Installing new Fuel Filter + Accumulator

[garment]

Hello Pelicans:

Is there an order of operations to install a new FA and filter?

I attached the FA to the bracket, and then the 3 fuel lines to the FA. Then installed the filter to the bracket, and the rest of the fuel likes (hard line to the top middle port of the FA, and to the bottom of the filter). Space is tight, tried to crank all the lines down as much as possible, still had a fuel leak and I am airing out the garage right now. The line at the top of the filter seemed to be most loose (I definitely didn't crank that one down enough). Retightened and yes, used a hold-back box wrench to tighten all lines. Any tricks I should be aware of? I've replaced my filter (only) once without incident, didn't have any issues then that I remember...

Please send on advice, thanks, Pelicans!

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Hello - take a look at the link below to our site's DIY tech article on the procedure. Please let us know if you have any questions.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/05-Fuel_Filter_Accum/05-Fuel_Filter_Accum.htm

[garment]

Closing the loop here - it's just a tight space that requires one to adjust angles, contort one's body, use combinations of different length wrenches, and generally curse your way through, until you can tighten the 17 and 19MM connections. I must have felt about each of the connections 50 times with the fuel pump running until I was satisfied that there were no leaks.

[targa80]

A partial engine drop will provide more working space. Just be careful to support the engine and stressing any of the hose lines.

[BoxsterGT]

Loosen all the connections and tighten all of them a little at a time so they are all comfortable with each other.

Len

[Gretz]

Any tips for loosening the bolts? After 36 years they are holding on very tight. I sprayed them with some PB Blaster and left them overnight. Will check tomorrow afternoon. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[BoxsterGT]

With Fuel fittings, good quality "Flare Nut" wrenches are a must. You may even have to modify one of them to get in there to take this apart.

There is a huge tolerance difference between quality of wrenches as we all have found out. I have a few modified ones that are good for only one job, but essential for that job.

Good luck.

Len

[Gretz]

Thanks, Len. I do have a couple flare nut wrenches and am using them where I can. I’m not having any slipping, and all the wrenches fit correctly, it’s mainly the space limitations that make this job more difficult than expected. I’m a decently strong guy and I’m feeling weak because the connections just won’t budge. Welp, I’ll give it another shot after work today.

[LIRS6]

Originally Posted by Gretz

Thanks, Len. I do have a couple flare nut wrenches and am using them where I can. I’m not having any slipping, and all the wrenches fit correctly, it’s mainly the space limitations that make this job more difficult than expected. I’m a decently strong guy and I’m feeling weak because the connections just won’t budge. Welp, I’ll give it another shot after work today.

If u haven't tried this, position the wrenches such that you are squeezing them together to loosen. That worked for me. I used same procedure when tightening.

[BoxsterGT]

Very good point, RS6. Some gloves (not rubber) may help as well.

[garment]

Originally Posted by LIRS6

If u haven't tried this, position the wrenches such that you are squeezing them together to loosen. That worked for me. I used same procedure when tightening.

+1 on this, it's a must.

[Gretz]

Good advice, thanks. One thing that didn’t occur to me previously is that I suppose I can remove both units together from the brackets holding them in the engine compartment to get more room and access to the fittings. Any reason I shouldn’t do that? One of my issues is that I have limited angles/positions for the wrenches.

[BoxsterGT]

The workbench is a much better place to do this.

[Gretz]

One more question:

After I install the new FA and filter in my 82 SC, what’s the best way to get the fuel pump circulating fuel so I can check for fuel leaks? Will the pump turn on with the ignition on but engine not started?

[Gretz]

Bumping this- what’s the best way to get the fuel filter running to test for leaks? Lift the air sensor plate in the airbox? I haven’t done that before. I assume you just remove the lid and filter from the airbox and reach in and lift the plate for a second? Any guidance you guys have would be much appreciated!

[woland]

Hi Gretz! You come from Italy? (ancora imparo).
I didn't found any issue while changin' filter & accu
Avoid turning the engine with loosen screws: You can spit fuel over sparks or connectors.
Simply tight correctly everything and fill the two things turning the starter motor until the engine fires.

[Gretz]

Haha not from Italy, but I’ve visited and it’s beautiful!

You are saying just make sure everything is tight and turn the ignition until enough fuel moves through to start the engine? I was hoping for a way to check for leaks without starting the engine and potentially causing a fire. Any ideas?

[BoxsterGT]

Yes, lift the air sensor plate, but just enough to have fuel flow. You should hear the squeal from the system once fuel is there. Too much and you will flood the motor.

Len

[Gretz]

Finally got everything apart and removed. The fitting at the bottom of the fuel filter (which had a 1992 manufacture date) is a bit mangled since apparently no one uses flare nut wrenches. Considering replacing it. Can anyone link me to the replacement metal line between the FA and FF? Can’t seem to find it on our host’s site. Here’s a pic although I’m sure we all know which one I’m talking about.

[BoxsterGT]

Had one hanging on the wall for 5+ years.

Its yours, just send me your address via email.

Len dot Cummings at verizon dot com




Oooops, MY MISTAKE,,, Should be verizon dot net

Sorry