The one our host sells, The HI-Torque Starter: PEL-GE-STHT

Needs to be re-clocked to fit properly and not hit the chassis.

Do the math again, it's not correct. Feel free to show your work... :D

JR

Don't dismiss the all of the advice on moving to 15 inch wheels.

Years ago I ran 225/245/16 Hoosiers on 8/9X16 Fuchs and when I moved to the 15 inch setup it transformed the car!

You can certainly drive to events on R compound tires...normal street driving has minimal effect on tire wear.

What tires did you move to on the 15"s?

Forgot to mention I did the math from 17"s to 16"s. The number moving to 15"s is bigger

Thanks!!!!

I've spent the last four years building my car to smash cones. Website is in the sig. I built to SCCA STR rules, which looks like you don't need to follow.

Cliffs notes:

- Driver is far and away #1. You may thing you're good, I'd be willing to wager you are leaving seconds on the table in driver alone. Here's a ride along with Billy Davis, the guy who has won top PAX at SCCA National Championships - aka the fastest driver in the country with their time adjusted for car class. Are you getting as close as he is to the cones that matter? If not, you're leaving time out there.

I'd also ignore anyone suggesting 15" wheels, at least if you plan on staying with RE71s or Rival S. I tried the 225/15 Rival S and while the better thrust was nice, the loss in cornering was more than enough to offset any gains over 17s. This was back to back, real testing, at two different National SCCA events. Rumor is 245-15s are coming out next year in the sticky tires since the Maxxis VR-1 sold so well in that size. Might flip the tables, who knows.

I'd be happy to share any of my experience with you, I've probably taken 500 runs in my car. Judging by your photos I'd raise your car a bit and add some more static negative camber all around. I'd bet dollars to donuts you're on your bumpstops.

Still my favorite photo of my car:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B.../mluckow-3.jpg

Oh hell I just realized you're not on RE-71.

Forget everything, get either the Rival S or the RE71r and you'll get at least two seconds right there.

I personally prefer the BFG on the 911 as they're a little more forgiving of slip angle. The RE71 have an ever so slightly higher peak grip, but the range is narrower which makes them harder to drive. The 911 is a handful that's really tough to keep happy, the slight safety net of the BFG will be faster more consistently.

Oh, I'll readily admit I HAVE to be leaving seconds on the table from my driving. I'm not cocky, but I fear I came off that way. I just don't like the "learn to drive" argument. The problem is multi-faceted. The original post intent should have been "how do I modify the car to catch up to my friend disregarding my need for further skill development"

Thanks on the "stick with the 17"s". I'm not disregarding them, but I think they're assuming I'm switching to R compounds... and yeah, as far as I know RE71R's are god mode until further notice.

I think static negative camber is in the cards as Steve W. has mentioned. I'll be dialing in to that spec. I'll have them raise the car I think too. I'll just have them reindex it anyways so they'll tell me. I don't want to pretend to know how best to set up ride height and corner balance. I'll be paying for the service anyways.

Yes, lol. I need better tires :P I'm smoking mine on braking and many corners

Interesting about the BFG......Hadn't heard glowing reviews of them yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsJZzfCKm28

Feel free to judge my driving. There is a lot of time out there to gain from improving my driving.... and tires. I welcome all advice, tips, or open ridicule.

Those tires are hockey pucks and belong in a dumpster. That is a very simple AX course so hard to judge driving skill but as long a Patrick long can beat you in your own car there is time left on the table that costs way less to harvest than shiny parts.

New 15" wheels with fresh 200tw rubber
Pro suspension setup and corner balance (significant $$ and worth every penny)
4 days with a top driver in your right seat

5-6 seconds on that course. Good luck!

change to a 7 31 ring and pinion and whatever the other guys are saying.
Be ready for the next season

Actually from that video your driving looks pretty good. Looks like you could get on the gas earlier in several spots and push a little harder, but that's all I can really tell without being there. Car looks like it pulls harder than mine, and appears more stable as well.

Do the tires, get the seat time, have fun, enjoy the car. Anything you do beyond that is diminishing returns imho, especially on an appreciating classic.

lighter bumpers help in more than just weigh reduction, they also reduce the polar moment the car will turn better and quicker.

reducing weight at the ends of the car and reducing rotating unsprung weight are some of the most effective weight reduction steps.

Is there a UTQG spec for your group?

Join a karting race club over the winter. You'll hit the ground running in the spring.

Is that front AND rear tire in the air? :-D

Had a little help from a bump.

This was a particularly nasty bump in Pittsburgh:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D...ace16_-033.jpg

Check out the rear left tire:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...ace16_-006.jpg

That's on 36mm rear torsions - which are twice as stiff as 30mm ones. So a LOT of force was going on there. Not normal cornering attitude, but photographers know a good opportunity when they see one.