need advice on engine stand

[Norm Faustino]

does anyone know if i can get away with using a regular 4 bolt engine stand to rebuild my 3.0 liter SC engine? I want to ask a crazy question of anyone who is willing to trust me, and that is...
if anyone out there has the yoke that bolts to the 911 engine and subsequently to the engine stand and is willing to rent it to me I will return it to you upon completion (about 3 -4 weeks)I would be greatful if anyone could come through on this.

thanks.
Norm

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78 Super Carrera

[Early_S_Man]

Norm,

Yes, you can use a 'regular' 4-arm engine stand of the 'under $100 variety to hold and rebuild a 811 engine! That is precisely what Jack McAllister and Leland Pate did earlier in the year!

Jack did NOT have to do any special grinding or fitting to get the stand from Summit Racing to work:

www.summitracing.com
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 11-01-2001).]

[cds72911]

Norm,

Others here have used the four arm type with success. I tried and couldn't find a way to make it fit and still feel safe that it wouldn't fall (I didn't want to destroy an expensive engine), so I bought one of the porsche specific yokes and am using it on my four caster generic base. I figure it will pay for itself over time.

I purchased just the yoke with flywheel clamp. Not buying the porsche specific clamp too saved a chunk of change. I think the yoke is made by a specialty tools manufacturer rather than by Hazet or Stallwille, but it seems to be fine for my needs.

The 3.0 didn't want to fit on the porsche style yoke with the stock heat exchangers installed. I removed the cross piece and it fit fine. Others suggested grinding the notch (there is a notch to clear the joint where the crossove pipe connects) larger. Since I am going with SSIs I decided to just remove the old heat exchangers.

Pelican sells the yokes. There are other places you can get them too, but Wayne would probably ban me if I told you. The Pelican price is pretty competitive and you're supporting the board if you buy it here.

A couple of notes, in case you haven't searched the archives. You need spacers if you're going to use the factory tranny mounting bolts to the yoke. Also the yoke goes on the left side of the engine as viewed from the flywheel. (Thanks to Roland and John Walker for those tips!)

I'd lend you mine but with the new house, baby, and life I am not going to get my engine off the stand until mid-winter at the earliest (probably spring is more likely).

Charlie

[RarlyL8]

I have modified a regular engine stand as well. My engine is pictured on it in Mark's Porsche Gallery. The entire thing set me back $35.

[rvanderpyl]

Option 1. If you can afford it buy the porsche one and use it with a cheap engine stand, it lets you have the fly wheel mounted and mount/remove it, it's solid and attaches at more points. If you can't or don't want to spring the bucks for something you will probably use once then you can use a standard stand.

Second option, buy the porsche stand, use it and then sell it on e-bay or here. You can probably resell it for enough that the difference could be considered a 'rental' charge.

I think I am going to go this route as I have learned from bitter experience that buying the cheap tool always cost more in the long run.

Robert

[Hatari]

For infrequent use and/or non-professional, check this one too...
http://www.homier.com/default.asp?page=categories.asp?dept=2

item 03014

I bought their engine hoist and it is fine for non-pro use.

Jack McAllister

[Rot 911]

I used a regular engine stand, modified as shown in a pic by RarlyL8, with no problems.

Kurt V

[Jim Sims]

I purchased a $49 (including shipping) 1000 lb rating engine stand from Harbor Freight. I had to drill four new holes in the arms and swapped out a few critical fasteners to ensure they were quality SAE grade 5 or 8. One other important point is to use aluminum or brass stepped or notched spacers between the engine stand arm stand off tubes and the case. If this is not done the raised tongue or lip on the case that registers into the transmission can be damaged by concentrated loading from the arm stand off tubes. This type of damage is even more likely with the magnesium alloy cases. The spacers should look like thick washers with one side milled thinner to clear the tongue. Jim

[Jim Sims]

I purchased a $49 (including shipping) 1000 lb rating engine stand from Harbor Freight. I had to drill four new holes in the arms and swapped out a few critical fasteners to ensure they were quality SAE grade 5 or 8. One other important point is to use aluminum or brass stepped or notched spacers between the engine stand arm stand off tubes and the case. If this is not done the raised tongue or lip on the case that registers into the transmission can be damaged by concentrated loading from the arm stand off tubes. This type of damage is even more likely with the magnesium alloy cases. The spacers should look like thick washers with one side milled thinner to clear the tongue. Jim

[Jim Sims]

I used a $49 (included shipping) 1000 lb rated stand from Harbor Freight. Once the heater boxes are on the engine one can't rotate it 360 degrees and of course the flywheel can't be accessed but it works fine otherwise. I had to drill four new holes in the support arms and swapped out a few fasteners to ensure they were quality SAE grade 5. I recommend using stepped brass or aluminum spacers between the engine stand suport arm stand off tubes and the case to protect the raised lip on the case that registers into the transmission. This is especially important with the magnesium alloy cases. The spacers look like a thick washer with one side milled thinner to clear the lip. Jim

[Norm Faustino]

Wow! lots of great suggestions, thanks to all who responded. I got enough votes of confidence on the regular stand so I think I'll go with that one. I'll let you guys know how the rebuild plays out in the next couple of weeks, thanks again guys... arr! arr! arr!

Norm

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78 Super Carrera

[yelcab1]

Norm

If you are in the Bay Area, you are welcome to borrow my Porsche engine yolk, and the $35 engine stand on which the yolk fits. I used in twice, never felt sorry for paying the price. My motto: the right tools save half the time, half the effort, and all of your marriage.

If you are not in the SF Bay area, oh well, my intention was good.