Thanks all for your help... I finally got them off. How did I do it???
I bought the hex socket as suggested... and also bought a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.
This allowed me to use my Gorilla Lug Nut Wrench with the extendable handle...
You were all right... it was tight but turned slow. Just stuck on there from all the gunk and road grime build up. It created a type of seal that made it difficult.

WOOT WOOT!!!
Now to do the hardest part.... actually dropping the engine.

The OP titled this thread, "Removing rear axles...??". So I made the assumption that he wanted to actually remove the rear axle and was having issues with the CVs. They're usually the least of most people's problems when taking the axle out, thus my suggestion regarding the axle nut because perhaps he hadn't gotten there yet.

Now with his last post, I realize he was just trying to get the CVs off the transmission so he could drop the engine. No axle removal required.

Cool!
Now just make sure you do a good once around to make sure you have everything unhooked before you start the drop. I know from experience that it sucks when you start dropping the engine and realize you still have some line connected. In my opinion, prep of disconnecting everything is harder than actually dropping the engine.

Good luck and be careful!

Two different types of CV joints.........
 

Cabmando,

Your assumption is correct if you are working on 100-mm CV's with a detachable stub axle. The axle (halfshaft) could be separated after the removal of the 8-mm CV bolts. However, the new larger 108-mm CV's with 10-mm CV bolts do not have detachable stub axle without undergoing some modification. This is the reason why you need to loosen stub axle nut to remove the CV shaft from the car. The change in CV from 100-mm to 108-mm started in '85 MY.

Tony

Thanks cabmando...
I've already noticed some linkage that needs to be moved, such as throttle linkage as well as the axles having to drop all the way down to clear them (I have them tied up right now to keep them from hanging down)

I'm also guessing I'll need to put my headers back on (as I took them off to gain access to removing everything).
I'm concerned that the engine weight would shift onto an exhaust bolt too much and snap them.

Pretty common to let the engine sit on the exhaust.

If your goal is an engine drop, read these posts

I have dropped my engine as well as a few others and have always left the heat exchangers on. I'm assuming you took the bolts loose at the transmission flange and left them attached to the hub flange. I normally just drop them altogether just to have them out of the way and they really don't go in all that hard.

You don't have to put your HE's back on but they help stabilize the engine. If you haven't looked into it, there's a thread here with some great advice on jacks or a platform you can make fairly easily for a floor jack to help drop the engine.

Boyt,
I'd have to check by my brother took the flanges and half shafts from my car (he owned the car first)because they were the larger 10mm bolts IIRC. He can drop his the same way I drop mine as I recall. I have helped him with a few engine drop and installs and don't recall doing anything any different than I do with my axle shafts.

Rear axle shafts and CV joints........
 

Cabmando,

The change in larger CV joints began in 1985 USA Model Year and some early production models ('85) had the earlier (100-mm) CV joints. See Bulletin #5 pages 118-119 (Catalog PNA-000-147). The OP's '87 Carrera 3.2 would have the bigger 108-mm CV joints.

Tony

Can someone confirm the torque for these bolts?

8mm flange bolts=30ft/lbs 10mm flange bolts=60ft/lbs

CV bolts recommended torque values..........
 

8-mm CV bolts..........................30 ft-lb.
10-mm CV bolts.........................60 ft-lb.

See page 420-21 (Bentley Carrera 3.2 shop manual).

Tony