Thanks Kevin, that would be great. Since this is essentially a linkage part, I don't want to still have shifting issues if it is out of spec. I don't know any better, but it has wear, and the other fork does not.

Would you use these bearings?
 

Pete Z advises against any non-Porsche bearings in a gearbox unless an SKF or FAG equivalent is available. Unfortunately Pelican didn't have all the bearings I wanted; and regardless I had to hold off on the diff case bearings as I was on the fence about who would repair the case. Ideally these would come from the machine shop, so the new races could get pressed in by them.

Well, long story short I ordered the diff case bearings from the machine shop, these are German made, by LDT apparently. The input shaft bearing looks OK, with a metal cage. The big important pinion shaft bearing however, has a cage made of some kind of plastic-y material. This bearing was not cheap, and I don't like how it looks at all. But what do I know?

Worth mentioning, the machine shop is the official Wevo dealer and sales/service for Singer in BeNeLux, so they are as high-end as they come, and these are their standard bearings for all ther gearbox work. They said that these are what they use in everything from race boxes to 100K mile street machines, so I went ahead and had them install the races. I just don't like the looks of this bearing though... input please:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512071624.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512071624.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512071624.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512071624.JPG

I must admit that I've never seen an LDT bearing. Have you called a couple of Porsche dealerships in your part of the world and asked if they use that make of bearing?

If you haven't seen one, that concerns me!

In the past my P-center has always quoted only genuine parts, so I seriously doubt it. LDT appears to be a big bearing manufacturer, but that doesn't make me feel better about this particular unit. Am I justified in being concerned about the bearing cage on this one?

The input shaft bearings (both ends) also came from the machine shop and look more robust. Diff end is LDT, and main case end bearing is made by SEB. Boy am I glad everything else is coming from Pelican is Porsche or FAG! Have a look, I went with the smaller 930 and '84-on bearing for the diff side of the input shaft.

New vs. old input shaft bearing (main case.) Gold colored is the new one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512079382.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512079382.JPG

New input shaft bearing at the diff case. Its the smaller bearing used in 930's and Carreras.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512079382.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512079382.JPG

...

LDT
Lager- und Dichtungstechnik GmbH
Kugellager - Wälzlager - Lagerungen - Dichtungen und Gehäuse :: LDT Lager- und Dichtungstechnik GmbH:Â*LDT

The TVP suffix indicates a bearing cage of glass-fiber reinforced polyamide. Excellent elasticity and low abrasion qualities, limited in extreme thermal applications.
The E suffix indicates high capacity and load rating.
The C3 suffix indicates operational clearance > standard.

Those glass cages have been common for a while now. Porsche themselves uses them on the pinion bearings for 996 and 997 GT3.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512094455.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512094455.jpg
I don’t put a whole lot of stock in brand or country anymore though I will still generally favor a German one. However on the Cup Cars we still only use the metal care bearings because of the heat thing Jon mentioned.

Evan if you wish to message me the shop’s name I’ll tell you what I think of their industry expertise. I suspect you are being steered correctly.

Thanks Jon! Now I've learned something.
I looked up polyamide bearing cages and found a lot of info on the SKF site about their bearings. It looks like these should tolerate 100C-115C with hypoid gear oil if the polyamide cage is fiberglass reinforced.


Thanks Matt! I replied to your PM but your inbox is full. Info on the shop below, I am happy with them and there is no reason not to share that.

Thanks for asking Pete. While I learn about bearings, I need to share the work done on my diff case!

There are no shops in Norway that do specialty diff case work. I finally decided to just pony up the cash and send the case off to TwinSpark racing in Holland. As mentioned above these guys are high-end and I have only good things to say about them. I have to mention that they let me choose if I wanted their bearings or not, and I picked theirs. So any doubts I have are my own fault.

TwinSpark are the European dealer for Wevo, and Singer. No slouches obviously. The diff case mod they offer is the Wevo insert, where the case is CNC machined to accept a steel bridle that will hold the new bearings. This bridle utilizes the smaller input shaft bearing from 930's and '84-on Carreras. Pics:

Case machined for the Wevo insert:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512160710.JPG


Insert in place with races installed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512161061.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512161061.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512161061.JPG

Nice! Add a one piece retainer and you are set.

Of course ;)
Ordered one from Matt at Guard along with my new gears. Pics when I reassemble!

Did someone say one piece bearing retainer? Beautiful piece from Guard. I took Gordo's advice and froze the bearings and put the retainer in the oven. I got the big bearing mostly seated and the small one stuck halfway. So much for that. Dropped the whole thing in my shop press, and the bearings slid home with no drama.

