Backdating heat question

[Wout_RS]

Hi guys,

I'm busy backdating the heat on my 1980 SC.
This is the situation at the moment:


The engine heat blower is gone, uninstalled it last weekend.
My question is can I use the indicated part in the backdating process?

I would like to connect a tube from the left heat exchanger to that part.
But the diameter of different.

For the right side I have to order a new part.

Thanks!

[SkiVT]

I used a piece of metal reducer pipe and clamps. This isnt a great picture but you get the idea. I believe I just measured the diameter of the connecting ends and then found or ordered the reducer pipe. It was several years ago so I dont rememder where I got the reducer pipe but probably exhaust pipe.

[SkiVT]

I used aircraft SCAT duct hose to connect everything, as suggested in severalnother backdate threads. You will need that to route the air through the heat exchangers and then to the flapper boxes. Very easy project once all the parts arrive......

[Dodge Man]

Drivers side is a little more work to clean up. Save your old parts so you can go back or a satisfy picky buyer.

Get a backdate "exit" duct for drivers side. Note dizzy clearance.
Get the old small drivers side "square" engine tin with "hose hole" to pass the hose thru properly.
Get an early "center" engine tin. Solid ones are NLA so get the superseded and block off the 1 hole. You can always block off your 80 tin. I have 83 tin with multi holes so I got the new and blocked off the 1 hole.

Best of luck.

[RDM]

The drivers' side piece that has to clear the distributor generally doesn't. I had to hammer and repaint mine. and it still doesn't look that great. SkiVT's solution is a good one for that side. I wish I had gone that way.

[kavadarci]

Just did this on my 76.
For the left I bought new one, not expensive.
You want this as he angle of the current is too steep.

For the right I used existing plate, drilled a hole and made the piping myself.

[Wout_RS]

@ Kavadarci great work there!

The new one you bought, is it the older version from the f-serie 911? Who had it original?


Indeed the original one is very steep.
For a temp solution as I wanted to drive I used the old plastic hoses and I managed to bend it so it connected. But the heat was to intense and melted the thing down.

Don't understand why you need engine tin? If the hoses go trough the hole? No heat comes in? Original there wasn't more tin as now? And if I use the same diameter as hose? No problem I think?

[rwest]

Here’s a real great write up on the process:

Backdated Heat Tech Article

[Wout_RS]

Many thanks for this write up,

didn't found it in my search.
But this is the best i've read and clears all my questions.
Now I know how the heating works, I thought it runs the other way round.

[Dodge Man]

Originally Posted by RDM

The drivers' side piece that has to clear the distributor generally doesn't. I had to hammer and repaint mine. and it still doesn't look that great. SkiVT's solution is a good one for that side. I wish I had gone that way.

I got the aftermarket driver's and had to hammer dizzy clearance. I got OEM for both sides to clean up install and return a borrowed passenger duct. Installing this week since down to degree cams. Will report back on OEM dizzy clearance. I wanted mine to "look factory proper".
Many have taken the drivers side to a sheet metal shop to cut out dizzy clearance. Welding sheet metal is not easy and this part's appearance is high when you pop the bonnet.
Blocking the center tin holes keeps the road debris from getting sucked into the engine compartment. Road debris is not good for your motor and cleaning the engine BEHR is usually a motor drop.
Center tin on the PET is 901-10-085-05(no holes-carb/euro) but many suppliers try to sell 901-106-085-00(1 hole MFI) for 65-73 911 as the superseded part.
NOTE: I run non-SMOG SSIs with old school heat inlet location in a 73 body with 83 SC motor. Like the -71 T/E/S and 72- T-V, T-K.
Make yourself happy.