![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 250
|
![]()
Wayne is getting me in trouble again. Armed with the 101 projects book, I replaced the rear shocks last weekend. Other then a stubborn bolt, was actually pretty easy. Noticed then that my outer CV boot was torn so ordered new ones last week (fast delivery Wayne! Ordered on Wednesday and got them on Friday). Trying to do the outer and inner on the right side at the same time. Managed to take the six bolts of the inner side (got lucky with normal hex bolts) but I can't seem to figure out where the bolts are on the outside. I have the picture in Wayne's book of the complete axle but I can't find any bolts like the text describes. Any help appriciated. Thanks
------------------ Harold 89 911 Targa 89&91 Saab 900 |
||
![]() |
|
RETIRED
|
![]()
Can't you pull the whole axle assembly? Take the big gland nut off the other side and push the stub axle through the hub.
Disassemble when on the bench....one bolt versus 6 while under the car.... [This message has been edited by mikez (edited 10-21-2001).] |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Brighton UK since 11/2012
Posts: 3,170
|
![]()
There aren't any outer bolts on your 911.
Take the axle out and remove the inner cv joint, then you can replace the inner and outer boots. Make sure you tighten the stub axle nut to torque. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 921
|
![]()
I am at the same point in disassembly.
Any tricks in taking off that big stub axle nut?? I have the car on the ground, in gear and emergency brake on. I took the center out of my wheel so I can reach the nut. Either there is some trick to this- or I need a longer breaker bar. Is the correct spec for this nut really 220-230 ft-lb? My biggest torque wrench goes to 150- I hope not to buy another torque wrench for this one bolt--is a 230lb wrench something a garage would have, or is that just as tight as a human can make it?? Thanks |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
|
![]()
you got the procedure correct. i slide my 4ft floor jack handle over the breaker bar. works good. they're bloody tight. same to install. i'm not buying a torque wrench for that either. you can twist the end off the breaker bar, so make sure you have a quality tool with a lifetime warranty.
[This message has been edited by john walker's workshop (edited 10-21-2001).] |
||
![]() |
|
RETIRED
|
![]()
My most favorite and oldest tool is a four foot long steel pipe. Goes over the end of the breaker bar.
Put the pipe over the end of the breaker bar, set it at 9 o'clock and jump on it....if it does not break loose, get a fat guy....8^) "I" don't do house calls... Sorry if I missed the inner CV bolt issue on the 915? My experience is limited to 901s....never had to pull my 915 or G-50 stuff yet....knock on wood.... |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 250
|
![]()
Thanks guys for the response. The book talked about working on the inner and outer bolts at the same time and that got me confused. I had no idea that I had to remove the big nut in the center of the wheel. The picture on page 115 is not close enough to notice thread on the end of the axle but with the post info and the picture on page 103, I finally figured it out. Probably will not have the chance to get to it today but I will try later this week. The torque info on some of the responses is really helpful too (not in the book). I guess I will need to get the Bentley one of these days. Really helpful for the work I do on the Saab 900. For the Saab it was only $40. Why is it $120 for the Porsche? Robert must think we can afford a more expensive book... At least got my extension for my breaker bar last weekend. Had a big problem with loosening the bolts on the lower end of the shocks. Got myself a 3ft 1" steel pipe for that job and that worked real well. Guess I will get to use it again on the axle nut. Thanks again for all the info.
------------------ Harold 89 911 Targa 89&91 Saab 900 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 921
|
![]()
I may give the neighborhood fat guy a call.
Thanks for the help and support--this board is great Gary |
||
![]() |
|
Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
|
![]()
Outer CV is welded on shaft. To replace outer CV, you must replace the shaft assy. as well.