This thing is jewellery!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513205249.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513205249.JPG

So I finally got all my parts from our host and wasted no time in starting to assemble. In two evenings I've gone from this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266174.JPG


To this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266249.JPG



All the major bearings are new (not the needle bearings though) plus all syncros, 1-2 and 3-4 sliders, circlips, etc. In case you missed my earlier posts, I've swapped out 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with new ratios from Guard, while keeping stock 1st and 5th:

2nd: 2.056
3rd: 1.550
4th: 1.174


More jewellery, this is the fixed 3rd:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266480.JPG

I did have one solitary bit of drama, however...

It was so worth the price of the specialty tool for removing the 1st gear dog teeth, piece of cake:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266806.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266806.JPG


And it seemed to be going fine pressing on the new dogs...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513266929.JPG


Except that when the dog was about 2mm from bottoming out on the gear, there was a loud CRACK and I thought, oh @#!$%, I busted the dog ring. Now mind you, I had quadruple checked that it was going on straight. So I took the gear out of the press, and that loud bang was just the dog ring suddenly sliding into place and hitting bottom. When I looked at the top of the ring I found the the fit was so tight that some material got machined off the inside of the dog ring. Its completely flat to the gear all the way around, and I was able to just blow the shrapnel out. A close-up inspection revealed that everything was lined up, so I decided to stop stressing about it. NOTE TO FUTURE SELF: heat up the dog ring next time to ensure that it just slides right on, this was way too tight a fit! (This is the updated R&S ring with the backcut.)

PS. the gear looks oily in the photos as I took some of these after hitting the gear with rust inhibitor, in case I didn't get to reassemble right away. The gear and dog ring were COMPLETELY degreased, clean and dry on assembly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513267240.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513267240.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513267240.JPG

After the gear cluster is in position, but BEFORE you install the TOB guide tube with seal, make sure that you tape the clutch splines on the M/S (electrical tape works great) so you don't cut the new seal!!!

Will do Peter, thanks!

Worth noting is Gordo's great thread about getting everything assembled when you're using a one piece bearing retainer. The thread is here.

As Gordo writes, you have to get the mainshaft together with the bearing retainer on it first, then insert the pinion shaft into the bearing retainer, through the inner bearing race and 4th gear all at once. See his thread for more detail on this, but I found a much easier way way to do this. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures as I was unsure how it would work, but it turned out great. Basically, with my mainshaft holding tool in the vice, I set this up so the mainshaft was pointing straight up (rear/clutch end towards the ceiling.) I let the pinion shaft hang from the one-piece retainer. Probably not great for the 4 point bearing on the mainshaft, but oh well. This meant that the front end of the pinion shaft was pointing towards the floor, with enough clearance from my vice that I could slip parts upward onto the shaft.

I then set the fixed 4th gear on my bench facing upwards, as it would go on the pinion shaft. I then placed the outer race for the 4 point bearing on top of the gear, in the upwards position it would have on the shaft. I hit both the race and the gear center with my propane torch for about 15 seconds to get them hot, picked them up together with welding gloves, and slid them upwards on the pinion shaft, wiggling past the 3-4 slider. They slid right into place together, and bam! Done. Then the rest of the pinion shaft install was textbook.

Here is a pic I took tonight of how I setup the shafts in the vice. You'll have to imagine that the pinion shaft is hanging from the bearing retainer with no gears on it. You heat up the fixed 4th gear with the 4 point inner race on top of it, get them hot, then slide them upwards on the pinion shaft into place. Piece of cake!


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513287393.JPG

Last post for tonight.

I need some guidance please. Tonight I installed the front bearing races in the center housing per Mr. Z's tutorial. The depth rings are flush below the retainer rings, but maybe a mm or two from bottomed out in the housing. As you see they sit at quite different depths. The old races were similar to this as well, but I'll put it to the experts for evaluation... is this how the races should sit?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1513288347.jpg

Anyone? SmileWavy

Sorry
 

Checked my rebuild photo's and didn't have any at that angle / profile showing if the races were similarly flush. I don't recall noticing a difference, but then again, I don't think I looked at them from that perspective.

Off the cuff - if the races are seated correctly (firmly seated against the retainers), I'm not sure what you could possibly do to adjust them if they were in fact somehow incorrectly aligned. As such, I tend to think they are correct.

Your work, parts and assembly are top notch - keep it up.

Good luck,

Gordo