Need Engine Advice....

carwash · 05-18-2016, 08:30 PM

So I got the engine out of the car, and I am on the fence about what to do. It is a 2.2 out of a 1970 911T. The car is a 912, so it's obvious that it's not original, and I am not a purist.... I am a driver. This motor ran, and ran well, or as well and strong as I feel like a 2.2 should feel I guess. I drove it 5 hours home after buying it.

The engine is leaking like a sieve, from everywhere, especially the center are where the case splits. So, if nothing else, the motor needs to be disassembled, and re-gasketed and reassembled. I have not done a leak down test or a compression test. The motor is now out of the car, can that all still be done on the bench, er in a stand I guess.

My fears-
#1 - Once I get into the disassembly of this motor, I'm going to realize I am in way over my head, and have a pile of disassembled porsche engine with no course of action at that point. I have built motors, but never a porsche flat 6. I am very mechanically inclined and have an arsenal of tools at my disposal.
#2 - I'm going to get it apart and realize that it needs a crank, bearings, and rods, and EVERYTHING else and I will have a million dollars wrapped up in it. I know I'm looking at having to send off the crank and rods for balancing, etc (or will I?), just not wanting to end up needing to buy a crank, etc.
#3 - I'm going to spend a good chunk of money rebuilding this motor only to realize that I really need something larger bore for more power etc. I don't know what the 2.2 puts out exactly. My goal is to have my car as close to 2000 pounds as possible, and I don't need 400 hp to have fun... I have other cars for that.

What think ye? I've ordered the How To Rebuild Porsche Engines book. Is this something I can do myself? How many specialty tools will I need?

All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Did you clean the engine and try to ID where it was actually leaking from before removal?

You may not have to split the case.

It could be coming from the triangle of oil death, rocker shafts, return tubes and or oil lines.

Did you do a leakdown test?

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Did you clean the engine and try to ID where it was actually leaking from before removal?

You may not have to split the case.

It could be coming from the triangle of oil death, rocker shafts, return tubes and or oil lines.

Did you do a leakdown test?

Good advice.

How did the motor run?

The FIRST thing to do is get Wayne's book. " How to Rebuild and Modify your Porsche 911 Engine" It will answer all your questions. (I see you ordered it. spend some time reading it. It is the bible of overhauling and upgrading.)

You also need a workshop manual. Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

The thing about 911s is, its all about how much more power do you want and how much money do you have to spend.
It's a slippery slope.

You can also spend a lot of time on this board. Do searches. Visit the 911 engine rebuilding forum. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/

If I was you, I would put the motor on a stand. Take off all the peripheries. And replace most of the external seals, and gaskets, and fuel lines. Put it back in and enjoy driving it while making a plan of what mods you want to make.

If the motor has never been rebuilt before, you might want to pull the heads and decide about doing a valve job or total overhaul. Keeping in mind that 911 motors require certain special tools to do the job correctly.

Without knowing the history of the motor, or your budget, it is hard to give any specific answers.

It would be very beneficial if you know a machinist, in case you decide a valve job is needed.

bobrestore · 05-18-2016, 09:57 PM

you just got some great advice from the above posters ..... when you say leaks a lot that can be the drainback tubes.. they dry out when engine sits and when put back on the road leak tons of oil ... the oil can blow around the engine and make you think its leaking other places as well.

carwash · 05-19-2016, 02:43 AM

Excellent advice. Thanks a lot! I did not realize there was an engine rebuilding forum. Books have been ordered.

Oil is leaking from several places, one of them being the main center line where the case halves split. Someone has tried to slather silicone on this line down the outside of the case trying to stop it. LOL.

I guess if I do a compression and leak down test, that will show me a little more what kind of shape this motor is in internally.

I'm OK with spending several thousand dollars just freshening this motor up with seals and gaskets, etc. I just don't want to have $10,000 in this motor, and wish I had just gone to a 2.7 or 3.0.

Ideally, I'm hoping that I can just hear this motor down, replace all seals and gaskets, and reassemble. There is very little chance of that isn't there?

theiceman · 05-19-2016, 04:13 AM

I have never torn an engine down and using waynes book, am just wrapping iit up. It takes patience but is not difficult at all. Very few special tools needed. Cam nut tool and tools to measure overlap.

Just find a machine shop you can trust and all will be well.

carwash · 05-19-2016, 04:24 AM

Is it possible to do a compression and leak down test with the motor on a stand?

Discseven · Discseven's Garage

Doing leakdown... you can get idea of where potential issues are before breaking the engine down. I believe this should be done on warm engine but doing it cold is better than not doing it at all. Put ear to intake --- if hissing, intake valve for that cylinder is leaking. Exhaust --- if hiss, exhaust valve leaking. Case breather hose -- if hiss, worn rings and or cylinders out of round. Of course this does not tell exactly what is wrong but does provide insight for rough budgeting purposes ahead of diving in. Take your time and enjoy the journey "Wash!"

carwash · 05-19-2016, 07:00 PM

The engine hasn't run for a few months, and is now out of the car and on the floor. Is it possible to do a compression and leak down test like this?

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

Leak down, yes. Compression? Hmmmmm.

I doubt you would get any reliable information doing either test now.

Even if both of those tests' results were good, it would not tell you anything about your valve guides.

Basically you need to decide. Put it in and run it, then decide on your course of action. Or just go ahead and tear it down.

Either way, read Wayne's or Bruce's book first. Run the numbers. Costs can really add up fast.

On a 2,2 T motor, to do it right, meaning having a motor that will run well for a reasonable amount of time, you are looking at new pistons and cylinders and a valve job with new guides just for the top end. If you split the cases, well that will fill another thread. The short story is on a reasonably well cared for 2,2T motor you probably have better than a 50/50 chance of the crank and case being in spec. If not you may as well look for a new motor, IMO.

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

BTW, While you are waiting on Waynes book here is some good information for you in this other thread.
Point of reference for cost wanted...