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Engine drop for starter replacement
I ran into a major complication in the midst of replacing the starter on my '85 911. There are two barrel nuts holding on the starter. The first is easily accessible, but you have to drop the engine about 9-12 inches to get access to the second barrel nut. I think as long as I disconnect everything required for engine removal I can just drop the engine using my floor jack, remove and replace the starter, jack the engine back up and reconnect everything. My only concern is how far I can drop the engine with the transmission still connected. Any thoughts/advice?
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Dan Morissette '85 Guards Red Targa 911 My Owners Gallery Page Non illegitimi carborundum |
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You can take the engine completely out with the transmission connected. But make sure the shift linkage is disconnected before you lower the motor-transmission together.
Tim |
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It isn't necessary to drop, or even lower the engine to remove the starter on a 915 transaxle! A 10 mm hex drive bit and long extension is the required tool to loosen the barrel nut. If you remove the driver's side rear wheel ... a long reach over the top of the trans will be needed to remove that nut.
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I've removed the starter on my '85 more than once without dropping the engine. Like Warren said, use an extension and give the tranny a hug.
JPerry '85 Carrera '68 912
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Thanks guys--I will try that. This kind of advice is what makes this board great.
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Dan Morissette '85 Guards Red Targa 911 My Owners Gallery Page Non illegitimi carborundum |
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I was able to get the second bolt off with suprising ease by laying directly under the engine/transmission. With your head facing the front of the car and your shoulder a little forward of the cv's, you can reach the barrel nut easily with a socket wrench and 4 inch extention. By the way, all the threads/info I have seen describe these as allen heads--they are not, they are torx, at least on my car. I did get the passenger side off with a 10 mm allen, but I used a torx (the size was kind of worn off, but I think it was a 55) on the driver's side and to reinstall both. Three things to watch out for if you're installing the high-torque starter, at least on an '85 3.2. First, it goes on upside down, i.e. the solenoid is to the inside and the wiring connectors are on top. It won't fit right side up. Second, it partially obstructs the passenger side hose from the heat exchanger-- it was a b**ch to get back on and I think I am going to redo it after a trip to Home Depot for some diy adapters. The hose as it is now contacts the edge of the starter. Third, the mounts are thinner, so the barrel nuts reach bottom before they're fully tight, forcing the torx socket out. You need to put a couple of extra washers on the bolt to get the nuts tight. Hope this helps somebody else avoid a few headaches.
Thanks again to all who helped.
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Dan Morissette '85 Guards Red Targa 911 My Owners Gallery Page Non illegitimi carborundum Last edited by targa911man; 02-04-2003 at 01:30 PM.. |
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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I was able to easily remove the top bolt when going through my engine drop. And it definately is not necessary to drop the motor to change the starter. Make sure the vehicle is properly supported BEFORE you climb underneath! I found it easier to have a 10mm Allen socket, a long extension, a small ratchet with a nice breaker bar attached to it, and my wife on the mechanics creaper. Heck, I didn't even get dirty!
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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Dan Morissette '85 Guards Red Targa 911 My Owners Gallery Page Non illegitimi carborundum |
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17-year old post........
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