Newbie takes the leap into engine repair - but first...

[keithlambert7]

All,

I'm new to the forum and new to engine repair on my own , yeah, I know what you're thinking...but everyone tells me this is an easy repair and even I can do it! Except it looks a lot more complicated then I thought. Let me explain.

I have an '89 3.2 and I've developed a sudden leak in the top main oil line on the left side of the engine. Not at the tee where it branches off down to the Cam Chain, but right at the 2" long rubber flex joint that's behind the distributor.

I'd like to replace it with the new lines I purchased. I decided to buy both the main line and the one the drops down to the cam since thay use a compression fitting at the tee, and thought it might leak again if I only replaced the main line.

Here's my problem;

What needs to come off the engine (surely the blower elbow etc. as a minimum?) and in what order to get to the oil lines? Are there any special torque requirements? Anything a newbie should just stay the hell away from?

Many thanks... Want to try to drive this thing today...

Keith

[keithlambert7]

All,

The worst part is, I have a gift from my wife under the tree "101 Projects for Your 911" which probably tells me how to do this and my wife refuses to allow me to open it early!!!

Keith

[2.7911E]

I have no idea but hopefully someone else will come along that does. Michael

[82SC]

try going to pelican's main page and find the link for parts diagrams...

that may help you visualize using a blown up diagram

also if you post a digital pic of what you are talking about that may help as well

also search the archieves they are a great underused resource

and don't worry...last year I hadn't even done an oil change...right now my engine is on the garage floor getting new camshafts

MJ

[Doug E]

Keith -

Where is Waterford relative to NoVa?

As you can tell from the NoVa board there is plenty of help available in our area so don't hesitate to put out a call to arms if you need it!

[keithlambert7]

Originally posted by 2.7911E
I have no idea but hopefully someone else will come along that does. Michael

Michael,

Thanks, I had a go at it anyhow. I had to remove the distributor cap, and a few plug wires, and both elbows for the blower just to get in there.

I'm stuck at the fitting on the right side of the main oil line. That compression fitting is tucked into a really small spot behind the distributor. I sure don't want to remove the distrbutor base if I don't have to. Don't want to have to deal with timing issues.

That's where I am after about 45 mintues of wrestling. Just can't seem to get a wrench or anything in there to get it loose. Time for a break...

Keith

[keithlambert7]

Originally posted by Doug E
Keith -

Where is Waterford relative to NoVa?

As you can tell from the NoVa board there is plenty of help available in our area so don't hesitate to put out a call to arms if you need it!

Doug,

I'll take any help I can get. I'm about 5 minutes West of Leesburg.

540-882-4016

Keith

[Vipergrün]

I think your best bet will to be to remove the distributor. Turn the motor over by hand until its at TDC for cylinder #1 before removing it. You can also make a reference mark on the little *arm* where the bolt goes so you can get the timing back close to where it was.

While your at it you may want to replace the adapter parts as referenced in this thread;

Best 5 bucks spent on engine insurance.

Best of luck....

[yelcab1]

I replaced mine on the 3.2 and did not have to remove the dizzy. However, it does make it easier and it is not a whole lot harder. Line it up at TDC, mark where the rotor is pointing and remove it. Do your line, and put the dizzy back the same way.

Probably a 1 hour job, if you know what you are doing.

[yelcab1]

By the way, tight enough is enough. Don't over do it

[Superman]

I thought you'd have trouble with that inner fitting. I'd remove the distributor. As it slides out, the rotor will probably turn (if you have worm drive gears, like mine). Watch the rotor turn, and when you put the distributor back in, start with the rotor in that position, so that when it goes back in, the rotor will turn back to its original position.

Also, be very careful to start the new fittings by hand. It is not hard to get those fittings started crooked, and you DON'T want that to happen. So, just make sure they are going in square and mating properly with the threads. then tighten, but not too tight. Just kind of firmly.

[Bobboloo]

Removing the dizzy is no big deal. Just put the crank at Z1 and pop the cap so you can see how the rotor lines up to the #1 or #4 terminal. Also take a pencil and mark the base of the dizzy where the bolt tightens to hold the timing of the dizzy. This way your timing will be very close when you put the light on it to retime.

One more suggestion, Put either tape or a stopper or something over the dizzy hole before you remove or replace any oil line parts. You don't want a washer falling into the crankcase.

Bobby

[ChrisBennet]

Superman's advice on noting the position and rotation of the rotor is very good advice and worth remembering.
The 3.2's timing is set by the computer so there is no need to mark the base position of the distributor like you would for an earlier motor.
As soon as you remove the distributor put a rag or something in the hole. Do not say to yourself "I'll just be careful".
-Chris

[keithlambert7]

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
Superman's advice on noting the position and rotation of the rotor is very good advice and worth remembering.
The 3.2's timing is set by the computer so there is no need to mark the base position of the distributor like you would for an earlier motor.
As soon as you remove the distributor put a rag or something in the hole. Do not say to yourself "I'll just be careful".
-Chris

All,

Thanks for all the great advice.

I think I'll remove the distributor since it's computer controlled anyway and from the posts seems to be fairly simple.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll post a followup to let you know how I make out.

Keith