EECS proper disconnect/removal

[Tom68]

Apologize if this subject has been broached previously. I’m new to this forum.

Wondering if anyone has specific/detailed instructions (w/photos, drawings, sketches?) for removing the EECS from a 912.

Recently retired so I’m just now touching the 68’ 912 that came with the house I bought 16 years ago. I’m finding some questionable workmanship and oddities including missing EECS pump, control valve, compensator, etc. I just want to make sure all mods were done correctly.
Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!
Tom Haley
Lakeport CA
gpahaley@icloud.com

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Hello and welcome to the forum! I'm attaching a link to our site's DIY tech articles that can assist you with future repairs and maintenance. Our forum community is incredibly knowledgeable, so they'll likely chime in with their expertise.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911tech_articles.htm

https://www.pelicanparts.com/356/356tech_articles.htm

[WFBowen]

Tom
Can you post a few photos of your motor?
Bill

[Tom68]

Dmitry, Bill,
Thank you guys for the quick response! I saw the tech articles but nothing for 912s. Should I use the 356 section for engine and 911 for chassis? Some very rough “as found” engine pics...(the electric fuel pump was something I did, temporarily, years ago to see if it ran)
Thanks again,
Tom
Sorry, looks like the pic thing didn’t work. I’ll try again on my PC vs phone tomorrow

[Tom68]

Thank you, gentlemen, for the quick response.
I saw the tech articles, Dmitry, but since there weren't any listed for 912s I assumed there wouldn't be any information there. Going forward I'm assuming maybe I should look in 356 for engine and 911 for chassis details?
Hopefully the "as received" photos are attached here. Not sure... Please ignore the E fuel pump. That's something I tried, along with gas can and battery, 15 years ago, to see if she would run. Turned over, no smoke in the pipe. It's obvious the previous owner didn't care for this vehicle!
Thanks, again,
Tom

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

That was what I was thinking (356 pages for engine, 911 pages for chassis) - Bill will be able to assist with more specifics than I can.

Best of luck on the restoration - keep us updated with progress pics.

[WFBowen]

Tom:
First check the crankshaft pulley to see if it has two slots. If there is only one (for a single belt) then chances are that particular motor never had an air pump on it. If it does, then check the cyl. heads for what will look like bolts used to plug threaded holes near each exhaust port.
By your photos it looks like the smog equipment has been removed. Either way, pull the sparkplugs and squirt some penetrating oil in each cyl. Adjust the point gap, then set the initial timing using the static method. At this point you can disconnect the vacuum canister on the distributor and plug the hole that feeds it on the base of the carb. Check all around both carbs for any open vacuum ports and plug them.
Clean the inside of the cap & rotor, clean the plugs and put them back in and re-check your firing order (1432). If you're not absolutely positive that you are timed to TDC on cyl 1, this is a good time to verify that cyl. 1 is, infact, at TDC using a straw or similar and bringing the piston up to its highest point while verifying that both valves on that cyl. are closed. A valve adjustment would be a good thing at this point as well as an oil change (cheap Walmart oil is okay for now.)
Put about a teaspoon of gas into each throat and crank the motor to see if it wants to fire.
That motor looks pretty tired and it's been my experience over the decades that there is usually a pretty strong possibility that someone had some sort of mechanical failure and walked away from the problem.
Either way, this just might be that retirement project you've been looking for.
Good luck
Bill

[Tom68]

THANK YOU BILL!
Your insight is greatly appreciated.