey all.

I did a pedal box re-build + new clutch cable today and am now re-installing everything. Overall, not to bad. Wouldn't exactly call this the most fun project with the limited space of the floor-well...but I'd say it's gone fairly smoothly.

But now I'm to the point of re-installing the clutch-pedal spring and I'm a little stuck. I have a feeling it's one of those 'duh' things where there is an easy solution that I'm not grasping.

Any recommendations?

[archstanton]

The trick is to insert quarters or similar metal bits into the coils to stretch it

[boyt911sc]

Do a search for pedal cluster spring installation using the “washers” method. Someone had posted a picture earlier.

Tony

[Walt Fricke]

Like Tony, I had noticed this clever idea when this picture was posted.

I have always been able to force things. Maybe I used the tool once popular on drum brakes, part of which is a stout rod whose end is ground concave: push the tool through the loop end of the spring, place the concave part on the post, and raise the rod (which acts as a lever with a nice mechanical advantage) until the spring loop slips along the rod and off the end and over the post.

[Funracer]

Here is mine from last month. I am a 90 pound weakling as they used to say in the Charles Atlas ads. This is the way to go. Keep adding washers or coins until the spring is long enough to slip into place.

Good luck

[JohnTucker]

F*ing genius. Thanks all.

[proporsche]

this might not be enough...use 13mm(4x) nut instead and you will have less hard time to install the spring....
Ivan

['78 SC]

Also, note the hooked ends are not symmetrical. If you attach the "U" shaped end first the "D" shaped end requires less extension to slip onto its mount.

[john walker's workshop]

Should have been installed when the cluster was out, but still can be done in the car with a shortened universal brake spring lever tool. Shorten it to clear the wheel well hump, run it through the hook, set the cupped end on the knob and carefully pry the spring enough so it slides down the tool's shaft and over the knob. 30 seconds.

A thread back in '09. See post #9. Clutch pedal return spring question

[JohnTucker]

Thanks all. Honestly...I'm sure there are better methods, but the coin trick worked like a charm. Not JWW's 30 seconds...but 4-5 minutes tops. Car is back together with rebuilt pedal box and a new clutch cable and running/driving great. Thanks again for all the great advice.

John

[snbush67]

Monster speaker cable worked for me.

[Walt Fricke]

Were these as easy to get out as washers (which I used, forgetting that maybe the picture I had seen used coins, which also are fairly easy to get out when done)?

Vice grips pull them right out?

[Darkly-Noon]

Just a question...what is the purpose of the spring? I've owned my SC for 8 years, and last year I removed the floorboard to check the pedal bushings. They were ok, I think a previous owned had replaced them at some point. However the spring was missing. So I bought a spring and managed to install it using the washer method illustrated above, thinking my heavy clutch was due to not having that spring in place. However I could not discern any difference in feel after installing it, and the clutch seems to operate the same as before

[911pcars]

Try a brake spring tool. However, not sure there's enough swing space to lever the loop into place. If not, heat is a good bending tool.



Sherwood

[john walker's workshop]

Like I mentioned in post#9, cut that brake spring tool shorter so it clears the wheel well hump.
The left end in the picture is what you use.

[AlKidd]

It is so much easier when out of the car. The pedal moves, in its arc to the point you can connect the spring by hand. No washers, no fighting, no blood loss.

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Were these as easy to get out as washers (which I used, forgetting that maybe the picture I had seen used coins, which also are fairly easy to get out when done)?

Vice grips pull them right out?

Same, I used vice grips and they slide right out.

These were easy to slide in because they stayed in place better than the washers. I wasn’t having an easy time getting the washers to stay put.

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by Darkly-Noon

Just a question...what is the purpose of the spring? I've owned my SC for 8 years, and last year I removed the floorboard to check the pedal bushings. They were ok, I think a previous owned had replaced them at some point. However the spring was missing. So I bought a spring and managed to install it using the washer method illustrated above, thinking my heavy clutch was due to not having that spring in place. However I could not discern any difference in feel after installing it, and the clutch seems to operate the same as before

The clutch pedal spring counter balances the tension of the omega spring mounted on the transmission. You should check to see that your omega spring and your clutch cable adjustment are correct.

[Walt Fricke]

A heavy clutch in an SC is often a sign that the omega (harp) spring back on the transmission is broken. The inner of the three leaves can crack in half, and that is hard to see. But that spring is not doing its magic to make depressing the clutch pretty easy. You ought to be able to depress the pedal by hand without having to struggle to do that.

If the crack is there, you can see it, maybe after a good cleaning.

Another cause of a hard pedal is binding on the vertical shaft which has the TOB fingers on its inside end, and the long lever system on its open, bottom end. About the only solution to that is to remove the transmission so you can get the shaft out, clean it, replace it if it happens to be all scored (not too likely), and clean the bushings - or replace them.

If you loosen the 8mm bolt which in essence joins the two pieces of the external lever, you should be able to wiggle the short arm. Not far, but there is some play in the throwout fork in its groove in the throwout bearing. So the short arm should rotate a bit freely.

[997at]

Just thought I'd add to this old thread since I did this job with the pedal cluster in the car yesterday after my spring broke a couple of months ago.
I tried the washer trick first but no bueno for me. Went with J.W.'s advice and went to the FLAPS, bought a brake spring tool, modified it and had the spring installed in 1 minute. Works like a charm. However, be aware that you'll need an angle grinder and 15-30 mins to make the tool first
Pic of mine below.