Originally Posted by Driven97 (Post 9708186)

Just as an FYI, it's fantastically rare for rotors to actually warp. 99.9% of the time pedal pulsing is caused by uneven pad transfer. During braking, some of the pad material embeds itself into the surface of the rotor. This is totally normal and actually desired.

If you like to sit at stop lights with your brakes clamped hard, especially if the brakes are on the hot side, a little extra pad material can sort of stick when you release. Do this often enough, and you can build nice little clusters of pad material. To make things worse, the brakes are "sticky" in these spots which increases the odds of stopping on one next time, making those individual spots build little peaks of pad material n the rotors higher and higher with each stop.

Best solution to avoid this is to not stand on the brakes anymore once you've stopped. Ease off on the pedal, use only enough pressure as needed. Even better is to roll ahead very slightly periodically to avoid being clamped on to the same spot.

I agree with the above - a light cut might help you temporarily, but it's best to just go with replacement and change your braking habits. This part I'm not as clear on, but I guess the uneven heating you've created can change the metallurgy in the rotor unevenly, and that means your problem will come back.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera (Post 9708565)

Brakes are thousands of dollars cheaper than a transmission rebuild. Don't downshift to save brakes. That is crazy. The brakes are cheap and easy to replace. In 20+ years of owning my 911 I have never warped the rotors and I have done over 100 autoccrosses.

Originally Posted by Nick Triesch (Post 9708675)

I took my car to the shop I have used for 30 years and they turned all four rotors for $90. My car stops just fine.

Originally Posted by yelcab1 (Post 9708663)

For the $50 per rotor, it would be economically cheaper to swap out rotors. I assume your time running around dropping them off, waiting a few hours, and running around getting them back, only to have the thing last 3 moths... is false economy. My standard practice is if each rotor is less than $100, I throw them out.

Originally Posted by cabmando (Post 9708923)

I ended up getting the rotors turned by a local I mentioned in a previous post. $25 for the pair. Lowest cost for new that I saw was $104 for the pair. Savings: $79
The funny thing is, I had no idea I was starting such a controversial thread.

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom (Post 9709061)

Even if you turn your rotors you will still need to bed the rotors. My brakes are like running into a brick wall.
Did you put a dial indicator on the rotors to check the runout? If the surface is blotchy it's a bedding issue, it's really easy to see with a flashlight. My Stoptechs have a satin sheen and to this day are uber predictable at all speeds. Add some heat into the rotor and pad and they are Velcro. The way brakes actually work is fascinating, it's not just surface friction that is doing the stopping. Hit a google search and read till your eyes bleed!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/867029-new-brakes.html

Originally Posted by cabmando (Post 9709078)

... I considered starting a "which pad" thread but...

Originally Posted by cabmando (Post 9709078)

The guy who turned the rotors checked run out. He indicated there was run out on both rotors. I'm going to order some new pads, get everything installed and then go out and bed the pads properly.
I considered starting a "which pad" thread but I think I'm just going to wing it to avoid further controversy. Plus there's already a thread on that subject.

Thanks for the input.