this is the start of 11 replys.. if someone needs direct e-mail... RoninLB@optonline or a fax or a photostat

IMPORTANT .. pay attention to setting string to the different width of the front and rear hubs.. they are not equal

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/Ray1.jpg

DAM..is that good enough to copy and print?? HELP.. because I do a 11:38PM train

gotta run for a train.. bride is in busy season
need help to do this
will return before 12:30AM EST...........Ron

the last scan was at 75dpi.. this is at 200dpi w/big shrink

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/Ray1a.jpg

Ron,

If you want you can just scann them big and then email them to me and I will adjust so they can be posted. smasraum@swbell.net

I don't know what software you are using, but rather than shrink image size starting at 200dpi and then reducing image quality/increasing compression will reduce the file size without loosing too much clarity.

Sorry I couldn't get back to you before you left, but since you are doing us a service I am more than happy to wait or offer whatever help that I can.

Update... masraum will try to do the tweaking later.. did an e-mail w/him. and he suggested some settings that didn't help me on this $300 HP 3in1 unit.. don't know when this will all happen.. unless someone has a bright idea to get this done.. the last time I had a bright idea I blew the bulb ground when both bulb filiments, hi&low, were adjusted to be on at the same time..

:confused:

Here's a recent post...see my post embedded:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/96761-turbo-tie-rod-instalition.html?highlight=Ferch

---Wil Ferch

Sorry I came in late on this. If this info. is being posted anywhere, I'd like to get a copy also.

Thanks,

Jerry M
'78 SC

The scans will be going to my home email, but I have remote desktop, so I should be able to work on them shortly after I receive them. I'll post them here when I've got them done.

OK..direct link to other post:

Here's a trick...
I would do a "home alignment"... *IF*... toe is all I was worried about.
How? Simple..get a long piece of conduit, and stabilize one end so it won't roll. Place it across the front of both front wheels. Now..place a thumbtack on a *rib* of the front tire ( front-side...call this 9 0'clock as you view the driver's side wheel from the outside) and string a bob-weight over the shaft of the tack until the bob hits ground...actually ..the conduit laying on the floor. Make sure your tack is on a rib...you don't want to puncture a tire !!
Mark this point on the conduit with a fine-tip pen. Repeat on the other side wheel. Measure the distance of the two marks on the conduit, and leave them there.
Now...carefully roll the car back until the thumb tack is at 3 o'clock position...or facing the backside of the car. Place the conduit on the ground *behind* the wheel. Repeat the bob-weight procedure. When you have "equal" front and rear readings..you have zero toe. "Snug" the toe-adjustment for a "smidge" of toe-in...and you're good to go. To target 1/16" vs 1/8" of toe-in is absurd due to the amount of rubber in the suspension anyway...so don't sweat the small stuff.
If you don't agree..it's at least a very good approximation of where you need to be as you drive to the alignment shop without needlessly wearing out your tires.
---Wil Ferch

The thing I don't understand about home toe settings is how to do the rears. I have in the past set front toe using an approach similar to Wil's description above.

But to do the rear tires, don't you need a reference point that does not rely on the other tire? In other words, you can't use "total toe" as a goal. Each wheel must be adjusted with respect to the centerline of the car, and I have a hard time finding that centerline.

I guess I need to take a look at the brochure that is being posted.

Colin

Hey Steve.....User's mailbox is full: <smasraum@
Unable to deliver mail.

You are right about this as the rears don't turn. I think these guys are talking about front toe because you can change it for a track day or set it after tie rod install. For the long run and rear toe, I would use a reputable alignment shop with four wheel computerized capability.

I've got faith in you guys. Eventually there will be something I can print out...right???

Here's a reasonably priced tool for setting the front toe:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy01.asp?UID=2003020712163089&T1=49023&Dep_Key 1=BraSup

But like what was said above, it's only useful for front toe.

To set rear toe you measure from the car centerline. With the centerline being a line drawn through the midpoints of the front and rear SUSPENSION PIVOTS. Not the center of the tub. From that centerline, you set up parallel string reference lines outside the car. You then set the toe by measuring from your parallel reference lines to the edge of the wheel.

I'm sure the kickass book Ron has will describe this in detail.

And, as others have said, the "How to Make Your Car Handle" is an excellent excellent book. It's a must have for those who would like to know how cars suspension works. I'm sure Pelican carries this and so does motorbooks.com, amazon.com, etc.

yep.. the booklet is kinda 911 specific, so it helps.. so, the string action paragraph is scanned, and I'll try to post a simple 75dpi pic

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/Ray75dpi.jpg

Update #2 ... mastraum has confirmed that he received 12 200dpi pics...........Ron

OK, here's the first page, the rest will follow in the next 10-30 minutes.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/align1.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/align2.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/align3.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/align4.jpg

Cowtown and others:

Hmmm. ... I thought I knew enough about this to be dangerous !

Anyway, let's go back to the premise that rear toe can't be measured as total toe. If you stop to really think about it...why not? I guess I could understand that if it's done this way, there is the possibility of the car being set up to "crab" ( high thrust angle the angle formed between the true centerline of the car and the steering effect of the two rear wheels), but if your car was never in an accident...why wouldn't total rear toe work? Especially since toe changes rather dramatically with suspension movement ( up and down). At static ride height where all the adjustment is done and where the car spends most of it's life, this should work out reasonably well...no? Help me see this.

--Wil Ferch

Is this Ray Scruggs guy still around? If he is still making the book available I think I should send him $10.