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I'm torn…

I just noticed that the rear passenger outboard CV boot is torn. I suspect this is very recent as the car has been at three reputable shops in the past 7 mos for various work and there has been no mention of it: trans rebuild, starter issue and general look over and oil line change (near thermostat). Unfortunately, driving time has been lacking.

I've had the car up and down a few times recently in my garage which may have caused the tear.



I want to ask the collective two questions:

Can I replace just this CV with Pelican's recommended unit? It appears different at the flange which has a clamp.

Pelican CV Joint Boot Kit PELCV911B3 - Graf - PEL-CV911B3 | Pelican Parts

Is it mandatory (or stupid not to) to have all CV boot units the same?

Thanks!



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1987 Marine Blue 930
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:19 PM
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Yes but it is a dirty nasty job. Clean and repack with proper grease after removing the axle. Easiest way is to buy a complete axle with new CVs. Slap it in, 1 hour later you are ready to go.

Clean up that one up and keep for a spare. Costs a few bucks more but saves you labor.

Eric at PMB Performance can set you up.
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:28 PM
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I recently started a thread on this topic.
Drive Shaft. Do they ever get replaced? Or break?

GKN LOEBRO is the OEM.
The consensus seemed to be to just replace the entire axle for ease.

If you need a helper for this job, let me know.


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Last edited by sugarwood; 05-13-2017 at 02:33 PM..
Old 05-13-2017, 02:30 PM
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This ^^^

This is an example of a truly awesome reply post (complete with Natalie I.) Thank you Sugarwood.
Old 05-13-2017, 02:44 PM
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Will/Oldspool - the Loebro boots are garbage (many accounts of them only lasting a couple of years) - check Jim Fairman's recent thread in the Turbo forum for the much better, Empi alternative.
Old 05-13-2017, 04:00 PM
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You may have thrown a clamp there too unless you removed it to inspect the tear before this photo was taken.

Mine cracked at the crease where it was done from age - yours looks like a significant tear.
Surprised it didn't throw more grease around.
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:03 PM
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check this post:
CV joint boot upgrade
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
Will/Oldspool - the Loebro boots are garbage (many accounts of them only lasting a couple of years) - check Jim Fairman's recent thread in the Turbo forum for the much better, Empi alternative.
The replacement boots were paper thin.
A few people confirmed theirs tore within a few months.
That's BS for a simple rubber part.
I can't recall what the resolution was.
Cheap boots are crap.
OEM boots are $50.

Post #10 is justification to just replace the entire axle for $250.
CV boots torn already
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steely View Post
You may have thrown a clamp there too unless you removed it to inspect the tear before this photo was taken.

Mine cracked at the crease where it was done from age - yours looks like a significant tear.
Surprised it didn't throw more grease around.


I don't think I threw a clamp. Here's a pick of the other side:



I hate to replace a stupid rubber boot with a complete new axle assembly though I do see the some of the advantages to this approach.

Sugarwood- thanks for the offer to help out and for the links PM'd. And special thanks for the Natalie Imbruglia. I added it to my workout playlist for leg days.


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Old 05-13-2017, 05:48 PM
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If you look at the other thread I linked, I asked the same question I have now.
How does the factory boot stay attached without a clamp?
Everyone said you replace it by using a clamp, which makes no sense to me.
Does the boot get tucked in (as pictured above) or does it go on the outside with a clamp?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
The clamp seems like a jerry rig, since the OEM does not have a clamp.
There is a channel the boot sits inside, and that channel is crushed in places.

To use a clamp, I guess you'd have to put the boot over the outside of the channel part.
I guess it can work, but that's not how the OEM stuff was assembled.

See here how the outside of the boot is tucked in, and not pulled over.


With a clamp. DIY ?
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Last edited by sugarwood; 05-13-2017 at 07:46 PM..
Old 05-13-2017, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSpool87 View Post
I don't think I threw a clamp.....
Looks like both outer clips/clamps are missing.
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Old 05-13-2017, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSpool87 View Post
I hate to replace a stupid rubber boot with a complete new axle assembly though I do see the some of the advantages to this approach.
I would just get the EMPI boots and regrease the joint.
Not sure why everyone made a big fuss about that.
It's really not a big deal. Wear gloves and use a newspaper.

You might enjoy seeing how the Rzeppa CV joint works with those planetary ball bearings or whatever they're called.
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Old 05-13-2017, 07:51 PM
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I think I used the Loebro ones sold here on Pelican when I replaced my CV boots about 10 years (and probably 35K miles) ago. I was too cheap to replace the whole axle assembly (turbo axles were $500 each back then). But I figured that if I was going to go to the effort and mess to replace one, I might as well replace all 4. PITA and a small mess (use paper towels and rubber gloves liberally), but if I could do it in about 4-6 hours, just about anyone else can. They still look good today.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:11 PM
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The Empi boot with flange seems to be my best alternative other than full axle assembly. If I did the axle I would want to do both which really starts to add up $$.

Decided to go with he Empi kit from Pelican. I'll have some spares for a rainy day.

Thanks for all the responses.

Will


Last edited by OldSpool87; 05-14-2017 at 05:06 AM..
Old 05-14-2017, 04:26 AM
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