The official EFI Ignition map sharing thread
 

I've seen lots of ignition maps shared around different threads but thought it would be most helpful to have 1 thread to house the lot of them.
if you feel like contributing, please post your map and include motor specs (2.7L, 3.0L, 3.2L SS, 3.2L LS, CIS dome, RSR dome, etc....) and thanks for embracing the open-source mentality!

Disclaimer - no one besides yourself shall be responsible for engine damage from using a shared ignition map. Know well enough what you are doing/risking before you go and try someone else's ignition settings.

Below is my ignition map. Specs in the header of the image but i should mention its single plug too. Most of my light throttle cruising cells are paired with 14.7-15.0 AFR targets.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509049227.jpg

3.2 Short Stroke, JE 9.5:1 Pistons, Single Plug, Large Port SC Heads, Carrera Intake, B&B Headers and Muffler, 964 Cams (the Ignition Table below is from when the car was NA)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509057511.jpg

Did I miss your turbo thread Jayson?!

3.2 stock except ITB's and AEM + COP ignition

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509066372.PNG

Nope! Hasn’t been posted yet ;)

@Pehlen - are you having much success with tuning based on MAP? is your VE table against MAP or throttle %? Just curious.

Fuel is against TPS, ignition against map. I had it on a dyno at the end of last year and the mix of approaches created some tuning hurdles. I’m also experiencing a bit of an odd minor power loss at constant throttle and RPM’s between ~4500 and 5200, and the most likely culprit at this time is the slightly flakey MAP readings.

Due to those two things, I’m going to switch over to TPS for ignition shortly.

Outside of those two things, the car runs great and is great on the street.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I was going to wait until I was finished tuning to post, but with work these days, that is looking more like June.

Daily driver 1982 911SC
AEM Infinity
3.2SS
964 cams
CIS manifold
stock heat exchangers, bypass pipe, RarlyL8 1in/1out

Drives very well - put 80 miles a day on it in temperatures from 18* to 76*, rain and shine. Will be focusing on the cruise timing more once tax season is over.

VE table:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Website-h...%20Table-M.jpg

Ignition table:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Website-h...%20Table-M.jpg

Useful thread with all the EFI stuff popping up. Keep it going.

What are people seeing for idle vacuum at 1000rpm?

No drastic changes to the tables below. I did increase the VE between 4500 and 5500 a tad as well as make some individual cylinder adjustments to fuel and timing in the same range to deal with cylinder 3&4 being more detonation prone in that particular range. Had this issue on the factory distributor and CIS, but obviously didn't know which cylinders were the problem.

Looking back, I wish I had procured a Carrera intake to take advantage of the idle control valve. As it is, have to manually add throttle once started cold and need 45 seconds before it will begrudgingly idle at 700rpm. Warm idle is fine and set at 1000rpm target with about 4-6% feedback. Sometimes less. Sometimes more. Haven't figured out the cause and effect.

Jayson, do you have screen shots of your after start warm up tables?

Ha! Separate thread for Turbo EFI, Lets keep this for N/A cars.. ITB and the like!

^^ Agree 100%

Cold Idle
 

kjchristopher,
to raise cold idle you have a few options.
If you are running a CIS manifold/ throttle body you can add the old CIS air valve with a 12V supply.
Or add a Carrera idle control valve with the AEM controlling it or any other idle valve that is AEM compatible. Just use the CIS ports with creative plumbing.
Or you might get by without an idle valve by adding ignition advance during warm-up. Its been a while but I recall an Ignition trim vs coolant temperature feature. It has worked for me in Florida.

Here are my After Start trim tables:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523293505.jpg

And my idle settings for the 3.2 Idle Valve. I am using 2 Lowsides to control the valve, Pins 1 & 3 with +12v to Pin 2. Pretty simple to configure, 100Hz fixed frequency, 0-100 pass thru duty with Pin 3 the inverse of Pin 1 (100=0, 0=100). I also initially setup the base warm idle with the valve unplugged and adjusted the throttle stop to my liking (make sure to reset your TPS zero position after doing this). By setting the base position when warm without the valve active, in the event the valve failed, my idle will be where it needs to be when warm. The goal of an idle valve should be 2 fold: 1. Provide more airflow to a cold engine. 2. Provide more airflow on rapid transient throttle conditions to prevent stalling. Other than that, you should not rely heavily on the valve itself for idle control when warm. The Base position of 25 at 1000rpm in the table below matches the unplugged state (there is some deadband built into the valve, assuming this was done by Bosch to keep the engine running in the event the valve failed). Hope this helps.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523293673.jpg

would love a map for stock 2.7 with itbs...
messing around with mine trying to avoid a dyno :cool:

Does anyone have a VE and ignition map that's somewhat similar to my setup to help me compare/contrast?

993 3.6L motor (stock except 993 RS Euro cams)
Varioram intake
Bosch 1.8T COP
Bosch 36 lb reconditioned injectors
AEM Infinity 506 ECU

Thanks in advance.

@pfitz911 I know Clay from Closed Course Motorsports has an infinity on a 2.7 or a 2.8. Perhaps he would share.
I would think that they ignition timing would be pretty close to the 3.0 though.
Maybe the distro curve could be a starting point, but I think 35-38 at WOT might be too much but i really don't know.
[IMG]http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate.../72adv-crv.jpg[/IMG]

Hey gents, since I`m on the same page quite literally so...
Working on my mapping (street tuning) I am experiencing a few things. My car do backfires in the intake. My AFR map looked quite reasonable with 14,7 around idle and 13,5 to 12,7 on WOT (1000+ rpm to 7000) and everything in between. Driving around with some nasty pop corn sounds I`ve tried to add 20% fuel all over the map. She responded MUCH better. Even idle was happier. But still in some RPM and TPS range I have those poping sounds. Not as much as I had though.
So, my question is - what is your AFR range or target map (if you don`t mind sharing) cos I`m at the point of 13-ish at cruising and only God knows how rich on WOT?
Is that 911 sc are such petrolholics or my wideband shows me not the real numbers or wth is going on?
Setup is simple: stock 911SC (muffler changed with stock headers) with Triumph 675R ITBs, AEM EPM, COPs from Rasant and EMS EM80 ECU.
Thanx in advance, George.

This is due to your wall wetting table not providing enough extra fuel momentarily when you crack open the throttles. Wall wetting is what AEM calls it while others call it acceleration enrichment. Serves same purpose as an accelerator pump in a carburetor. You want to add values to the wall wetting table on the right side of "0" throttle change. Some people add negative numbers to the left side but that isn't going to change your momentary lean pops.

You have set the ve table close but that's only part of the equation. With ITBs you'll find that you need to add a fair amount of extra fuel when you change the throttle opening even just a little bit. 6 throttles opened 10% is actually quite a lot compared to one single throttle opened 10%.hopefully that makes sense.

Has anyone assembled a stock 3.0 using itbs? Would love to see a fuel and ignition table to suit..

I've done a little tweaking since the first post where I had included my ignition map. I got a little more aggressive up top. I also added headers since the first post. I'm not picking up any ping however I usually run 93 octane (m+r)/2.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528914515.png