Jeff, PM me your email address I'll send the doc

Here is how I did mine. BTW, nice job on your install Taxi.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486859793.jpg

I chose to mount my sensor in the tail pipe. Couldn't weld my heat exchangers (aluminized), and I didn't think there was room on the inlet of the muffler.
It works just fine on the outlet!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486859910.jpg

I then ran the sensor wire from the sensor up through the engine seal where the original fuel line ran.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860058.jpg

Then up and to the rear (actually front) of the engine compartment where the plug to the harness is. That wire runs down by the firewall following the fuel line. It then goes into the rear of the tunnel through an unused hole.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860298.jpg

Then out of the tunnel in the smuggler's box and up to the gauge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860398.jpg

Brilliant! But I'd mount it down closer to the dash.

I dread the thought of anything high up that you could bump your head on.

Gordon,

Be aware that I have seen first hand differences between a sensor near the tail pipe outlet and one in the collector. The tailpipe readings will read 0.5 to as much as 1.0 AFR leaner! I see this all the time when a dyno operator puts the senor in the tail pipe. I then ask for it to be moved and we see true AFR data. I suspect this is because some fresh air is introduced back into the muffler because of sound wave pulses. Kind of the same reason you can see fuel atomized and floating above a carburetor on a hi-performance motor, how does fuel actually get outside the carb if the motor is at full load? This pulse theory is also at play in the exhaust. I suggest you try moving the senor to the collector or you could weld a bung on the inlet to the muffler instead of the outlet and put a plug in the outlet bung. I warn you here because you may tune that motor incorrectly, with the sensor as placed now you will likely see a false lean reading. I bet you are running significantly richer than the gauge is telling you.

Never really cared for any option I have seen for mounting the gauges so I made my own to fit where the ash tray used to live. I covered it in vinyl that came very close to matching the existing knee pad.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914273.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914292.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914342.jpg

Thanks for the feedback. Actually, I am struggling with an overly rich situation at present. The reading on the gauge in the picture, was during warm up.
I am able to get around 12.5 - 13 to 1 at idle. Any leaner, it won't run.

The real issue is at cruise. I'm at 10.8 - 11.2 on the freeway.

I've come to the conclusion that it must be my emulsion tubes. My thinking is that the main jets are coming in too soon. Nothing I do to the idles makes any difference on the freeway. At full throttle it's 12.5 to 1.

Thanks for the advise.

Edit: I put a two foot long hose to extend the exhaust and it made no difference. So more experimenting to do.
Also the emulsion tubes were a bust. No change. So now it's time to frits with the idle air correctors. Bummer.

PM sent. Thanks, Al.

Thanks, Gordon. I constantly feel that my car and I are somewhat inferior to the many beautiful vehicles and smart minds on this forum, so I appreciate the compliment. Your engine compartment looks really clean.

Jeff

I'm in the midst of this same project this weekend. I will too be mounting it in the no op clock hole. made the retaining bezel today by hole sawing a nylon type cutting board and gluing the pieces together. the final front facing layer was a piece of plastic file divider thing I had laying around that worked nicely with the bit of texture it provided & being black. winning!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486943904.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486943926.jpg

will use the old clock rubber sleeve deal to retain the bezzle puck


went to a buddy of mines buddy's house last night for bung welding fun & games. here's our work on my SSIs. will only be monitoring one bank but went ahead and put them on both sides.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944186.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944217.jpg

Looks good nice TIG welding.......also smart to put bungs in on both sides while you are at it. Also smart to get it as close to the head as possible.

You could hook up a toggle switch to from one side to the other....OR you could put in one of these:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486952545.jpg

and it gathers data from both sides that you can play back later.

yes on as close as possible w/o having the sensor interfere with lower valve cover removal!:eek:

I was going off memory in placement on the circumference & went conservative, closer to 9 o'clock than noon.

just met the welder chopper-jim last night. great guy with a very set up shop in his garage where he makes his living doing Harley things. as an old VW guy he loved the fact I was going to carbs, so I had to promise him a ride when the motor's done...