I need a metal guru for this question

GSpreeman · GSpreeman's Garage

How much heat will stainless steel, 2B finish, conduct at 11 gauge thickness? I need to heatproof some parts and the temperature could rise to 400-500 degrees. Given that it is exposed to the heat source long enough I assume that the thermal properties of the metal will eventually allow all of the heat to pass through but I am trying to figure out how long that will take and to what extent (given any heat dissapation that might occur).

Thanks.

Jbabic · Jbabic's Garage

Is it 314 SS or 316 or ? I may have a source.

Chuck Moreland · 12-29-2002, 07:21 PM

Here is some data on thermal conductivity of a couple grades of stainless.

http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm

Other grades of stainless will have similar but not identical thermal conductivity.

RAM · RAM's Garage

What type of part are you designing? Are you making it from sheet? If so, maybe you could move into a different material. I used to work for Carpenter Tech as a Regional Metallurgist and have retained some info.

Jim Sims · 12-30-2002, 08:15 PM

More data please. If one does things correctly (or incorrectly) one could match the heat transfer rate at the surface of the sun (forced convection boiling heat transfer). What are you trying to do? Make a component that can operate at a certain temperature or make a heat shield to protect other parts? The amount of heat transfered depends on the temperature difference across the sheet. The temperatures on the two sides of the sheet depend on the conditions on the two sides: fluid flow, thermal radiation to and from other colder and hotter surfaces, physical contact, etc. Cheers, Jim

GSpreeman · GSpreeman's Garage

Well, this is soon to get kicked off for off-topic reasons...the fiance just purchased a Wolf industrial stove for our residential kitchen. It seems that they are not supposed to be within 10" of anything flamable so, I'm trying to find something to put on the sides of the cabinets next to it so it doesn't catch my kitchen on fire. I built the cabinets myself out of 3/4" oak and don't really want to have to trim them back by 10".

island911 · 12-30-2002, 09:46 PM

I was just looking at those Wolf units. They put out a lot of heat! (and not all goes into the food which is why they need monster hoods/ventalation)

If you have to shoe horn it in somewhere, use a slab of granite for a thermal block. . . that's what I would do.

YMMV

eion · 12-30-2002, 11:06 PM

Seems to me that metal, a very good conductor of heat, would be a very bad idea. Eventually almost all of the heat will pass through to the wood - and when it gets hot enough, it'll burn, which would be A Bad Thing (tm).

No, it seems to me that a thermal insulator would be a better idea than a thermal conductor. I'd use something like high-temperature ceramic tiles, high-temperature millboard, calcium silicate board, or silica board. I'd say that silica board (http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/3209.html for example) would be the best option, although it's quite expensive. Then again, so is replacing burnt cabinets...

Silveresrty911S · Silveresrty911S's Garage

Minimum 600-800 cfm hood ventilation, fire retardent board @ plumbers supply, 1/4" durock or wonder board ( pre-made cement board) and some porcelan tile ( porcelan is fired hotter and is harder). My .02

Rick

dean · 12-31-2002, 08:36 AM

Boy is this off topic.

You can use any metal you want. All you have to do is provide an air space of one inch all the way around and space the metal one inch away from the thing you are trying to protect. And the way to test is it if you can touch the cabinet with a roaring fire and it doesn't hurt then you are safe.

dean · 12-31-2002, 08:39 AM

Woops I reread your post. If you just put a piece of metal in spaced one inch away from the cabinet with airflow behind you should be all set.

RAM · RAM's Garage

Ti Sheet works well as dedcribed above. Also works for insulating the interior from hot exhaust (back on subject).

Jim Sims · 12-31-2002, 04:27 PM

Most heat shields for stoves typically allow one to about half the clearance distance not eliminate it. A circulating air space behind the shield is also usually required as someone else has also stated. I also agree that metal alone is a poor choice for your application. A stainless steel outer facing (for cleaning and appearance purposes) covering a mineral fiber insulating board would make a good heat shield panel in this instance. The trick would be making it look good; especially the air circulation space. Perhaps one could use decorative perforated metal sheet to span the gap between the heat shield and the cabinents. I would contact the stove manufacturer; I doubt your situation is unique. They may have a kit available. One note of caution: if your installation violates your local building code or the manufacturer's instructions you may void your homeowners insurance. Not a good thing to find out after a fire. Good luck. Jim

dean · 12-31-2002, 04:52 PM

I would contact your building inspector to see what he wants. Or the fire dept. I would bet that all you need is a piece of metal spaced out.

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

Stainless sheeting will do the trick. If you do not have a source, contact a kitchen equipment supplier.

If you still don't have any luck, contact a local sheetmetal contractor and ask if they can provide you with information on what you would need (they install commercial hoods for kitchens.) They should be able to help you with info and stainless steel sheeting should you need it.

If you still run into a block wall, contact your local building inspection department and ask for the HVAC division. They are familiar with the local codes and ordinances for both residental and commercial buildings.

And as a last resort, contact the stove manufacturer and ask them if they have an accessory to go with the stove to provide the protection you need. If they don't I am sure they can make a recommendation.

Steve

"A Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line"

Zeke · 12-31-2002, 08:45 PM

I have had two Wolf ranges. I use the stainless over the dense cement fiber board screwed to 3/4 x 3/4" slats on wall at studs. SS is folded on brake to hook over FB and a small amount of tile adhesive to secure.

BTW, commercial ranges in home seldom see the use of a commercial kitchen, i.e., all burners and ovens going at the same time. We did that once and the whole kitchen was 100 degrees. Then the wall did get hot. Lastly, the proper hood is esential as well as make-up air from an outside source. An open window will do.

Now what's this got to do with 911s? Well, the Wolf oven is big enough to heat an entire trailing arm.

GSpreeman · GSpreeman's Garage

"Minimum 600-800 cfm hood ventilation, fire retardent board @ plumbers supply, 1/4" durock or wonder board ( pre-made cement board) and some porcelan tile ( porcelan is fired hotter and is harder). "

I'll try the above solution. Until we're sure that it's going to work, I'll make sure I'm in the kitchen watching for smoke and flames anytime we use the stove.

Thanks all!