Looking for feedback from QuickJack users

[Ctopher]

Originally Posted by tirwin

One thing worth noting. I wonder how many QuickJack users also have A/C? It seems that the placement of A/C and oil lines makes choosing good lift points a bit more of a challenge.

I have the smaller of the 5000lb QJ and have used it on my 87 G50 with AC and I did have a bit of trouble lining everything up. I used the front pinch weld along with the rear jacking point on the car. On the drivers side the front AC line was just slightly in the way and I had to tilt the rubber block prior to jacking to get it around the AC line, otherwise it would pinch if I just came straight up. I had similar issue on the passenger side with the oil lines which I had to make sure the rubber blocks were just slightly inside more than the drivers side to clear the lines.

[tirwin]

After bringing the QJ home from my buddy's house, it was time to get back to work on my '83.

I wasn't thrilled with my first experiment with lifting the '83 so I decided to spend some time experimenting with the best setup. I probably spent 45 minutes to an hour yesterday trying different combinations until I think I got it right.

I made two mistakes the first time I lifted the 911. First, I had the ramps oriented the wrong way for the 911. Mark's advice here was spot on -- I just forgot it in my excitement.

The second mistake was I had the ramps a little too far inboard.

Here's what I found works well:

1) Start by placing the "front" of the ramp against the rear wheel as a guide for the starting point. Then move the ramp inboard until it clears the inside of the wheel.

2) Align the front tire end of the ramp so that it will clear the inside of the front wheel. The hinge at the end should have room to pass by the inside of the rear tire as the ramp is raised.

3) Try to keep both ramps as close to parallel to each other as possible.

4) I use a combination of the tall blocks and "Small Universal Slotted Polyurethane Jack Pad Frame Protector" (Amazon.com).

5) For anyone with A/C lines, I only had an issue at the front left wheel. There are 2 clamps that hold that line in place by the pinch weld. Use an 8mm socket to take them off and you can move the A/C line out of the way.

Right rear jack point. Not using the "slot" of the hockey puck here. It's just aligned right centered on the torsion tube.


Right front jack point. The slotted jack pad "hockey puck" is sitting right on the pinch weld.


This proved to be a much more stable setup than my first attempt.

With this setup, here is the total lift height:

31" to the top of the bumperette.


~22-1/4" to the bottom of the bumper skirt.


Pic with the tape measure to the floor for perspective. Again that's 31".

[tirwin]

Ugh. Stupid iPhone pictures are showing up sideways.

Just turn your monitors 90º.

[tirwin]

Originally Posted by Ctopher

I have the smaller of the 5000lb QJ and have used it on my 87 G50 with AC and I did have a bit of trouble lining everything up. I used the front pinch weld along with the rear jacking point on the car. On the drivers side the front AC line was just slightly in the way and I had to tilt the rubber block prior to jacking to get it around the AC line, otherwise it would pinch if I just came straight up. I had similar issue on the passenger side with the oil lines which I had to make sure the rubber blocks were just slightly inside more than the drivers side to clear the lines.

You posted right before I could make my next post. I had exactly the same problem. I addressed it the first time by placing the ramps a little closer inboard but I didn't like it.

This time I disconnected the two clamps holding the A/C line next to the pinch weld and pulled the line out of the way. I also used a slotted "hockey puck" to sit right on the pinch weld.

That allowed me to place the ramps closer to the tires which was much more stable.

[Ctopher]

Originally Posted by tirwin

You posted right before I could make my next post. I had exactly the same problem. I addressed it the first time by placing the ramps a little closer inboard but I didn't like it.

This time I disconnected the two clamps holding the A/C line next to the pinch weld and pulled the line out of the way. I also used a slotted "hockey puck" to sit right on the pinch weld.

Much more stable.

I'll probably do just as you and disconnect the AC lines. I bought some slotted rubber pads which were the same height as the smaller rubber blocks that I'm going to try with next time I need to raise her.

I'm still a noob and am learning but do all Gbody cars have jacking pads in the rear by the torson bar? I thought it was only the 87+ with them. If that is the case then I'm assuming I'm jacking from a further rear position then you are?

[tirwin]

Originally Posted by Ctopher

I'll probably do just as you and disconnect the AC lines. I bought some slotted rubber pads which were the same height as the smaller rubber blocks that I'm going to try with next time I need to raise her.

I'm still a noob and am learning but do all Gbody cars have jacking pads in the rear by the torson bar? I thought it was only the 87+ with them. If that is the case then I'm assuming I'm jacking from a further rear position then you are?

There are no jack pad spots on my '83. Later Carreras had them but I am not sure what year they were introduced. 87ish sounds right but can't confirm.

The thing I like about the "hockey puck" style is I can orient them to the direction of the pinch weld. Hard to do that with the slotted blocks that I've looked at because the slots only run 90º and I'm not sure there is enough room in the channel of the QuickJack to turn the blocks.

Let me know how that works for you.

[Ctopher]

Originally Posted by tirwin

There are no jack pad spots on my '83. Later Carreras had them but I am not sure what year they were introduced. 87ish sounds right but can't confirm.

