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Would love to see longevity updates from those who embarked on this.
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I'm the original poster and I haven't been back to this thread in a long time. It's great to see that it got some traction and others have found this helpful!
It's been over 5 years since I did this, and my wheels have held up great. That said, my car doesn't get exposed to a lot of harsh conditions. I do a fair amount of weekend driving during the summer months, and once a year I do a 2 day touring/rally event - about 250 miles with some pretty aggressive driving on back roads. I've picked up some rock chips on my hood, but nothing on the wheels. I don't drive the car in the winter, so they have never been exposed to salt or anything like that, and they have never been through an automatic carwash. Looking back at my original post, I had some questions whether or not I used the right paint, but I ended up using on clear coat on them and they have held up beautifully. Any of the concerns that others expressed about adhesion, etc. don't seem to be an issue. They look like the day I did them. |
Very Cool
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Great follow up. Thank you!
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I have always loved the RSR finish on Fuchs.
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Here is how I did it..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672879873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672879873.jpg My wheels were polished, California bling bling by someone famous for 1600.00, too much for me. 6 months so far all good. |
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Umm. I don't want to be a killjoy, but that stuff is for painting over wood. It will delaminate and fall off the aluminium wheels some time.
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Probably, but still look great after 6 months of beach air..
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Surviving in beach air. That's a good sign.
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Maverick, the black as already done, the satin just knocked it down perfect. This stuff shoots like a dream, very quick like 2 minutes. If it does fall off I will shoot it again it is fast and easy to do, I used an air brush, no problem with over spray. That's why I do not care if it needs touch up in the future this worked so fast I did all 4 in 10 minutes.
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Stunning results. Did you scuff or sand the polished areas prior to spraying the Minwax satin? Can you clarify how you prepped the polished areas to get the ‘anodized’ satin look?
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Nice, I like the method!
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Yeah, I used some green Scotch-bright and Dawn and washed the wheels on a hot day so they would dry . I did not go crazy just a light scrub because I did not think it would work, or it would run or be cloudy or splotchy. Came out perfect, fast with no overspray. After I did one I was motivated.
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Yea, it will be interesting to see how it lasts, its water based and I don't *think* it's UV blocking and pretty sure it's not designed for outdoor usage. (And certainly not on aluminum LOL)
That said, sometimes products designed for X application work great for Y application. Is the car in the sun a lot? |
to add an xref: I don't have a spray set up. I found what seems to be the same product in spray cans and may give it a try. "Minwax 33333000 Polycrylic Protective Finish Spray for Wood, Clear Satin, 11.5 oz. Aerosol Can" It's about $14.00.
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I got no idea if it will work.. I just tried what I had laying around and was not expecting the results.
There are a lot of good clear coats out there I have used, Summit Racing. old PPG, Imron on my Saab EMS in 1976, Diamond clear, Eastwoods Nylac.. the MinWax water base has NOT held up on my wood dog gate after a year, so take any thing I do with a grain of salt. Have you seen my other threads? Your going to poop when you see my next *&^%$#@. |
Rattle can clear 2K comes in gloss, satin and matte… it’ll last forever and is as easy to apply as any spray paint.
I’d choose that over any other clear coating. |
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