Removing Engine Tinware...

[drabels]

...While the engine is still in the car (81' 911 SC) - is it possible?

Not all of it of course, but the rear and side sections in particular (numbers 14 -> 18)



It seems like it would be possible.

Have searched the forums. I'm either blind or my search skills suck.

I vaguely remember finding a reference to someone writing that is was indeed possible.

Mine look bad (paint flaking, rusty) and I'm in the "while I'm at it" mode of thinking... But trying to avoid a full engine drop scenario.

Thanks again!

[boyt911sc]

You could remove all the engine tins with the engine installed in the car. The hardest would be #13 because of the oil cooler. And you could remove the oil cooler insitu too.

Tony

[drabels]

Good to know!

Thanks for the quick reply.

Daniel

[porschyard]

tony i agree 100% with you that all the engine tin can be removed with the engine in the car i have done it countless times over the past 35 years. but my experience with # 13 is it is the easiest of all the tins to remove,4 bolts, lift wire harness grommett(which is usally the hardest part of the removal becuase the rubber grommett is baked in place) and it slides right out. reinstall is a little more work to get the engagement tab lined up but not a big deal. i have removed that tin with the car on the ground with the wheel still installed,on a lift with the wheel removed its a breeze .this is just my opinion and experience though, richard

[drabels]

Hi Richard,

I appreciate the input!

I've started to remove the engine tin and so far, so good.

I only asked the question as I didn't want to start removing bits and pieces only to find something is blocking the full removal of the engine tin.

Regards,

Daniel

[911obgyn]

I remove 14 and 15 to make adjusting valves easier, and to clean.

[KTL]

Be careful removing the side pieces 14 and 15 because corrosion can often make the M6 steel threads seize in the camshaft housing. I've seen a number of these bolt heads broken off of cam housings that I have worked on.

Since M6 screws are pretty small and thus don't require a lot of force to break them, you may be in for a drill job. No big deal, as there's a lot of meat in the cam housing to upsize the threaded hole to M8x1.25 if need be. Just be sure to use antiseize paste when you reinstall the screws.

[porschyard]

daniel, funny we were just talking about this yesterday, a car i am working on today needed # 13 tin replaced because it was not correct and the car is an rs backdate with the correct thermostat, oil lines, and scavenge return line. it was NOT a breeze but still only took about 10 minutes to remove. richard

[drabels]

I managed to get all the pieces off without a problem, except the ones on the front of the engine - simply ran out of time for the day, so ... no problems (yet.)

Next comes the pleasurable task of scratching them all back to metal and re-painting.

[old man neri]

Originally Posted by drabels

Next comes the pleasurable task of scratching them all back to metal and re-painting.

I was about to do that. I quickly gave up and just took them to the powder coaters. They sandblasted, welded a few patches due to severe rust, and powder coated them.