Torque wrench(es) recommendations?

[911SCRVA]

Hi everyone. I've got some projects on my list and I'm wondering what you'd recommend for torque wrenches. Most commonly needed. Do I need a 1/4", 3/8" and a 1/2" or just one or two of them? What brands do you like? Should I consider digital?

Thanks in advance.

[yelcab1]

All three. Get a nice set of three from good brands like Gearwrench. Expect to spend $100 each for quality. Precision Instruments is also really good. Treat them well, keep them calibrated, and they will last for years.

[proporsche]

i use both... Snap On and Matco...click and digital..i like more the clicking types;-)

Ivan

[yelcab1]

You need 1/4 inch if you are doing anything in the range of 5-20 Nm, Like valve covers, spark plugs, etc...

[kevingross]

It all depends on what you plan to do with them, what needs you have. If you're just changing wheels occasionally, a decent quality 1/2" drive is where to begin. If you're getting into more serious maintenance and repair, a 3/8" drive will be needed (and should serve you just fine for spark plugs). You really won't need a 1/4" drive wrench unless you get into some fairly specific work needing accuracy with small torque values.

I do race prep/service/reman of transmissions and own more torque wrenches than any sane person should, from 1/4" through 3/4" drive click style as well as wand style and the funky gauge unit you see in the workshop manuals for measuring bearing preload. They all have their uses in my niche. Almost all come from Snap-on and I get Nm rather than ft-lb graduation because that's the world I live in.

[Tremelune]

How does one keep them calibrated? I'm still rocking one I bought decades ago...

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

How does one keep them calibrated? I'm still rocking one I bought decades ago...

Electronic torque meter.

[Neven911]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

How does one keep them calibrated? I'm still rocking one I bought decades ago...

There should be service people near you that can check your wrench, I just had my snapon checked after 30 years and it's still accurate but its a deflecting beam type.
If you have a spring type then it is imperative that you release the pressure on the spring by setting it back to 0 after use.
I'm old school and like things mechanical but was told by the torque wrench technician that you should go digital

Cheers Neven

[Zuffenwerker]

Matco flex head click type micrometer torque wrenches. Get all 3. Whatever brand you decide on get a flex head!

Daniel

[Gordo2]

My 2...

I wouldn't bother getting a 1/4" drive torque wrench. If you are working in this low of a torque range - use a 1/4" screw driver style tool with socket and tighten the fastener to feel. Difficult to over-tighten to the point of stripping threads using this method (i.e. method to tighten valve cover nuts).

For all but the highly unusual (*maybe you should consider a pro) 911 projects - you need 2 torque wrenches: one for smaller fasteners (up to ~ M13 bolts & nuts), and one for larger, higher torque fasteners (i.e. lug nuts). This often leads to buying a 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive torque wrenches.

Ultimately you want to use a torque wrench that has your required torque setting (ex. 22 ft-lbs for spark plugs) in the middle of the wrench's range. For spark plugs I use a Proto 3/8" drive torque wrench that has a 16 to 80 ft-lb range. For lug nuts (~94 ft-lb spec.), I use a Proto 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 30 to 150 ft-lb range.

Bottom line, if you are into working on vehicles - you should get 2 torque wrenches that cover lower (up to ~ 80 ft-lb) and upper (to ~ 150 ft-lbs) torque ranges.

If you run into a project that requires a specific torque setting higher or lower - then you are probably ready to buy other tools as needed...

Good luck,

[Jeff Alton]

Depending on what you are doing you may want/need a digital one that can also do angle. May fasteners are torque + angle. We use Snap-On digital in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Our 3/4 inch one is a click type. Used for axle bolts and centerlock wheels.

Cheers

[merlinfe]

There was a video on torque wrenches that Donut Media just released not too long ago. I realize they are not everyone's cup of tea, but the three torque wrenches they reviewed brought up some good points.

I personally find the click type torque wrenches to be the best in terms of feel. Trying to see the screen of a digital torque wrench gets very difficult in some spots. If you are dead set on a digital, try to find one that beeps when you reach your programmed torque.

