When you drop your engine... what do you drop it on to keep it balanced??
 

I have a hydraulic cart that I'm going to drop my engine and trans onto...
problem is that I'm trying to figure out how to keep the engine from tilting sideways as I drop it onto a flat surface.

Any suggestions????

Use a 1000lb lift table (hydraulic cart) and 2 pieces of 2 x4 that are a foot long a little bit forward of the chain housings. Works great, done drops up to 997 turbo with this setup.

Check posts 100 to 112 of http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/401955-supporting-engine-removal.html

perfect... I'll try that out!

Thanks for the link... that helps to see some visual pics!!

I've used a hydraulic table and combinations of wood, but this is by far the safest and most confidence inspiring. It's a replica that was used by the factory to install and remove drivetrains.

911 Engine/Transmission Removal Jack Adapter Tool PELPW2563 - Wilding Engineering - PEL-PW-2563 | Pelican Parts

Hi Trakrat...if you have a floor jack with round plate like this
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techart...set2/pic44.JPG

Place the one of the 4 high lips just where engine meets trany.
If you put it right in the middle the removing engine and trany is easy.
I have done it like this since the 1980`s The engine is balanced and it drops nicely with the trany no worries.

Ivan

here exactly
http://img.pccreation.net/photos/201709252129486525.JPG

Can you put the whole weight of the Engine on the heat exchangers?

Seems like making the plywood support cradle is the way to go...

Taking out my 930 motor was a bear, and took 2 people on a hydraulic cart...

I left the rear bumper on, that didn't help...

That one is designed for a engine with an oil sump plate where it is flat and sits on top of the bracket fairly stable. Starting in 1984, the sump plate went away and balancing the engine on a edge is a bit more difficult. That is why the two 2x4 on either side of the case split seam works better.

What I did is jam hard styrofoam under the heat exchanger which really stabilized the engine but most of the weight was on the sculpted 4x4

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459167779.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459167815.jpg

That's actually a GREAT idea... I have some good blocks of Styrofoam I saved that may work out great for this!!!

Thanks for the idea!! :D

The last couple of times I dropped my motor, I used two floor jacks. A large one under the motor's sump and a smaller one under the trans mount. That way I could adjust the angle of the motor and trans accurately and firmly when going in and out.

yes.
I used an old baby matress to "soften" the drop and not damage the SSI

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506374212.jpg

... and now for something completely different...

I have a skateboard with the kicktail cut off and a couple blocks cut from a 2x4 to support and hold it in position. With the skateboard I can quickly maneuver the engine and trans by tilting the whole thing and the rolling resistance is as close to nil as you will find.

It is dirt cheap and it makes removal and reinstallation of the engine extremely quick.

Does anyone know the weight of the engine and trans together?
I know they all vary, but approximately for a 3.3L and 4 Speed. I have a 500lb cart and don't want to but the 1,000lb one if I don't need too.

500lb is not going to do it.

Shoot. Forgot about the changes to the blocks. They need to make a new adapter. It really is great. Makes removing and reinstalling the drivetrain a breeze. And the best part is that you don't have to worry about storing it either. I just left it on the adapter with a dedicated jack while working on the engine.

Mine did not, so I had to get a 660lb version.

I made up this to go on an ATV jack and works great I use it when I am by my self and it keeps the engine and trans solid and at the angle needed.

Lorne M.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506443467.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506443484.jpg

Old thread revival!
So, I was considering buying the pelican adapter that fits the jack pad hole and mates with the engine...but it was $185 or so. Ouch.

So, instead I went the opposite...from high end Pelican to low end Harbor freight...for less $ I got a Pittsburg aluminum ATV jack, put a piece of wood on it and poof, done.

I bought a ATV jack from Sears, that fits under a furniture dolly. I have the dolly in between the jack and the engine. I did the engine trans combination this way

Same ATV jack

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582049489.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1582049546.jpg