The thing I like about the "hockey puck" style is I can orient them to the direction of the pinch weld. Hard to do that with the slotted blocks that I've looked at because the slots only run 90º and I'm not sure there is enough room in the channel of the QuickJack to turn the blocks.

Let me know how that works for you.

Yep I bought these hockey puck style from Amazon, that way I can orient in any direction I needed. But these were just about as tall as the smaller blocks, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to use them up front and the blocks on the rear jack pads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKCQX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.christophercasias.com/Christopher911/Misc/IMG_2923.jpg
http://www.christophercasias.com/Christopher911/Misc/IMG_4680.jpg

[tirwin]

Hmmm. I like those. I did not seem them when I searched on Amazon. Probably would’ve bought those if I had seen them when I was looking. Nice find!

[PCA7GGR]

I've got similar puck with the slots for use on our Subi.

[lateapex911]

So, I picked one up (5000 batt powered) and it's pretty cool. One thing: don't use it on a slick surface, like polished tile. They slide easily. ANd thats a problem.

My shop has such tile (looks just like the McLaren F1 shops! HAHAHA) so I resolved it with a thicker electrical splicing tape ....it's thicker than "electrical tape"....sold in 10' rolls. It's sort of rubbery, and grips smooth surfaces well. No more sliding.

[Fein 79]

Jake, could you please post a shot of your "polished tile"? Just want to be sure I don't have the same. My garage floor is covered with RaceDeck Free-Flow...

Free-Flow Self Draining Garage Flooring - RaceDeck

[Fein 79]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I just ordered the QJ 5000EXT. Pretty stoked to begin using it.

What are the must-have accessories to order with it (if any)? Has anyone used the SUV and Light Truck Adapter kit?

I am planning to order one of the round after-market slotted hockey pucks separately...

Thanks again!
Jg

[Mark Salvetti]

Those SUV adapters make me nervous, based on my experience trying to stack the rubber blocks. The problem I've seen is that the QJ doesn't lift straight up. There is some lateral movement of the vehicle as it lifts. This means that until the tires are completely off the ground, there is some drag that tends to cause the stacked blocks to lean. This is especially true if the ground surface the QJ is set on is not perfectly level. I have to think the problem would be even worse with the SUV adapter kit.

That's why I decided to use a couple of 2x12's screwed together and placed under the full length of the QJ when used under our SUVs (if needed). This gives me about 3 extra inches, which is not much less than the added height provided by the basic SUV adapters (4.4 inches).

This seems much safer to me. The tall post of the SUV adapters worries me, especially when I'm rolling around on a creeper under the vehicle. They just don't seem that stable looking.

The 2x12s are also a lot cheaper than the $220 SUV kit, although not as convenient.

As far as accessories, some caps for the hydraulic fittings would be nice. I use a couple different sizes of crutch tips you can by at Ace or Home Depot. The 1 1/8-inch size for the female fittings, and 7/8-inch for the male fittings:




Mark

[MrBonus]

Can the QuickJack be plugged into a regular wall outlet? Sorry, I can't seem to find that answer.

[NY65912]

Order the 120v QJ

[OldSpool87]

It sure can:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[tirwin]

Mark, I think the folks at QJ took your advice. Mine came with a set of dust caps for all the connections.

[tirwin]

Oh, one more thing.

A friend of mine bought the 7500 model because he also has a couple of Packards. According to him, the dimensions of the 7500 don't allow him to lift his '83 SC. Not sure if he has the standard or XL.

[lateapex911]

Originally Posted by Fein 79

Jake, could you please post a shot of your "polished tile"? Just want to be sure I don't have the same. My garage floor is covered with RaceDeck Free-Flow...

Free-Flow Self Draining Garage Flooring - RaceDeck

I'm sorry, I just saw this. My tile is ceramic, and flat, with a semi gloss. I'll get a pic, but it's pretty standard stuff, like you'd see in a kitchen bathroom, but in 12 x 12.

I would guess that yours will be fine, but if not it's cheap to add some backing that will grip.

I had considered the sandpapery stuff that has adhesive backing, and is used on metal stair treads, but didn't want to scratch up the floor...

[OldSpool87]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

I have the 5000XL and use it (with rubber blocks) on a lowered '82 SC with aggressive wheel/tire set up. This decreases the amount of space available to allow for the radial movement as the lift rises. I get tire interference if I use the "usual" fore and aft lift points. So, I pick up the car using seam welds slightly more inboard alleviating the interference.



I've really like having it. Oil draining, CV joint replacement, muffler replacement, heater back date, are some projects that come to mind.

I keep them on the ground and pushed together for storage. I keep a car parked over them at all times so I'm not "losing" foot print.


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I’m quoting myself to add info. Today I went to lift my 930 which unlike my SC has AC. So, I had to contend with the stupid AC line that sits right next to the pinch weld at the drivers side front. It was a pain to remove the hose bracket for some reason. Got it removed and had to push the line out of the way (with another rubber block) in order to land on the pinch weld and not the AC line.

No AC = super easy. With AC = little more work.