CV Joint c clip tool?

tito911s · 09-23-2016, 09:33 AM

What tool do you guys need for CV joint c-clip that is on the outside of the CV joint that connects the drive shaft. I've spent the better part of 2 hours trying to get it off with my (what I guess) inadequate c-clip tools. This is what I'm using: AceÂ® Snap Ring Plier Set - Plier Sets - Ace Hardware

Appreciate any guidance as after I'm done with this joint, I have one more on the other side to do.

yelcab1 · 09-23-2016, 09:34 AM

You just need a bigger C clip pliers.

tito911s · 09-23-2016, 09:58 AM

OK -- I'll go out and get a pair. I hope it is as easy as that.

gtc · gtc's Garage

I've tried those same pliers. They're not good for much of anything.
Don't bother with the replaceable tip kind, either.

Napa has some good snap ring pliers in the $15-20 range.

yelcab1 · 09-23-2016, 10:16 AM

Sealey AK8445 Circlip Pliers Set 2pc Reversible Straight/bent Nose 12-25mm (AK-8445)

The straight tips one works for me, and you want one that has the ends to be almost as big as the holes in the circlip. It is about 7 inches long

tito911s · 09-24-2016, 06:48 PM

Thank you both. Took another 2 hours and three sets of snap pliers that really didn't work to well. Napa didn't have any good ones and O'Reily, well, yeah.

Could use a little more advice, though...

Now I cannot get the joint (or what is left of it as all the balls fell out) off from the axel. No matter how I turn it, how hard I pull, there just isn't enough room.

Anyone know why? At this point if I can't pull out the axel I need to figure out how to back out the CV bolts on the trans box. Since the CV joint is disconnected and innards are out, I don't know how to keep the axel fixed to get the axel off.

Making progress, albeit slowely.

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997at · 09-25-2016, 07:46 AM

[QUOTE=tito911s;9294164]Thank you both. Took another 2 hours and three sets of snap pliers that really didn't work to well. Napa didn't have any good ones and O'Reily, well, yeah.

Could use a little more advice, though...

Now I cannot get the joint (or what is left of it as all the balls fell out) off from the axel. No matter how I turn it, how hard I pull, there just isn't enough room.

Anyone know why? At this point if I can't pull out the axel I need to figure out how to back out the CV bolts on the trans box. Since the CV joint is disconnected and innards are out, I don't know how to keep the axel fixed to get the axel off.

Making progress, albeit slowely.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

I just removed my CVs and axles to clean repack and reinstall. Turns out they were toast so I'm going to replace with new axle sets. For the C clips you also discovered that you need a decent set of large circlip pliers. Found mine at Tool Mart in Daly City. If they don't have it, you don't need it! On to your problem. I'm not sure if I understand the dilemma completely, but you should be able to just set the parking brake to prevent the axle from turning.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

tito911s · 09-25-2016, 09:13 AM

Pulled off the boots and noticed this:

After replacing the 2.7L with my rebuilt 3.0L, I noticed that the rear of the car sits low. Could this have resulted in the axel putting pressure on the metal piece that connects the boot to the joint?

997at · 09-25-2016, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tito911s

Pulled off the boots and noticed this:

After replacing the 2.7L with my rebuilt 3.0L, I noticed that the rear of the car sits low. Could this have resulted in the axel putting pressure on the metal piece that connects the boot to the joint?

Car is sitting lower possibly due to extra weight of the 3.0 vs 2.7. Not sure why that pressure would be on the boot flange though. It's possible that a CV failed at some point although it would have been heard and felt. When you install the new ones just be sure to rotate the wheels and make sure nothing is binding.

Sboxin · Sboxin's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by tito911s

Pulled off the boots and noticed this:

After replacing the 2.7L with my rebuilt 3.0L, I noticed that the rear of the car sits low. Could this have resulted in the axel putting pressure on the metal piece that connects the boot to the joint?

It looks like someone didn't tie up the axles when R&R the motor ?

Regards,

yelcab1 · 09-25-2016, 03:00 PM

I don't know what your problem is but if you let me know where you live and can swing by and take a look.

You should not have attempted to take the CV joint out until AFTER you have removed the axle from the car.

tito911s · 09-25-2016, 04:01 PM

Thanks gents. Live in Walnut Creek -- east bay. Yelcab1, you are welcome anytime. At this point I have 2+ CV joints that need replacing and think that I should replace both axel assemblies.

Not sure why, but the deformity was on the wheel hub side (not trans box side). So whatever the reason, the axel must have been resting/pushing against CV boot flange.

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yelcab1 · 09-25-2016, 04:53 PM

I see what you mean. You have removed the cv joint from the axle with the other end still attached to the transmission. Bad boy, that is not the way to mess with CV joints which is always better done outside the car, on a bench, attached to the bench vise.

At this point, what I would do is:

1. Put the car in 5th gear, and see if that is enough friction to break the CV bolt loose.

2. If not, then put the old joint back on the axle shaft, attach it with a couple of CV bolts to the hub of the car, use a screw driver wedged into the side of the brake rotor to block it from turning, and remove the other end of the axle shaft, and replace the cv joint on the bench.

