Time to replace oil return tubes

[MarkY]

This weekend, I'll be replacing my oil return tubes, ordered and received from Pelican. The car is a 1988, 27k miles, completely stock with the original tubes. I'm going to attempt this without removing the heat exchangers as I've read it can be done without much pain.

I have a question regarding this Dow 111 people have written about. Is it just a silicon lube, and would an auto parts store have it? Can I use motor oil if needed like the tech article states?

Another thing of interest... the tech article states "Make sure that you place the smaller end of the tube nearest to the heads. (the larger of the two tubes should go into the heads). "

I'm not sure the above sentence makes sense. I would think you would want the smaller tube inserted into the head, that way the oil will flow thru the smaller tube which is inside the larger tube. The O rings will be above where the oil is flowing thus giving a better seal.

Is this not correct?

I'm doing this on Sunday, so if anyone wants to post some last minute tips, gotchas, suggestions, or experiences, go for it.

Thanks for any help.

[Wil Ferch]

I haven't done this yet but plan to do so too. I would look at the Pelican Tech article again...and also look at the guest writer feedback on that article. There's a local guy who uses Ford A/C gater springs instead of the hard-to-install circlips...good tip !
---Wil Ferch

[LeRoux Strydom]

Use two regular hose clamps tightened on each half of the tubes. First slide the tubes together with seals lubed, and extend it by hand so it will just fit between head and case. Make sure the hose clamps are as close together as possible. Push the smaller tube half's end into the head, then pry apart the two hose clamps with a large flat screwdriver or anything else that will work. This should push the bigger tube half into the case. You may have to re-position one hose clamp or both to get leverage as the tube halves slide in.

Its a real easy job on the #3-6 side (passenger side), but you may have to remove the heat exchangers on the #1-3 drivers side to get access. This can be PITA.

Good luck

LeRoux

[RSW]

I recently did mine on my 1988 car.
I had the heat exchanger off already so it wasn't too bad at all.

I asked for advice and I was given some good advice.
Get the tubes that are gold in colour and come with green seals - apparently the other ones are a real pain to fit (I think JW advised me of that) use some good circlip pliers, that clip is strong and if you have poor quallty pliers it makes the job very tricky and frustrating.

Put the circlip on first! use engine oil on the seals and oil the tube/seals to make it collapse easier. These tubes look like they won't work but when you get them together they are quite a struggle to pull and push.

Use the hose clips as mentioned previously, when your under the car you will find you need 3 hands. One to hold the tube in the head, one to hold the tube in the case and another to tap a hammer on the circlip to fully extand the tube.

Be sure to push the tubes all the way into the ports, they should not shuffle loosly as you old tubes may currently do.

Clean the ports with a rag to remove any dirt before inserting the tubes, I think I put mine into the case first then extended them out to the heads - but my exchanger had been removed so I could be different for you.

Appart from that stick with it.
It doesn't take too long and it will cure the oil leaks.

Regards
Richard

[wckrause]

Can this be done with the heat exchangers in place? How about with SSI's?

[makaio]

I could not replace mine on the drivers side or left (cylinders 1,2,3) with the heat exchanger in place.

As for the silicone paste, yes most or should I say decent places will have it. Napa has their brand which is called sil-glide or something like it. I tried just using the motor oil, but it didn't work half as good as the silcone paste.

If you're replacing all 4 tubes I recomend purchasing 5. I demolished the first one I tried to install out of frustration, and was dead in the water for a couple days waiting for another to arrive. Not to mention you'll have extra seals if you need them.

If you ordered from Pelican, you'll get the good ones with green seals.

Do an oil change while you're at it. Or at least make sure you have extra motor oil to replenish any that leaks out.

Lastly, I recommend having a back up set of wheels if this is your daily driver, just in case you can't get it done in time for work on Monday.

Good luck, and we're here if you need support.

[Wil Ferch]

Guys:
Coupla things....
1.) Newest seals from the dealer..as confirmed by many sources includingn tech advisor Stephen Kasper ( ImagineAuto...PCNA)...is black. This is OK. Green are the "next-to-last" color.
2.) Circlips are a pain...look at using A/C gator springs instead ...as mentioned before and as listed by a guest responder to the Pelican Tech article. Again..I haven't done this but reports using these are very positive. Why make a difficult job harder ??
--Wil Ferch

[MarkY]

I can't seem to find the Dow 111 silicone lube that people talk about. Wil any silicone lube do, such as the stuff used to lube O-rings that a plumber would use?

Thx

[john walker's workshop]

silicone paste, not the spray type, is what you should use. the green seals won't slide on engine oil. an 88 doesn't have air injection plumbing under the heads, like earlier cars do, so you have just enough room to wiggle the tubes in on the left side. i use two really long needlenose pliers to hold and expand the tubes. the short tube, which is the larger diameter one, goes toward the case. position the holes in the snap ring facing down, so you can get at them. the snap ring on the left front tube needs to be on an angle to clear the oil pipe.

[Joeaksa]

Mark,

A good industrial shop will have the DC3 lube. Its well worth having.

Another tip. Get two large open wrenches. Believe 1" and 1 1/4" and make sure that they fit on your return tubes snug. Place the return tube above the exhaust and under the cylinder area and then insert the wrenches on each end of the oil tubes. Push smoothly on both wrenches at the same time and they will contact the raised portion of the oil return tube and expand it.

If you are really lazy you can do it the way I did. Use a bike or motorcycle bungee and wrap it around the two wrenches and let the constant pressure slowly expand the oil return tube until its into position with the head and the block. After doing one or two the arms and hands get tired from lack of blood and this allows you to rest and save yourself for the last push which takes some pressure. In this picture I used a vise grip lightly clamped on the tube but later found that two open wrenches work better.

Go slow and its not a big deal... not fun but not that hard either!

Joe

[Wayne 962]

Hmm, seems like a typo in the tech article. The small end of the tube should go into the cam towers, so that oil will flow from the towers down into the engine case (particularly when the car is off, and cold)...

-Wayne

[MarkY]

The job has been completed WITHOUT removing the heat exchangers. Thanks to all who offered their advice. The advice Joe offered worked great on the forward driver's side tube. I also used the silicone paste and can only imagine that it would be a nightmare without it. The hose clamp trick was used as well. Also, those clips can be a b!tch.

The job was completed (with oil change) in about 3 hours.

Thanks again for all the advice.

[Wil Ferch]

Question....
Did *anyone* use the gaitor springs instead of the awkward circlips ??
Would like some more feedback...
---Wil Ferch

[makaio]

Glad to here it went well.

[KTL]

Instead of calling around to see who carries Dow stuff, go here and Dow Corning will give you the name a of a Dow distributor nearest you.

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/howtobuy/how_to_buy.asp

[kepperly]

Has anyone got a picture of those "gator" clips that are used instead of circlips. and where do you get the gold tubes with the lastest black o rings?

Thanks Keith

[Wil Ferch]

Gator springs are used for many types of A/C fittings....circular "rings" of coiled spring steel...
---Wil Ferch

[KTL]

Similar to those spring rings used for the tie rod boots on our cars?