Rust-proofing a 911

Paul Franssen · Paul Franssen's Garage

...well, I mean improving the 911 bodywork as much as possible against rust, by using products such as Dinitrol, Waxoyl or whatever, injected/sprayed into the hollow parts of the 911 (no pun intended!).
(1) Which brand/product would those who know about the process recommend?

(2) What are the areas, elements, "hollow structures" to be treated? Where would holes have to be drilled (and what diameter? They'd need to get plugged up again, no?)

(3) Does any one have a 911 plan/drawing, showing areas or spraying patterns? An original "Dinitrol" booklet for the 911 would be perfect!

Now's the time to have my 1988 Carrera treated to a proper greasing of the underside! (BTW it's been raining continuously for 24 hours now, luv'ly wheath'ah!).

Thanks for your help.

RichardL · 12-30-2002, 04:52 AM

Hi Paul
I suffer from exactly the same concerns here in Ireland ...... sure it's getting warmer but it's also getting much wetter!
I'm booking my '89 Carerra into a specialist in the New Year to get it Waxoyl'd. It will cost approx €150 but at least I know it will be done correctly (I hope!)

12-30-2002, 07:23 AM

I'll have mine treated after the winter. I don't think the product brand is so important as long as you stay with the "big" names. I'm not going to have holes drilled in my car. After all there aren't as many inaccessible "hollow structures" in a 911 as in many newer family cars.

BTW here its dry, windy and minus degrees......and it feels so cold.

Glasgow 911SC · Glasgow 911SC's Garage

Paul,
It might be worthwhile cheching that all your undersealing is intact and patch up any areas that are peeling/cracking.

Richard,
Nice to see some more guys from our side of the Atlantic!

Joeaksa · 12-30-2002, 08:06 AM

Chris,

You bring up a good point. When I lived in Germany, they do the TUV vehicle inspection every year or two.

One thing that always really pissed me off was their taking a pointed welding hammer and hammering on the bottom of my 911 to try and find rust. Anywhere they did this there was a new hole in the undercoating as well as a small dent where the steel underbody was now primed and ready for rust!

Not sure what they do in the UK or rest of Europe but always after this wonderful inspection I had to redo the undercoating every place they had poked holes.

Joe

Glasgow 911SC · Glasgow 911SC's Garage

Know what you mean Joe. My passenger sde floor has been dented by poor jacking by previous owners. The underseal has been redone though.

Paul Franssen · Paul Franssen's Garage

Yes, I've gotten a Dinitrol quote of 200 Euros (same as dollars...) from a classic VW fans garage, the guy's done Porsches before and he seems to know what he's talking about.
Happy New Year, by the way!

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

Why not try the "Rhion Liner" that they use in pick-up trucks. It seems to me that that would work just as well as any other application and it probably could be sprayed into the hollow areas.

Steve

"A Porsche does more the just go fast in a straight line"

Halm · 01-01-2003, 06:23 PM

What ever happened to Ziebart? They still in the rust proofing business?

steve rush · 01-01-2003, 08:13 PM

I have had such extremely good luck with Extend
a Duro or Dupont product (the brown squeeze plastic bottle / not the spray). It changes the chemistry from iron oxcite to....(read the bottle) and unlike Oshpho sp? or any of the old jelly types...it stays with the metal; be it Cat dozer or Toy 4x truck in the woods. If it is not your pride and Joy you can paint without primer.
If I do use primer (can't get red lead types anymore) I use the Rustoleum Damp proof primer...it has fish oil. We used to put candle fish oil on our skiff tools for NW coast diving up to Aaska and back....rub fish oil on and use with idle times spent in the bilge (salt water and rain)...end of the summer=no rust.
$.02 / Happy New Year