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When you drop your engine... what do you drop it on to keep it balanced??

I have a hydraulic cart that I'm going to drop my engine and trans onto...
problem is that I'm trying to figure out how to keep the engine from tilting sideways as I drop it onto a flat surface.

Any suggestions????
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:31 AM
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Use a 1000lb lift table (hydraulic cart) and 2 pieces of 2 x4 that are a foot long a little bit forward of the chain housings. Works great, done drops up to 997 turbo with this setup.
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:03 AM
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Check posts 100 to 112 of supporting engine at removal
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Use a 1000lb lift table (hydraulic cart) and 2 pieces of 2 x4 that are a foot long a little bit forward of the chain housings. Works great, done drops up to 997 turbo with this setup.
perfect... I'll try that out!
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ 911SC View Post
Check posts 100 to 112 of supporting engine at removal
Thanks for the link... that helps to see some visual pics!!
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:37 AM
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I've used a hydraulic table and combinations of wood, but this is by far the safest and most confidence inspiring. It's a replica that was used by the factory to install and remove drivetrains.

911 Engine/Transmission Removal Jack Adapter Tool PELPW2563 - Wilding Engineering - PEL-PW-2563 | Pelican Parts
Old 09-25-2017, 10:45 AM
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Hi Trakrat...if you have a floor jack with round plate like this


Place the one of the 4 high lips just where engine meets trany.
If you put it right in the middle the removing engine and trany is easy.
I have done it like this since the 1980`s The engine is balanced and it drops nicely with the trany no worries.

Ivan

here exactly

Last edited by proporsche; 09-25-2017 at 11:30 AM..
Old 09-25-2017, 11:19 AM
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Can you put the whole weight of the Engine on the heat exchangers?

Seems like making the plywood support cradle is the way to go...

Taking out my 930 motor was a bear, and took 2 people on a hydraulic cart...

I left the rear bumper on, that didn't help...
Old 09-25-2017, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will hung View Post
I've used a hydraulic table and combinations of wood, but this is by far the safest and most confidence inspiring. It's a replica that was used by the factory to install and remove drivetrains.

911 Engine/Transmission Removal Jack Adapter Tool PELPW2563 - Wilding Engineering - PEL-PW-2563 | Pelican Parts
That one is designed for a engine with an oil sump plate where it is flat and sits on top of the bracket fairly stable. Starting in 1984, the sump plate went away and balancing the engine on a edge is a bit more difficult. That is why the two 2x4 on either side of the case split seam works better.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
Can you put the whole weight of the Engine on the heat exchangers?...
What I did is jam hard styrofoam under the heat exchanger which really stabilized the engine but most of the weight was on the sculpted 4x4



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Old 09-25-2017, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ 911SC View Post
What I did is jam hard styrofoam under the heat exchanger which really stabilized the engine
That's actually a GREAT idea... I have some good blocks of Styrofoam I saved that may work out great for this!!!

Thanks for the idea!!
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:21 PM
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The last couple of times I dropped my motor, I used two floor jacks. A large one under the motor's sump and a smaller one under the trans mount. That way I could adjust the angle of the motor and trans accurately and firmly when going in and out.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
Can you put the whole weight of the Engine on the heat exchangers?..
yes.
I used an old baby matress to "soften" the drop and not damage the SSI

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Old 09-25-2017, 01:17 PM
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... and now for something completely different...

I have a skateboard with the kicktail cut off and a couple blocks cut from a 2x4 to support and hold it in position. With the skateboard I can quickly maneuver the engine and trans by tilting the whole thing and the rolling resistance is as close to nil as you will find.

It is dirt cheap and it makes removal and reinstallation of the engine extremely quick.
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:52 PM
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Does anyone know the weight of the engine and trans together?
I know they all vary, but approximately for a 3.3L and 4 Speed. I have a 500lb cart and don't want to but the 1,000lb one if I don't need too.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:18 AM
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500lb is not going to do it.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelcab1 View Post
That one is designed for a engine with an oil sump plate where it is flat and sits on top of the bracket fairly stable. Starting in 1984, the sump plate went away and balancing the engine on a edge is a bit more difficult. That is why the two 2x4 on either side of the case split seam works better.
Shoot. Forgot about the changes to the blocks. They need to make a new adapter. It really is great. Makes removing and reinstalling the drivetrain a breeze. And the best part is that you don't have to worry about storing it either. I just left it on the adapter with a dedicated jack while working on the engine.
Old 09-26-2017, 06:33 AM
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelcab1 View Post
500lb is not going to do it.
Mine did not, so I had to get a 660lb version.
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:12 AM
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I made up this to go on an ATV jack and works great I use it when I am by my self and it keeps the engine and trans solid and at the angle needed.

Lorne M.


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Old 09-26-2017, 08:31 AM
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