My observations with changing spark plugs
 

I've noticed some interesting issues when changing spark plugs...
It seems that you have to kind of 'guess' where the spark plug hole is. And if you aren't nearly 100% accurate at finding it, you risk shoving grime and dirt onto the spark contact points... or even bending the spark plug just enough that the gap measurement changes when hitting it against something.

As for torqueing it... I don't have a torque wrench that would properly fit, so I just hand tighten it, then use the Porsche tool kit wrench to turn it a bit tighter until it catches.

Basically, gauging the same amount of strength to take it off would be needed to put it on.... anyone have any other ideas as to guessing the amount of torque needed?

I don't want to overtighten it... but also think it needs a bit more than just hand tightening it by turning the socket my hand.

I tend to undertighten and occasionally have one come loose.

I'm not fond of ripping threads out of aluminum.

yikes... how do you find out when it comes loose? is this by taking them off and finding it came out easier than expected? Or do you mean that the plug worked its way completely off the threads through vibrations and such???

There are lots of threads and tech. info. on tightening spark plugs. I've never torqued and never found one loose later. The washer is sort of a crush type so you really just go slightly past its crush point. Not really technical but its always worked, and I also use very light anti-seize.
If you use the factory tool in your tool-bag, you can guide the plug to the female hole pretty nicely without much bumping around and start it by hand every time. Tighten using the same tool which doesn't allow much leverage, don't brace up and gorilla the thing. You will not strip that many threads using the short handled factory tool. Shouldn't be much dirt or grime in the hole if you're plug wires are of the stock type where the top is shielded.

So... I was thinking about doing this too... any other older car I've had, always used anti seize from the tube on the threads of the spark plugs.

But was reading that a lot of people (including some popular books) state to NOT use anti-seize.

What gives?? why would this be a concern? I've always just used my finger to put a small dab onto all of the threads and wipe away the excess. Is there a major concern with anti-seize that I'm missing in our P cars???

The should be a little tougher taking out then putting in.

18-22 ft lbs after Nm to ft lb conversion from the little SC spec book.

Just a tiny bit of oomph.

Silver plated plugs do not require anti-seize.

Torquing to spec with anti-seize may result with pulled threads.

Found through pulling them to check. They're not flapping around, just loose.

Due to removing friction, you're essentially over-torquing.

I think the NO ANTI-SEIZE thing is because people can be waaaay to generous using the stuff and then it gets everywhere it doesn't need to be. I understand that spark plug thread area is plated nicely so supposed to not need help. Like you state, I use only a tiny amount and try to be exceptionally careful. Wipe off all but a dab between a few threads. It is not a problem, just something we obsessive types like to do.

Hi boys..for spark plugs i have never use a torque wrench..there is no need to.As said above the crush ring is the sign it is tight.
also i use Wurth hhs 2000 for all lubrication places on 911...spark plugs ,omega spring, door stops and e.t.c. it is an excellent lubricant
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ehMAA...ori/s-l300.jpg

Using an 85' as an example; spark plug gap: 0.7 - 0.8 mm (0.028 - 0.032 in). Spark plug to cylinder head: 30 Nm (22 ft-lb)

+1 Putting them in dry is nonsense IMO.

I noticed the last set of NGKs I bought had a different type of washer. Not sure I like it. I torqued them like always. Tighten until the washer stops compressing then a scotch more. Later when I pulled a couple they did not seem very tight.

This stuff looks sweet. Thanks proporsche.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLR6pJR2AgY

You can use a torque wrench with the tool kit wrench with a 10mm (?) allen socket instead of the L shaped allen wrench in the toolkit.

22 ft. lbs. feels like alot of torque to me, but I put my faith in the numbers. In the past when I torqued them by hand to a point that felt right, they were a bit loose when removing them.

Odd that the SC/Turbo 3.3 spec book would state a range of 18-22 but the 85 3.2 is 22 ft lbs without a range. Heads did not change that much. Maybe there was a loosening problem?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1499724431.jpg

I'ld use some anti-seize instead of the HHS, Champion used to sell little bottles, I still have one. Just a dab to facilitate removal. They discontinued the recommendation because it contaminates the cats.

Well, y'all can ignore the warnings of using anti-seize, torquing to spec, and ripping your threads out of your heads.

Not my problem....

I is almost always hard to take mine off and I've seen plug flew out while driving, on non-porsche, and also so I always careful about this.
This tool, my buddy got it for me makes it a lot easier, and yes, I can torque my plugs to torque spec.
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/513474_x800.jpg

I love the factory tool! It works better than anything else I've tried over the years!