Can Central Lock actuators be used for keyless entry with central lock disabled?

[cabmandone]

I removed most of the parts of my old central lock system because the micro switches in the doors were bad. I have been thinking about installing a remote keyless entry to the car and just connecting to the wire for the actuators. Has anyone done this? I have found threads where it was done with a functioning central lock system but now with a system partially disabled. Any help would be appreciated.

[DRACO A5OG]

You should be able to by just directly connecting from the module to the actuators on each side. Some systems even have dual use mode where on the driver side is activated then if you press the second time passenger side will activate. I would prefer this but mine is connected the the central control unit.

[cabmandone]

I was thinking I should be able to identify the wires from the actuator and connect them to the new control module. I might have my winter project lined up.

[49willard]

If you go ahead and set up a keyless system would you please post your method,results. I would like to consider the same. My 86 Cab is also white.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by 49willard

If you go ahead and set up a keyless system would you please post your method,results. I would like to consider the same. My 86 Cab is also white.

I'll do some research on the control module and let you know if I get everything working with a full write up.

[49willard]

That would be great! thanks

I installed a keyless entry system in my 1949 Ford pickup last year, a totally different exercise that the Porsche. In that case you start with nothing. Making it also work with the key was the challenge!

[SpyderMike]

Right there with you...backdating my 1985 and changing outer door handles to chrome. I am looking for a nice simple keyless locking system using the car's existing solenoid.

[SpyderMike]

After hours of part time research I am going to try the Avital 2101L system. $30 Amazon Prime. Decent instructions online and pretty capable box. The parent company owns Viper, Python, Clifford, etc..

I might hook up the progressive lock feature and the horn chirp.

[SpyderMike]

So here is what you get for $30 delivered:



Two smallish fobs, the unit, the main harnes (about 2.5 foot long) and harnesses for valet and LED indicator. Also included are the installation and operating guides.

I opened the control box up and it looks nicely made inside...

[bigel]

Interesting...where will you mount the control box?

[SpyderMike]

I am thinking here:



The original control relay was further right up behind the brake booster and nearer the dash. Hopefully with this new harness I can reach the old driver's side door connector. This location, on a removable cover, will allow me to gain access to it easily. I am thinking about putting the status LED and valet switch next to it (maybe with them poking into the cockpit - not sure). I need to find my old harness and see what that allows me (although I don't mind hack it up if I have to).

[cabmandone]

I just remembered when I was prepping my car for paint that I removed the actuators from inside the doors. I also remembered that I had to replace the door latches and I'm not sure the actuators will work with the new latches. I'll have some work to get mine up and going but it looks like SpyderMike has jumped in head first! Great job and keep us posted on how you do things.

[SpyderMike]

Thanks. I need to get the mating wiring from a box in storage Tuesday and then will tackle it. I want to use the original round connectors in the car. I will probably just flip the harness as teh control box will now be more towards the passenger's side when the original relay was on the driver's side.
cabmando, they sell new actuators on Amazon that are pretty flexible in their mounting and attachment. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/High-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator/dp/B0088YE6YQ

[SpyderMike]

Today I did the preliminary install of the keyless door lock system and got it working. The chrome handles I have do not have the door lock micro switches in them so I needed a way to lock the doors and I wanted a remote keyless entry. I found this system on Amazon for $30.

With a little experimentation I figured out that the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, when powered with +12VDC and the Green/Red wire grounded powers the actuator to lock the door. When you put +12VDC on the Green/Red wire and ground the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, then the actuator is powered to unlock the doors. The other connections for the internal switch of the actuator must just report the position back to the control module. I will not be using those.

The implementation of a modern remote keyless entry module was real easy given this. I just put +12VDC on the main input (red wire) to the control module and the Violet and Violet/Black wires that are listed as #87 Normally Open (Input). I grounded the control module black ground wire along with the White/Black and Brown/Black wires that are listed as #87A Normally Closed. I then connected the Blue/Black wire from the module to the Green/Red wire at the actuator and then the Green/Black wire from the module to the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator.

The control module has both Green/Black and Blue/Black wires to the actuator rest at ground when not in use. When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote, the control module puts +12VDC on the appropriate wire (Green/Black or Blue/Black) to move the actuator the appropriate direction. It then grounds both wires again after about a second.

The control module is so light that I just used velcro to attach it. The valet switch and red flashing LED are hooked up but not located. I may not even keep these features. I don't see any benefit. The valet button is used for programming higher level functions. The red LED flashes brightly when the doors are locked.

I have not done my final wiring bundle as I might implement the horn honk feature. I want to make sure I am in the final configuration before I cut the unused wires and shorten all of the three runs to the final lengths and routing (power, ground and actuator runs).

I put the power to position 17 of my fuse box for constant power and fused it at 15amps. The ground will go where the wiper control module is attached right above the fuse box. I reused the original harness for the door lock system but cut off several branches that went to power, ground and the old original control module. The original control module was located on the driver's side. I wanted my new one on the other side of the car, so I flipped the harness. The actuator power and ground wires are daisy chained in the original harness. They went from the original control module location behind the gauges to the driver's side door connector then to the passenger's side door connector. By flipping the harness, I had the wires to the original control module right near where I put the new one.

Not bad for $30.

[SpyderMike]

Here is the wiring hookup to the actuators: