Clueless QOTD: How do you Dremel off a nut?

[sugarwood]

I am not touching my exhaust stud nuts (sleeping dogs)
But, for several years, I have wished someone could answer this question.

I know using a Torch is the best way.
However, I want to know how you would cut this nut with a Dremel.
People always post like this step is trivial, but it seems mathematically impossible to me.

Do you cut wheel parallel to the nut? (green line)
No, this makes no sense.

How is it possible to cut perpendicular? (white lines)
It will hit into the header flange and the stud itself.

I do not see how the green wheel can cut into the red bolt
b/c the mating surface will get in the way

[gomezoneill]

Cut the side of the nut with a small bit do not go all the way through then use a small sharp chisel to break the nut apart.

[ChrisBennet]

The Dremel is the wrong tool for this job my friend. The Blue Wrench aka torch will make quick work of this. I doesn't work as good as "real" torch but a MAPP gas torch will work. Heat it and then hit it with penetrating oil and heat it again. The expansion, cooling, expansion will break the nut free.

There is no shame in going to your mechanic or muffler shop and having them remove those nuts and put on some new ones temporarily so you can drive home. Mechanics remove stubborn fasteners all day long. Make sure they don't crush your oil lines !!!! I can't stress that enough. If you haven't gone there before, ask the service manager if they know about the oil lines near the jack points.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by gomezoneill

Cut the side of the nut with a small bit do not go all the way through then use a small sharp chisel to break the nut apart.

Grind the outer side of the nut. The axis of the grinding tool or Dremel parallel to the axis of the bolt. Stop before you reach the pitch thread and try to turn the nut. It could be loose already because of the heat produced during grinding. Do it stage by stage to prevent over grinding. Try to use heat and penetrating oil before cutting or grinding. The nut does not look too bad at all.

Tony

[porsche930dude]

I would cut it on a diagonal and just get as much as possible. wire brush the threads clean and try to back it off. or some chizel if its stripped too much. Heat if you can. It seems every situation calls for different tools there is no one answer.

[island911]

Originally Posted by ChrisBennet

The Dremel is the wrong tool for this job my friend. .

Wrong!? C'mon; tis just another method.

To the OP. - Carbide tip start cut aligned with the bolt axis, stopping short of the threads. A small chisel or even flat-blade screw diver to drive the rest open.

[island911]

From Duck food ...

[sugarwood]

LOL, how I wish I knew someone who could just show me this stuff in person.
I've tried several times to get to the bottom of this and have gotten nowhere each time.

Originally Posted by gomezoneill

Cut the side of the nut with a small bit do not go all the way through then use a small sharp chisel to break the nut apart.

What is a "small bit"?
So, you're saying when you Dremel a nut, you don't actually split it in half by cutting?
You just cut a notch and then hammer it to turn?

Is the goal of a Dremel to cut the nut into two halves or to spin it off one chisel hit at a time?

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Grind the outer side of the cut. The axis of the grinding tool or Dremel parallel to the axis of the bolt. Stop before you reach the pitch thread and try to turn the nut. It could be loose already because of the heat produced during grinding. Do it stage by stage to prevent over grinding. Try to use heat and penetrating oil before cutting or grinding. The nut does not look too bad at all.
Tony

I don't understand what you're saying.
You're saying slice the nut as if I put it into a bagel slicer?
I do not understand what this accomplishes.
If one is resorting to a Dremel, it is assumed the nut is stripped.
Slicing one layer at a time (all the way around) seems like it would take hours.

Originally Posted by porsche930dude

I would cut it on a diagonal and just get as much as possible. wire brush the threads clean and try to back it off. or some chizel if its stripped too much. Heat if you can. It seems every situation calls for different tools there is no one answer.

You cut a diagonal notch and then try to remove the nut?
If one is resorting to a Dremel, it is assumed the nut is stripped.
So, I don't understand how your method would work.
Just because there is a notch, the nut is still stripped.

[zedsn]

+1 boyt911sc

[island911]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

What is a "small bit"?
So, you're saying when you Dremel a nut, you don't actually split it in half by cutting?
You just cut a notch and then hammer it to turn?....

