Could it be the green wire (co ax) into the distributor?
Its delicate and causes trouble.

Did you put any fuel conditioner in it before storage? Fuel goes bad in 60 days now. Try the ether thing.

No, no fuel conditioner and have never done that before. This is the first time in the 13+ years of ownership that the car has just not started.
I could be wrong swear when I would turn the key to the on position in the past I would hear the fuel pump and now I don't.
Haven't had a chance yet to check for spark.

Horse pucky.

Says who? Your Mom?

I have messed with old unleaded oxy fuel laden cars that have been sitting for years. I would have come across at least one that was crap fuel related. Not a one. Nada. Zip.

It does not turn to water. The car will still fire. Optimal? Prolly not. OP's problem, no.

Do you mean the T plug with the red and brown wires? if so, that's the power to the CDI box so it definitely won't start now!

Gotta love experience. Thank you.

[QUOTE=Bob Kontak;9553199]Horse pucky.

Says who? Your Mom?

[/QUOTE

Actually, chemists have told me this. Mom is not a chemist.

I tested the coil with a multimeter and both tests seemed to be in spec. Hopefully I will test for spark tonight or tomorrow.

Yes but have since plugged back in. It was not disconnected initially, I only unplugged to trouble shoot.
If that's power to Cdi, why is it that fuel pump does not run now when ign is in the on position but it does when I unplug the cdi?

Was having issues getting the battery charged, found out it was bad. Will be replacing this weekend and trying to confirm spark.

I got the car to start with the new battery.
Car will run if I hold a 1k rpm idle. If I talk my foot off idle drops to 250 surges then dies.

Now that it runs, double check the timing. If that's in spec, your next step is to check for air leaks and test the fuel pressures--either of which can account for your current problem.

I'm leaning toward air leaks. As I pulled the intercooler and turbo plumbing to install the block off plates.

Doesn't really matter which you check first as you're trying to eliminate areas of concern. If air leaks seem more likely, check for those first and, naturally, if that doesn't fix things, move on to fuel mixture. Be sure, however, that your ignition is up to spec before moving on to air leaks.

Bob,
Ronnie will confrim that your friends pumps should not run when the car is not running. Common issue with 930s. Generally the yellow relay has bad contacts either inside it, or with the pins into the socket.
Then once that starts happening, often the pumps don't run at all, or intermittently, causing no start, or poor running. Been there, done that and Ronnie pointed this out to me when I mentioned my pumps ran before the car was running.

To the OP, this needs to be addressed now that you have eliminated spark issues with a new battery. Sounds like it gets starved of fuel and then dies, which could be caused by this circuit being faulty.

So I started the car and it fired right up. Held idle at 1100 for a couple minutes and then idle slowly decreased over time til it died.

With CIS on a 930 you need gauges. CIS is all about fuel pressure.

Agree^^.

Your new information about slowly dying while trying to hold idle is a bit different than the one about the surging. If it were me, I'd run the fuel pressure tests before the air leaks. Gauges are your friend and will get the fuel delivery question out of the way if you also check fuel delivery volume as well.

Maybe something to do with the timed 'run on' circuit in the Turbo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/887832-89-930-runs-after-shutting-off-ignition-switch.html

Have you checked to see if you have 12V at the WUR? If your WUR isn't warming up, that could cause exactly what you describe here at the engine warms up, but the fuel pressures don't change. Does it smell rich when it dies?

And agreed with the above that knowing your fuel pressures and your AFR's is imperative for CIS troubleshooting.