Ball Pin Trailing Arm Sway Bar Options

[edjrbashian]

Hello All. My rear sway bar is missing and so are the mounts that attach to the body(torn off prior to my time with the car). My goal is to maintain the original sway bar sizing for now (20mm F/ 18 mm R) while stiffening up the torsion bars. I was wondering if you could help answer the following or give some insight

1. Is it more cost effective to source an original 74-77 rear sway bar or go with the more available SC sway bars + custom endlinks?

2. Is there an off the shelf solution to mount the SC style rear sway bars to the ball pin style trailing arm that doesn't require drilling in to the trailing arm, or welding two different style endlinks together?


'74-'77 vs '78 and later Rear Sway
Source: Dieter's Repair

I am in the middle of sourcing parts for my '75 911s suspension refresh (bushings, torsions, dampers) and your help would be really appreciated!
Ed

[Cory M]

The Tarett bars attach to the spring plates and include the adjustable drop links. I don't know if you can maintain the same 18mm rate, maybe with the bars set full soft..

[Charles Freeborn]

I have gone through all of this on my ‘74, including replacing torn off mounts. When I’m at a real computer tomorrow I’ll find the link to my write up. In short I went with later SC trailing arms, but given the choice again I’d go with the Tarretts and the original trailing arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[chrismorse]

When dad passed his 74 to me, it had no rear bar and one mount was torn off. The other mount had been sawn off.
I installed a pair of Wevo mounts and some original links and a used "Carrera" rear bar.
Subsequently, I became concerned with being able to adjust out preload on the rear bar and hoped to drill a few more holes to enable making the bar adjustable.
Both elephant and Rennsport make adjustable drop links that attach to one of the existing spring plate adjustment bolts, (forgot if it is the height or camber adj bolts).
I have yet to do the later bar install, (with adj links), but I have heard it is straightforward and by drilling a few holes in the later bar, you can gain the ability to adjust the rear roll stiffness. A good thing, particularly if you are going to change torsion bars.
I think the adjustable drop links are a cleaner and more adjustable method of dialing out bar preload, than shimming down one side of the chassis bar mount, as must be done up front, unless you go for an adjustable front bar $$$$$$.
First, I have to get the lift installed so I can get the car up in the air -- I'm done with getting down on my knees.

Chris

[edjrbashian]

Thanks for the suggestions, it looks like there are options for the rear sway and not one "go-to" .

The tarret bar is definitely tempting but want to keep original rates for the time being. Not to mention double the cost of the other options!

For SC Sway bar mounted to the Spring Plate, is there an additional extended screw required for mounting directly to the spring plate or is the stock screw long enough?

Charles I did some digging and found your post, great write up. Thanks again

[911 SLANT]

The adjustable links come with the eccentric screw.

[911 SLANT]

Here's a cheaper way to go. This way you can use stock drop link.