Pay once for quality torque wrenches. They will last you a lifetime.

- Steve

[David Inc.]

I would only do 3/8 and 1/2 unless you're getting into little engine stuff. Typically you can find a 3/8 with a wide enough spread to do things even like valve covers. I've been wrenching for 15 years now and only just now bought a 1/4 to do rocker shafts.

I'd also recommend a digital one like the one in the below link as it can back-check torque on your wrenches and also serve as a stand in for when your torque wrench doesn't quite fit the application.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-Digital-Adapter-Audible-ARM602-4A/dp/B07DV33XJ5/ref=asc_df_B07DV33XJ5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13145327089561300707&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016798&hvtargid=pla-571314887956&th=1

[Quicksilver]

And this is where I go off in a different direction...
I have 3 "clicky" torque wrenches and I rarely use them. I almost always use one of my 'bendy-beam' torque wrenches. Assuming that you checked their calibration when new, don't physically abuse them, and know how to use them: They cannot go out of calibration.
- The Young Modulus if steel doesn't change over time so they remain accurate.
- They will give you a breakaway torque for bolts so during tear down you can see if something has started to fail so you can identify things that need closer inspection.
- They give you a greater "feel" during assembly as the final torque involves more handle movement. This can help you tell if something isn't going together right with a fastener so you can stop and figure it out before it is put into service and possibly fails.

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by Neven911

...you should go digital

Cheers Neven

No. The batteries always die when you need them. Taking the batteries out after each use is a pain in the butt. The balanced beam type (like some snap on and Precision Instrument) offers fast setting and never needs batteries.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver

And this is where I go off in a different direction...
I have 3 "clicky" torque wrenches and I rarely use them. I almost always use one of my 'bendy-beam' torque wrenches. Assuming that you checked their calibration when new, don't physically abuse them, and know how to use them: They cannot go out of calibration.
- The Young Modulus if steel doesn't change over time so they remain accurate.
- They will give you a breakaway torque for bolts so during tear down you can see if something has started to fail so you can identify things that need closer inspection.
- They give you a greater "feel" during assembly as the final torque involves more handle movement. This can help you tell if something isn't going together right with a fastener so you can stop and figure it out before it is put into service and possibly fails.

I like these ones as well but I've had way too many instances where I couldn't use them because of access, either for the wrench itself or my head to look at the scale. When that happens I get out the clicker and after a while I stop reaching for the beam-type.

[Showdown]

I really like the digital ones that have a series of audible beeps that let you know when you’re getting close to, and hit your set torque specifications. There are times when I can’t see the handle of the torque wrench and I’m focused on something else and getting those audible alarms really helps.

[TeeJayHoward]

The cheapest (Pittsburgh?) of the click-type Harbor Freight torque wrenches is actually really good. $25-ish, if I recall correctly. Like all clickers, make sure you back it completely off when you're done using it - otherwise, you'll need to recalibrate it more than once a decade.

Get the 1/2" drive. It'll function for 99% of what you'll ever torque down. I haven't used my 3/8" torque wrench in over a decade. And I don't even own a 1/4" torque wrench. I just snug those bolts down as I feel is appropriate.

[Jeff Alton]

The best digital wrenches have a lighted segment that works like a shift light on a racecar to show you when you are approaching set torque value or angle. They also will vibrate and beep when set torque is reached. Then show you the final torque number you achieved.

Cheers

[Walt Fricke]

The only significant use I have had for a 1/4" torque wrench is for rocker shafts when they need to be R&R'd with the engine in the car due to some need which showed up while running the engine - shaft moved, rocker broke. And only because you can get a much smaller head (and get a long handled one) so you can use them under those conditions. A typical L shaped Allen will usually do, but the torque you can get with one is pretty limited.

When reassembling an engine, full rebuild or top end, you can use a 3/8" wrench with typical extenders to get at the shaft fasteners if you do things in a sensible sequence for this approach.

To be sure, it is nice to have spiffy torque wrenches. I sometimes drool. But for your own car, infrequently, one has to inquire about the marginal value involved.



For spark plugs and valve cover nuts, you don't really need a torque wrench.