"small bit" https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Round/dp/B00QZOIMYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494782900&sr=1-1&keywords=carbide+dremel

The idea is you start the cut with the dremel (on one side) and then hammer it to open. -- The cut area will tear open.

[boyt911sc]

Sugarwood,

I have read your many of your posts. You are indeed an intelligent individual but stubborn to open your mind to accept suggestions. Yet, you kept asking suggestions and opinions regularly in this forum. Look and review the topics. They were good and interesting topics. Smart and inteligent subject matters too. I have been impressed with your threads so far. Just my two cents.

Tony

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by island911

"small bit" https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Round/dp/B00QZOIMYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494782900&sr=1-1&keywords=carbide+dremel

The idea is you start the cut with the dremel (on one side) and then hammer it to open. -- The cut area will tear open.

Ok, so the big idea is not to cleanly have 2 halves effortlessly fall away from the stud.
The common practice is to cut a groove into the nut, and then hammer chisel that thing apart. Does this only work for smaller nuts?

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Sugarwood,

I have read your many of your posts. You are indeed an intelligent individual but stubborn to open your mind to accept suggestions. Yet, you kept asking suggestions and opinions regularly in this forum. Look and review the topics. They were good and interesting topics. Smart and inteligent subject matters too. I have been impressed with your threads so far. Just my two cents.

Tony

The problem is that I did not understand your suggestion. You are saying to slice tht nut into many thin rings? This did not make sense to me. In addition, most times you will not have 360 degree access that your method requires to slice the nut into a half dozen washers

[gtc]

Those bits are great. One of the few dremel bits that are actually useful,
in my opinion, since they don't immediately break or wear out like most.

Originally Posted by island911

"small bit" https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Round/dp/B00QZOIMYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494782900&sr=1-1&keywords=carbide+dremel

The idea is you start the cut with the dremel (on one side) and then hammer it to open. -- The cut area will tear open.

[zedsn]

We have to do this to large and small nuts at work quite often. I work at a wastewater treatment plant with wet conditions all of the time. I have used a small dremel with thin cutting wheel as well as a 4" grinder with thin cutting wheel as well. You slice off the flat area where you can get to it but be careful to not cut into the threads then take a hammer and chisel and wack on the slicked area and the nut will split and then be able to unscrew with vise grips or wrench. Sometimes with the amount of heat generated with the slice the nut will be expanded enough that it can be removed without the final cut with the chisel.

[merlinfe]

Honestly the best way to figure all of this out is with hands on experience. Figure out what works for YOU and do that thing.

-Steve

[Puma]

Threads like this make me think "I wish people would draw a picture to illustrate their points and methods". Lots of confusion would be avoided.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by zedsn

We have to do this to large and small nuts at work quite often. I work at a wastewater treatment plant with wet conditions all of the time. I have used a small dremel with thin cutting wheel as well as a 4" grinder with thin cutting wheel as well. You slice off the flat area where you can get to it but be careful to not cut into the threads then take a hammer and chisel and wack on the slicked area and the nut will split and then be able to unscrew with vise grips or wrench. Sometimes with the amount of heat generated with the slice the nut will be expanded enough that it can be removed without the final cut with the chisel.

Ok, another vote for prying apart the nut

[dad911]

Originally Posted by Puma

Threads like this make me think "I wish people would draw a picture to illustrate their points and methods". Lots of confusion would be avoided.

How to to anything&everything is already on you-tube.

https://youtu.be/GeowC321TPA

I prefer to do it like this when possible. Cut alongside the bolt, through the nut, to relieve pressure. Battery powered sawzall for less sparks if it fits, otherwise break out the dremel/grinder.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

The problem is that I did not understand your suggestion. You are saying to slice tht nut into many thin rings? This did not make sense to me. In addition, most times you will not have 360 degree access that your method requires to slice the nut into a half dozen washers

Sugarwood,

Read my post #4. Never did I say or mention 'slice the nut into many thing rings'. I used the word grind. You have a tendency to not comprehend or visualize what people say. GRIND not SLICE. Wait till you get involve in engine rebuilding if this simple procedure of removing stubborn nut is a challenge for you.

Tony