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3.6 conversion motor ;part 5
Its been awhile but finally the parts are starting to arrive, first thing I got a valve adjusting kit from Pelican parts and used waynes 101 book, I am glad the motor was out, but im sure I could adjust them in the car now if i had to, but i would need a mechanics mirror to do it, i will say that most of you can do this pretty simple, the motor has beem cleaned, the engine tin in front of the fan was just rusted bad, I have noticed other conversions haveing poor looking rear engine tin from rust, i spent an hour with a wheel cleaning it up, looks ok ill paint it tonight and install tomorrow,
ok back to the 993 headers, im not a great welder but so so, i decided to take the headers to freinds that builds race cars, one of the best fabricaters I know, we made a jig (see picture) to turn the exhaust flanges, the story is you simple cut the flanges loose bolt to the other header then weld the other header to the flanges, this doesnt work, so what we did was take a 10x3 plate and weld a brace on it to keep it flat. marked the bolt holes then drilled them, we then installed the bolts through the opposite side. We had to get the flanges loose with out damaging anything, they are welded on the inside so we took a die grinder and took the large portions off, we dicided we were far enough but they were not loose, we didnt want to get the metal to thin, so we took a torch and heated up the weld and hit it with a hammer and it broke loose. We cleaned up the welds and the flanges. We bolted the flanges to the jig and tack welded 90 degrees from each bolt hole. we unbolted the jig and welded the inside and took a die grinder and cleaned it up. We put it back on the jig making sure it fit flush everything lined up perfect. The worst thing that can happen at this point is I will have to oval one of the holes, but i really dont think ill have to. Total time one hour. Now the bad news it seems i have the 1995 993 headers which is the only year with oval collectors (were exhaust exits). After talking with Todd he said he had heard a 3.6 conversion with just the stock cat with tail pipes and said it wasnt to loud and sounded great. I have been looking for this cat pipe and i just cant find one. So if you see one let me know. The jig is forsale or as a loaner what ever works. If you need one. I plan to keep posting on this post till the engine is ready to go in so stop back. I would like to thank all of you Jack o, Bill V, Todd embs, Paul the pbs911. ill get this thing runnin yet. Kevin Last edited by Kevin Stewart; 02-02-2003 at 06:37 PM.. |
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Ahh the joy of hot rodding. I didnt see a picture. Was there supposed to be one ?
Kurt Williams
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Never drive faster than your gaurdian angel can fly. 82 SC w/965S eng and G50 6:1 hp/w ratio 72 911t 2.6 twin plug and 72' 911t 57k orig 1 own miles 65/66 912 1 owner 76k orig 01' Aston Martin DB7 V12 Vantage Coupe 6spd |
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some how i hit enter, here goes, Kevin
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Kevin,
If I understand your post you have to connect the oval header flange to a oval muffler pipe. And you need the oval collector for the muffler? If so you can make a oval collector.
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Dean 911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno, |
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Blown if you look above where you typed my name you will see the oval port, I probably can make one, but i really would like to just buy a cat and get it over with, an easy exhaust, I plan to put B&B headers on someday maybe with a flow master muffler, but that may never happen if I like this set up, itll have cats and if i ever move I may be able to get it to pass smog, Kevin
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This is what you need Kevin, just weld some tips on the end of the cats and your in good shape. This is a little loud but not nearly as loud as the super crapps with headers. It sounds like more of a growl, compared to the super crapp drone.
Harald probably has the mix chamber on his shelf right now. Thanks, |
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Kevin, looks great. The 993 cat would definatly be the easiest way to go. Unfortunatly, I really want to retain my 2 straight out the back sport exhaust so I will have to have the muffler fabricated. I am also using the flip stud adapters which would probably prohibit using the OEM 993 cat b/c the exhaust will be about 1/4" lower on the left side. Does anyone know a welder that will come to the house?
Have you started on the wiring? The instructions from Timmins seem to be faily comprehensive. Thanks to Jim (Buttjoint), who brought over his motor cycle jack the engine/trans drop was a piece of cake. I have the 3.6 about 1/2 way completed with new seals, flywheel/clutch, studs, etc. Ingo installed a RUF chip in the DME at Dunkles. My fan, fan housing, valve covers, and engine tin are Al Reeds for powder coating/polishing and will get them back this week. I am still waiting for the engine rear brace and front engine tin from Timmins. In the mean time the engine compartment was cleaned and primered for paint. I plan on having the wiring completed next weekend and the engine ready for installation once the two remaining pieces arrive from Timmins. I'm shooting for the weekend of 14th to be completed.
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Paul, i thougt that the syntec chip cured the idle problem with the lighter flywheel, are sure the RUF chip will also do this, Kevin
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The RUF chip is for the lightened flywheel too. It has been tested with good results. My only problem is now I find out the motor may have come with a better RS chip! Why is it always me.
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Paul yea i know what ya mean, Kevin
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Well by now some of you know i got the 993 headers flanges changed only to find after a test fit that none of the heat hoses come close, that was it sold the headers, i still have the jig if anyone needs it.
So this will be an exhaust update. After getting frustrated about the 993 headers i did a search here on pelican and emailed any one that had a exhaust forsale in the last six months. This is what I found, B&B 1-5/8 headers with a single out muffler. After looking at the muffler it appears that i could cut a hole and add a second tail pipe, Anyone know anthing about this? Also I would like the clean the headers up any idea what works on stainless steel?, I should be posting more this weekend, Kevin Last edited by Kevin Stewart; 02-13-2003 at 04:58 PM.. |
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My advice on the B&B is to sell the muffler. Especially if you open a second outlet, you're going to get the B&B's trademark 'booming resonance' from 2000 to 3000 or so rpm.
Mucho annoying. Instead, get a dual-in, dual-out flowmaster, and have your muffler shop mate it up with some J-pipes and flanges. Throaty sound, that way, with no resonance. I have the dual-in, dual-out B&B, and I finally solved the tooth-drilling resonance problem by having my muffler shop reduce the outlet pipes down from 3 inches to 2 inches. Now there's no resonance, but the setup is quieter than many stock 911 setups. I guess the quiet is nice for tracks with db limits and long drives, but I plan on putting together a Flowmaster setup for drives with the boys where I want the car to make a little noise. If nothing else, try it with the single-out before you cut a second hole. The resonance is really crazy-making, unless all you do is track driving.
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Jack Olsen 1972 911 My new video about my garage. • A video from German TV about my 911 Last edited by Jack Olsen; 02-13-2003 at 05:26 PM.. |
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