When you try to get the big nut off, make sure you support the breaker bar extension with a block of wood, jack stand, pile of bricks, etc. Get a long enough cheater bar so you don't have to jump on it. Just bounce a little at the very end and it'll let go. After you break a few 1/2 in. drive extensions like I did, you'll need to move up to 3/4 in. drive. Hardened impact 1/2 in. failed as well. Upon reinstallation, torque the nut with your body weight placed at the correct location along your length of cheater pipe. 200 lb. guy pushing 2 ft. away from end of bar = 400 lb-ft. ------------------ Kevin 87 Carrera coupe |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Don't even think about using 1/2" drive tools on AXLE NUTS!!! Destroying good tools and wasting time chasing down the right tool will be the end result if you persist! Get either a sliding 'T-handle' or breaker bar in 3/4" drive ... put a pipe or floor-jack handle over the breaker bar and pull up for better control when the nut breaks loose ... hitting the ground suddenly if you are jumping/leaning on the pipe can be painful on concrete garage floor or driveway!
------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
|
![]()
my snapon 1/2" drive bar has survived numerous axle nuts, but it will break eventually, i'm sure. as far as pulling on the nut to break it loose, the 12 o'clock position is the best, because there's a lot of movement in the bar, just taking up the tension, that you would run out of good leverage angle using less of an angle of attack.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 250
|
![]()
Sorry to bring this one back up. I went to the bookstore on my way home to take a look in the Bentley. For my model year (89) the torque spec is actually 460 Nm!! How do you get to that? Just to tighten it as much as you can? Also, it suggest to remove the lower shock bolt so you can move the shock out of the way. Is this necessary to remove the axle? How hard is it to remove the axle once the axle nut is loose? Will it just slide out? Questions, questions, I know. Thanks in advance.
------------------ Harold 89 911 Targa 89&91 Saab 900 |
||
![]() |
|
i want one of those...
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: formerly a grass shack in Hawaii, now Peoria, AZ
Posts: 3,030
|
![]()
While on the topic of CV joint/halfshaft bolts, how do you take them out if the inside is stripped? I've tried vice grips, but it doesn't work. Any ideas? Thanks!
------------------ Jeff 1976 911S Coupe |
||
![]() |
|
Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
|
![]()
Harold,
460 Nm is around 340 lb-ft. If you weigh 170 lb like I do, you need to place your body weight/hands on the cheater bar at least 2 ft. away from the axle to get close to 340 lb-ft (170 lb X 2 ft = 340 lb-ft). If you weigh 220 lb, you only need to be 1.55 ft. from the axle (220 lb X 1.55 ft = 341 lb-ft). To do this, you NEED TO SUPPORT THE BAR PIVOT POINT WITH A BLOCK OF WOOD OR THE LIKE. Yes, it's not the most accurate method, but it beats buying some $400 torque wrench for a one-time usage. Worked for me and with a long enough cheater bar, you won't have to jump the bar. Just lean on the bar and let leverage take care of the rest. Jeff, If vise-grips won't work you could grind the head(s) off the bolts. The bolt is not threaded thru the CV housing so once you get the head off, the CV should slide off the stud. Might damage the CV or cause a vibration if you nick up the CV with the grinder. May have to replace the CV after you're done. Others may have more effective solutions. Stay tuned... ------------------ Kevin 87 Carrera coupe |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Just a quick note to say that most tool rental stores will have a 3/4" drive torque wrench available that you can rent for one day for $15-$20. It sure beats the 'guestimate' method, though I have done that many times myself, and have yet to have an axle nut come loose!
------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
|
![]()
on the stripped 8mm CV bolts, an 11mm, 12 point socket can be hammered over the bolt head. often gets them loose. the short,(1/4" long bit), spiral easyout sets are helpful sometimes. an airhammer w/chisel bit gets them turning, at the shop.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]()
Axle nut? Stop at the pawn shop and get a 3/4" break over with the corresponding sized socket. You will use the breaker bar again sometime.
I have delt with the cv bolts by placing a large nut over the head of the bolt and welding the nut to it. I have also been known to replace the bolts with grade 10 metric allen bolts from Catapiller. They have a good supply of them and are of excellent quality. Good luck, David Duffield |
||
![]() |
|