I use NGK plugs in my SC, and we've all probably seen the NGK tech bulletin that states to put them in dry. I put them in dry. I start by using a piece of rubber fuel hose about 8" long that I slip over the plug insulator. Then I hand thread the plug into the engine head using the fuel line. Get it hand tight down to the base and then apply the amount of rotation found on the NGK spark plug box with a ratchet. Something like 180-240 degrees off the top of my head. It's easy to determine a pair of 90 degree rotations with a ratchet.

For what it's worth, I also maintain a fleet of Subaru's with the 2.5 EJ engines. NGK plugs (spec) in aluminum heads on those as well. The Subaru Factory Manual specs 15 ft. lbs. torque on the plugs----dry-----and if using a "lubricant" to "reduce torque by 1/3 to prevent over-tightening."

Trakrat. I had a plug come loose with a pop, pop, popping and damage the threads on #6 when it did. it cost me a top end with a time cert at 161K. Not sure how it came loose because I am very careful with tightening those plugs but it did. You can bet you azz I torque wrench each and every one of them buggers very carefully now. Factory tool with a torque wrench, that's the ticket.

Did you use anti-seize or was it dry?

Just remember to check to see if your rubber boot insert is still in the tool when you pull it off the spark plug.

I panicked when I didn't see it on there and had to put it back on a couple of them to work it back into the Porsche tool.

It's not an allen socket that my Porsche tool uses... it's more like a 10 point star (I didn't actually count all the points) connection of some sort. Because of all the small points, torqueing it might damage it.


As for 22lbs.... it DOES seem like a lot. I found a torque wrench that I had to buy (the only 2 I have start at 25lb setting).... tried it and turned it so tight that it still didn't 'click'... Not sure if I even trust my tq wrench I bought (a cheapie at an auto parts store). SO I backed it out... I wish there was some way to verify that my tq wrench is working correctly.

Probably a triple-square bit required.

They are very robust. You probably have them on the door striker receiver on the body side of the door sill. I think those are 8MM.

O'Rielly's and Advance Auto have them. A set of four maybe for under $15.

Trakart.... the 12 point is actually same as allen
That is most likely from 993 tool kit ..
this one right?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...WjYOVH_yocsfyw

I had a plug pop out, to my considerable surprise on the front right cylinder of the 911 earlier this summer. I guess the PO didn't have them in there quite tight enough, and over the ensuing 10k miles that one just unscrewed itself. Fortunately the threads were find and I was in a location that made it easy for me to address the problem. Obviously I'm checking the other five.

Yes.. it looks like that... here is a pic of mine...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1499809383.jpg

yup it is from 964 kit..
Ivan

Dry.

I wish someone made a small size torque wrench for 5-50lbs/ft for tight areas.

Trying to turn my torque wrench on those spark plugs is tough due to the amount of movement it takes to click each tooth on the wrench to turn it. hardly any room with the fuel rails in the way.

I do have a question though regarding spark plugs.....

Copper or Platinum? What's the pros/cons of each??

I installed the Bosch plugs that came with the maintenance kit on our host's site. I believe they are copper. I'm also installing Magnacore wires onto them.... but had a second thought that perhaps I should of gotten a better, higher performing spark plug set?