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targa911man's Avatar
 
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Engine drop for starter replacement

I ran into a major complication in the midst of replacing the starter on my '85 911. There are two barrel nuts holding on the starter. The first is easily accessible, but you have to drop the engine about 9-12 inches to get access to the second barrel nut. I think as long as I disconnect everything required for engine removal I can just drop the engine using my floor jack, remove and replace the starter, jack the engine back up and reconnect everything. My only concern is how far I can drop the engine with the transmission still connected. Any thoughts/advice?

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Old 02-03-2003, 12:27 PM
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You can take the engine completely out with the transmission connected. But make sure the shift linkage is disconnected before you lower the motor-transmission together.

Tim
Old 02-03-2003, 12:39 PM
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It isn't necessary to drop, or even lower the engine to remove the starter on a 915 transaxle! A 10 mm hex drive bit and long extension is the required tool to loosen the barrel nut. If you remove the driver's side rear wheel ... a long reach over the top of the trans will be needed to remove that nut.
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Old 02-03-2003, 12:49 PM
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I've removed the starter on my '85 more than once without dropping the engine. Like Warren said, use an extension and give the tranny a hug.

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Old 02-03-2003, 01:00 PM
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Thanks guys--I will try that. This kind of advice is what makes this board great.
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Old 02-03-2003, 01:38 PM
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I was able to get the second bolt off with suprising ease by laying directly under the engine/transmission. With your head facing the front of the car and your shoulder a little forward of the cv's, you can reach the barrel nut easily with a socket wrench and 4 inch extention. By the way, all the threads/info I have seen describe these as allen heads--they are not, they are torx, at least on my car. I did get the passenger side off with a 10 mm allen, but I used a torx (the size was kind of worn off, but I think it was a 55) on the driver's side and to reinstall both. Three things to watch out for if you're installing the high-torque starter, at least on an '85 3.2. First, it goes on upside down, i.e. the solenoid is to the inside and the wiring connectors are on top. It won't fit right side up. Second, it partially obstructs the passenger side hose from the heat exchanger-- it was a b**ch to get back on and I think I am going to redo it after a trip to Home Depot for some diy adapters. The hose as it is now contacts the edge of the starter. Third, the mounts are thinner, so the barrel nuts reach bottom before they're fully tight, forcing the torx socket out. You need to put a couple of extra washers on the bolt to get the nuts tight. Hope this helps somebody else avoid a few headaches.
Thanks again to all who helped.
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Last edited by targa911man; 02-04-2003 at 01:30 PM..
Old 02-04-2003, 08:34 AM
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I was able to easily remove the top bolt when going through my engine drop. And it definately is not necessary to drop the motor to change the starter. Make sure the vehicle is properly supported BEFORE you climb underneath! I found it easier to have a 10mm Allen socket, a long extension, a small ratchet with a nice breaker bar attached to it, and my wife on the mechanics creaper. Heck, I didn't even get dirty!
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Groesbeck Hurricane
I was able to easily remove the top bolt when going through my engine drop. And it definately is not necessary to drop the motor to change the starter. Make sure the vehicle is properly supported BEFORE you climb underneath! I found it easier to have a 10mm Allen socket, a long extension, a small ratchet with a nice breaker bar attached to it, and my wife on the mechanics creaper. Heck, I didn't even get dirty!
Either you have a very clean car or I have a very dirty one. I was covered in soot from head to foot. I looked like a guy coming out of a coal mine after a hard day's work, but most of that came from screwing with the exchanger hose.
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Early_S_Man View Post
It isn't necessary to drop, or even lower the engine to remove the starter on a 915 transaxle! A 10 mm hex drive bit and long extension is the required tool to loosen the barrel nut. If you remove the driver's side rear wheel ... a long reach over the top of the trans will be needed to remove that nut.
Thanks. I’ll try that.
Old 07-30-2020, 06:23 PM
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17-year old post........

Quote:
Originally Posted by vincechu View Post
Thanks. I’ll try that.
Vince,

You just replied to a very old post.

Tony
Old 07-30-2020, 06:35 PM
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That’s what’s great about the search!

Old 07-30-2020, 06:46 PM
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