First time engine drop - obligatory silly photo

[smarjoram]

It's important to have the right tools.

Serious bit: We took our time, carefully adjusted heights and angles of car, transmission and engine so as not to put strain on the shift rod - and it came out fine. We basically lifted the car away from the engine and used a trolley and trolley jack - with wooden blocks to support the strong bits and keep it all stable.

Next bit is to strip it down and see how many of the head studs are broken. Hoping it doesn't turn into too much of a nightmare as up 'til now the car has been very reliable. Good to see the underside of the car looks nice and solid - no rust. Only really rotten parts are the heat exchangers and heater control boxes. It'll be interesting to see if I still have the old rubber clutch.

Any thoughts on OEM parts over genuine Porsche parts?

[pmax]

Welcome !


As a recent member myself, I recognize those silly grins

[OsoMoore]

Whatever you do, don't buy the "cheap" parts. I had my transmission apart and saved $20-$30 on a few synchro rings. And it ended up costing me another week of summer driving when I had to return them for higher quality ones.

Then the next year I "saved" $100 on a cheaper ignition coil. That mistake ended up costing me a lot more as the cheaper coil had minor malfunctions but I assumed it worked, and thus chased many expensive rabbit trails.

Good luck!

[strictly]

if a hammer dosent fix it, its an electrical problem

[strictly]

you can use a mixture, i have had aftermarket stuff fail in less than 3 weeks. It depends what it is. If its easy to get too and twice the price go aftermarket, if its a pain to redo, or get to then go genuine porsche. Your local OPC will give you 10% if you ask nicely, or say your a PCGB member

[DRACO A5OG]

Long as they are OEM manufacturer, you will be fine, no Porsche Tax

As exterior and interior cosmetic/trim go Porsche

Welcome!, HolySmokes, you raised her pretty high

[Steve F]

Love the garage!!

[Discseven]

Nice shot guys! I'm with brother Jim... go OEM.

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

I have a very similar picture to this, actually two for two different occasions, haha. Can't go wrong with OEM supplier and Genuine parts for your build. All of these parts are indicated directly next to the part in our catalog.

Pelican Parts.com - Parts, Accessories and Technical Information for all Porsche Automobiles.

[universeman]

I have had mixed results with OEM parts. It seems to this layperson that Porsche does not allow the OEMs to just reuse the molds, materials and designs of the Genuine Porsche parts -- I can see this being a condition of them getting the contract to manufacture the parts -- so they make subtle design changes (probably reviewed and approved by Porsche) to make the parts different or dare I say - inferior - to the Genuine part.

I know it's painful but it seems that Porsche parts for most items that are "911-specific" like body rubber and seals, interior, drive train mechanicals, etc are better, while OEM versions of generalized parts like brakes, suspension, convenience systems, etc are fine. Just my .02

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by smarjoram

It'll be interesting to see if I still have the old rubber clutch.

Outstanding picture!

I will bet the rubber clutch is long gone. When I first pulled the engine in my 81 (1996 - right after purchase) it had a 1983 manufacture date on a regular Sachs disc.

I finally replaced the assembly in 2009 with the Sachs power clutch kit when the trans was rebuilt. I think it's a touch beefier than stock but a women can still work the pedal with a bit of effort. Mind you, that was six years ago so I do not know what Sachs offers now, let alone other options.

In 1996, I had one broken stud and was not a Pelican member (no place to bounce questions off of) so I chickened out and took the unopened case to a machine shop to have the studs removed. $100 well spent back then. I installed Raceware studs, washers and nuts. I think now that was overkill for a street car. Cheaper, as effective options exist today for street. They existed back then, I just did not know.

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Also, a good read about OEM, OES, OE, Genuine and Aftermarket Parts below:

Pelican Parts - Frequently Asked Questions about OEM, Genuine and Aftermarket Parts

[Hugh R]

Rookies, everyone knows you should have been using a ball peen hammer and a hacksaw.

nice

[ant7]

Hey, Nice to see another one from the UK.
It gets a bit lonely on here at times!
Great pick, good luck with it
Anthony.

[tobluforu]

Holy crap, those are some tall jack stands!

[Jose_JGC]

Thanks for posting.
Good luck
Jose

[smarjoram]

Thanks very much for all the useful info and words of encouragement! Found the first broken head stud last night - it dropped out when I removed the engine tin on the back, near the transmission. It's dilavar - and thankfully left me with plenty to get hold of. Wonder how many more there will be.

[stephens_kj]

Nice work, I look forward to seeing the progress as I have some work coming up on mine soon. I will probably stick something on here when I start, but nothing as drastic as engine removal, not yet anyway. Enjoy, and keep the updates coming..

[Ken Ellaway]

I did a total engine re-build of a 1977 Carrera 3.0 in late 2014 and opted to use the Raceware Headstuds as well.

I'm in Australia,but was happy to pay the freight and a little wait, to get the best.

[Pinch]

Great Photo! I'm in the same boat with my SC. Found three broken head studs just on one side.

Question: how high do you need to get the car to safely drop the engine? You have really jacked the car up (> 1m). Is there a minimum height needed to get it out?