The reason the metal flange is deformed that way on the outboard side is at some point in its life, the engine was removed and the axles were left to hang down on their own weight instead of tying it up. Not a tragedy, just not pretty.

jlex · jlex's Garage

Have you tried a gear puller? I used one on the inboard CV joint when I replaced the boots on my '88. Had the axle off and in a vise, though. Wouldn't dare fiddle with it while attached to the car unless I had a lift...

tito911s · 09-26-2016, 07:54 AM

Thank you gents. I have both axels OFF, now. Luckily, I have a lift, which made the process slightly easier. Both CV boot flanges were deformed. I believe yelcab/sboxin hit the nail on the head -- when the engine was pulled, the weight of the transmission likely deformed them. In any event, since I have three boots that need replacement, I purchased two axel assemblies/CV bolts from our host, and acquired the "moon" (locking) plates and schnorr washers. I hope to have it all together by the end of the week.

A couple lessons learned:
(1) While some may prefer to replace a boot on one side of the axel while it is still in the car, I won't go down that road again. As yelcab says, next time I will pull the entire axel. It was incredibly difficult to try to take out the c clip on the wheel hub side when the axel connected to the transmission box is still connected.

(2) Obviously -- don't ever take out engine without transmission fully supported to prevent axel boot flange damage.

(3) Replace all parts/hardware appropriately -- including moon plates, schnorr washers, appropriate CV bolts -- and torque appropriately with a re-torque after 100+ miles.

(4) Finally -- the c clip pliers -- the topic that started this. I was working on the drivers side CV joint/boot on the wheel hub side. I disconnected all the CV bolts and pulled back the joint but COULD NOT get at the c clip on the end of the axel. After something like 3-4 hours, I used a variety of tools to get the clip off, only to find that I was UNABLE to get the joint off the axel. Ugh. After the help of the guys above, figured out I needed to take the axel off. This leads me back to the first point -- just take off the axel. It's much easier to take the c clip off on the transmission box side...

997at · 09-26-2016, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tito911s

Thank you gents. I have both axels OFF, now. Luckily, I have a lift, which made the process slightly easier. Both CV boot flanges were deformed. I believe yelcab/sboxin hit the nail on the head -- when the engine was pulled, the weight of the transmission likely deformed them. In any event, since I have three boots that need replacement, I purchased two axel assemblies/CV bolts from our host, and acquired the "moon" (locking) plates and schnorr washers. I hope to have it all together by the end of the week.

A couple lessons learned:
(1) While some may prefer to replace a boot on one side of the axel while it is still in the car, I won't go down that road again. As yelcab says, next time I will pull the entire axel. It was incredibly difficult to try to take out the c clip on the wheel hub side when the axel connected to the transmission box is still connected.

(2) Obviously -- don't ever take out engine without transmission fully supported to prevent axel boot flange damage.

(3) Replace all parts/hardware appropriately -- including moon plates, schnorr washers, appropriate CV bolts -- and torque appropriately with a re-torque after 100+ miles.

(4) Finally -- the c clip pliers -- the topic that started this. I was working on the drivers side CV joint/boot on the wheel hub side. I disconnected all the CV bolts and pulled back the joint but COULD NOT get at the c clip on the end of the axel. After something like 3-4 hours, I used a variety of tools to get the clip off, only to find that I was UNABLE to get the joint off the axel. Ugh. After the help of the guys above, figured out I needed to take the axel off. This leads me back to the first point -- just take off the axel. It's much easier to take the c clip off on the transmission box side...

Yup, correct on all counts. Also, if taking the engine and transmission out together, tie up the axles so they are supported and not hanging free and putting weight on the wheel side boot flanges. I also found that even with the axles off, some of the CVs are stubborn and don't want to slide off the axle ends………I persuade them with a rubber mallet instead of a gear puller. Seems to work well without creating any damage.

yelcab1 · 09-26-2016, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 997at

...the axles off, some of the CVs are stubborn and don't want to slide off the axle ends………I persuade them with a rubber mallet instead of a gear puller. Seems to work well without creating any damage.

This is a job for an air chisel with a blunt end. Comes off in 10 seconds.

tito911s · 09-28-2016, 05:33 PM

Had a dumb moment and mixed up ft lbs and nm on my torque wrench. Figured it out too late after over torquing 3-4 CV bolts. I will probably need to figure out how to get them off or find a mechanic who is better than me at drilling out/backing off stripped bolts.

Stupid but fixable although serious PITA.

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KTL · 09-29-2016, 09:30 AM

C-clips without holes in the ends for plier tips can be hard to get off. I use a couple of blunted flat blade screwdrivers to spread the ends and try not to jag myself in the hand as I shove the clip out of the groove

Then I discovered pliers actually designed to work on these hole-less clips

good luck drilling out those CV joint bolts. 12.9 class screws are hardened and drilling them is SLOW progress.