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Cold start/idle issue. 77 911S
Hi. Recently bought a 77 911S. Has the original 2,7. Rebuilt some time ago, with SSI headers and 964?? cams. Sweet car and engine. Starts and runs great when warm.
Starting cold, not so good. Very predictable, but, I have to give it some throttle and it fires up. Wonīt idle for about a minute. Shuts right of. With the throttle i can keep it steady at 1000 rpm. After about a minute, with the same amount of throttle it suddenly (takes about 5 seconds) revs up to about 2000 rpm. I can then let the throttle go and it idles fine. Rides a bit jerky until fully warmed up. Especially around 2000-2500 rpmīs. Some backfires, especially when changing gears at lowish rpmīs. Porsche shop, checked fuel pressures, when i bought it. Not so good. Changed accumulator and fuel pump. Pressures fine after. Where do I start looking? |
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If you plan to work on your CIS yourself, then I would recommend getting a fuel pressure gauge set so that you can perform the cold/warm fuel pressure test. My 77 performs somewhat like yours and I know my cold pressure is a bit high, not much of an issue in Florida. The warm up regulator controls the fuel pressure during warm up. Lots of good threads on this forum and info on the web.
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77 911s 16 981gts |
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might be fuel accumulator..
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New parts.......
Without a CIS pressure gauge, you will be spending a lot of time doing guess-work troubleshooting to identify your problem/s. Do yourself a favor and invest on a good pressure gauge kit. Search for a recent post by 'Antares', he bought a set of pressure gauge that I would recommend to people to have. Keep us posted.
Tony |
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the gauge set will pay for itself if it saves you ONE trip to the shop
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Also....a wideband o2 to measure the A/F mix is a handy tool.
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[B]Current projects: 69-911.5, Previous:73 911X (off to SanFrancisco/racing in Germany).77 911S (NY), 71E (France/Corsica), 66-912 ( France), 1970 914X (Wisconsin) 76 911S roller..off to Florida/Germany RGruppe #669 http://www.x-faktory.com/ |
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I have a 77s as well. If you have to give it throttle to fire up then your cold start valve is bad; it's not squirting the fuel in at startup. You don't need throttle to start CIS, even if the car dies right after, it should start and run for a second only the cold start gas.
That being said, it sounds like there's more going on here. You may also have issues with your WUR. I hate CIS personally, and the minute I have a problem with mine I'm ripping it out and putting in the x-faktory ITBs
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Steve '66 912 - Polo Red; '74 911s - Silver Carrera RS clone '77 911s - Peru red IROC Clone '89 964 C4 - Guards red |
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Without using the throttle, will the engine start and immediately die? If so, your CSV is working. It's not clear in your post that you are using the throttle to get initial firing of the engine or to just keep it running. This is an important distinction. Even if the CSV is not working, once started and running, your use of the throttle to keep the engine at idle is indicative of another issue, likely out of spec cold control pressure--that's why you need a gauge set before anything else. The CSV only works when the start circuit is engaged, meaning when the engine is being rotated by the starter motor. Once you let the key move from the START position, the CSV stops injecting fuel. Let us know about the cold start without the throttle. Does the engine fire and immediately die?
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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"Recently bought a 77 911S". Not sure about the '77 but is there the cold start lever between the seats like my '74? Maybe something basic like the cold start procedure? Lift lever, start car. No insult intended. Just checking.
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Tony 1973 914 2.2 FAT Black 1974 911 Targa Lime Green 2018 Macan GTS White 2019 Targa GTS Agate Grey |
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Hand lever ended with the 75 model year, as did the fuel pump running with ignition switched to ON, before start. From '76 on, cold start was "automated" and the fuel pump relay was added.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 07-01-2017 at 12:54 PM.. |
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But, like you say, there is most likely another issue. I have to give some throttle to keep it running for the first minute or so after starting. With the throttle I can keep it steady at 1000 rpmīs. After about a minute, while keeping the throttle in the same position, it revs up to about 2000 rpmīs. I can then let go of the throttle and it idles fine. Runs a little jerky on low rpmīs until fully warm. I will be getting fuel pressure gauges, but if there is anything I can try until then, (without changing expensive parts at random) advise would be appreciated
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While you're awaiting the gauge set, you might try to see if you are getting voltage to the CSV--don't know if you've checked for that. Remember, you will get voltage only if the key is in the START position. If you get voltage to the CSV connector, next check that you are getting a ground connection from the thermo-time switch when engine is cold. You need both readings at the CSV for it to work.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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giving it throttle to start really does not mean anything especially if you have to keep giving it throttle to keep it running.
if you have to stay on the throttle after starting you have a mixture problem, period. if you have a mixture problem it will be hared to start, period. trouble is figuring out why you have a mixture problem
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Finally ready for some garage time. Winter has arrived
![]() Had to drive it home, after an alignment, on summer tires, in this; ![]() Scary! Havenīt really done anything to the car as it runs fine after warm-up. What Iīve learned; Had fuel pressures checked, warm and cold is ok. I have a new fuel pump and accumulator. CSV is OK, wur has power. I DO have one or more air leaks. At least at one or more of the injectors. (Ordered new seals and sleves) No change to idle when removing oil-tank lid. Problem has been getting worse as the weather has become colder. Starts ok, but wont hold idle unless i feather the throttle. Lately its been running rough until warm, sometimes not on all cylinders. Backfires more. But stil fine when warm. Could my problems be caused by air-leaks alone?
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-------- 1977 911s |
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Removing the oil cap on a 77 won't make a difference in idle- if you look at the hoses going to the oil fill, you'll see that one hose is going right to the unmetered air filter side of the air box. It's only later model cars were the idle changes.
Yes, air leaks can and are a huge determination on how well the system works. Air leaks will cause a lean condition. It would be prudent to find and fix all leaks before you worry about pressures. Do a few searches and you'll find procedures for hunting down leaks. Here's a great thread- second post has some links for trouble shooting. CIS Troubleshooting for Dummies
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Rutager West 1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown |
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So changing my oil-cap was futile
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-------- 1977 911s |
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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