Anyone ever seen a door stop pivot pin like this??

[Trakrat]

I'm trying to figure out if I need to hammer it out from the bottom or from the top.
This pin doesn't seem to be factory...

I don't want to mushroom it hitting too hard if I'm hammering it from the wrong end.

[Flat6pac]

I think it has a ring keeper underneath
Bruce

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I think it has a ring keeper underneath
Bruce

I looked underneath it, which is the right side in the pic (the longer section of the pin is the bottom... not sure why Windows 10 ALWAYS rotates my pics).... there is no metal tab holding it in.

It's just a hollow pin... but hard to tell if I should hammer it out from the top or bottom.

I've been hitting with a screwdriver but no joy.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I think it has a ring keeper underneath
Bruce

Here's a pic of the pin from underneath....

[ossiblue]

Logic would indicate the pin should be removed by hitting from the bottom. No obvious lip or ridge holding it in from that side. You might try inserting a nail into the hollow portion until the head butts up against the pin, then hit the nail on the head, literally.

[uwanna]

Another idea, place a C-clamp over the pin with a small socket over the
top of the pin and crank the clamp to force the pin out. Might just work.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by ossiblue

Logic would indicate the pin should be removed by hitting from the bottom. No obvious lip or ridge holding it in from that side. You might try inserting a nail into the hollow portion until the head butts up against the pin, then hit the nail on the head, literally.

THIS DID IT!!! found a very long nail that gave me enough room to hammer it off.


Apparently its not even a pin... just a piece of metal strip that someone rolled up into a cylinder shape and used it as a pin. no wonder it took such force.

Ahh... the joys of PO shortcuts...

[faverymi]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Another idea, place a C-clamp over the pin with a small socket over the
top of the pin and crank the clamp to force the pin out. Might just work.

I really like your idea

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Another idea, place a C-clamp over the pin with a small socket over the
top of the pin and crank the clamp to force the pin out. Might just work.

thanks... I saw this technique used in another thread... unfortunately the 'pin' was too tight inside and I couldn't squeeze it out any further.

[porsche930dude]

Its factory. Its called a roll pin. being rolled up spring steel

[ossiblue]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

THIS DID IT!!! found a very long nail that gave me enough room to hammer it off.


Apparently its not even a pin... just a piece of metal strip that someone rolled up into a cylinder shape and used it as a pin. no wonder it took such force.

Ahh... the joys of PO shortcuts...

Funny, my first post to you was to mention that I thought it was a roll pin--which sounds like what you're describing--but I edited it out and just suggested the nail. Glad it all worked for you.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by porsche930dude

Its factory. Its called a roll pin. being rolled up spring steel

hmm... german engineering I suppose.

The more I work on this car, the more respect I have for professional Porsche mechanics/techs.

[porsche930dude]

Its actually a good thing to use because it usually stays tight. If it was a standard sort of bolt play would develop and it would pop every time you open the door.

[proporsche]

i second that from 930 dude... ..it is a factory pin..i like this pin much better then the later style...with the clip on bottom..these pins last for ever..Just have to be lubricated once an while as other things like a the door stop...
ivan

[porsche930dude]

I put them out and in with channel lock pliers. Use a nut to push it through like a press

[Uwon]

This click-click when the door opens and closes is really annoying to me. In my previous P-car is had the rolling pin version but still had the clicking sound because the holes in the stationary body side were larger by just a little bit. On top of that, I don’t think the roll pin in very attractive. Looks a bit temporary.
So, on my new build, the RST, I used the frunk hood pins with the lock clips because with the roll pin it still clicked. There is more slack, it clicks just as much (ugh), but looks more OEM. I also smoothed out the pivot arm bumps both top and bottom a little bit to reduce resistance which helped reduce the clicking.
Still looking for a non-clicking solution.
Johan

[Hellraiser]

Originally Posted by Uwon

This click-click when the door opens and closes is really annoying to me. In my previous P-car is had the rolling pin version but still had the clicking sound because the holes in the stationary body side were larger by just a little bit. On top of that, I don’t think the roll pin in very attractive. Looks a bit temporary.
So, on my new build, the RST, I used the frunk hood pins with the lock clips because with the roll pin it still clicked. There is more slack, it clicks just as much (ugh), but looks more OEM. I also smoothed out the pivot arm bumps both top and bottom a little bit to reduce resistance which helped reduce the clicking.
Still looking for a non-clicking solution.
Johan

[IMG]http://www.st- classic .com/resources/%24%28KGrHqEOKpIE7FKNBt7SBRfw0%21u3Z%21~~60_57.JPG[/ IMG]

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by Uwon

This click-click when the door opens and closes is really annoying to me. In my previous P-car is had the rolling pin version but still had the clicking sound because the holes in the stationary body side were larger by just a little bit. On top of that, I don’t think the roll pin in very attractive. Looks a bit temporary.
So, on my new build, the RST, I used the frunk hood pins with the lock clips because with the roll pin it still clicked. There is more slack, it clicks just as much (ugh), but looks more OEM. I also smoothed out the pivot arm bumps both top and bottom a little bit to reduce resistance which helped reduce the clicking.
Still looking for a non-clicking solution.
Johan

UWON,
Here's a copy and paste of a post of mine. The procedure shown just may help with your click problem. I know you smoothed the "bumps"
but this removes a bit more of the tension on the bumps. I did it to
a stop and it seem to work.

There is a great fix for the newer units that is much better than fileing down the "humps". The pics are self explanatory. Makes them less stiff and much easier on open and close.(and on the door sheet metal)
Pics are not mine, but found on a Google search from another good Pelican. I have however done the procedure, and it works great!






[/QUOTE]

[TheSt|G]

Good time to reinforce the stock door stays so they don't rip through the sheet metal.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Good time to reinforce the stock door stays so they don't rip through the sheet metal.

yep... I've taken my door panel hardware off.. and WOW... it amazes me to notice that obviously a PO has done this before.

It's just SHOCKING to think that there hasn't been any place YET I have opened up or worked on that hasn't already been messed with.