Engine drop / removal

[dbrody]

I'm going to drop an engine on a '69 912. I've already removed the fan housing, oil cooler, carbs and cylinders with it in the car (kind of doesn't make sense).

Anyway, I'm planning to use a floor jack and a funiture dolly. The floor jack will go into middle of the dolly. The jack will have a sheet of wood on it. Where is the center of gravity on the engine?

Dave

[adot]

If its just the motor, Inthe middle worked for me with some newspaper between the two. With all thats already off, I would almost say you could pull the motor by hand. Whats left, case crank and rods. If its both, motor and trans, Josh should be able to tell ya. He said he was pulling both today.

Did you have to lower the motor to get the dog hse off?

GoodLuck

Brett

[Ads912]

I've always found it easiest to take the engine out and leave the trans. in.
Here's my method:
Support the transmission with a jack stand.
Loosen the 4 nuts holding the trans and engine together.
Loosen the rear engine mount long nuts/bolts.
Support the engine in the center (sump/screen area) with a rolling jack (block of wood between jack and motor).
With the weight of the motor being held by the rolling jack, remove the bolts from the engine/trans and remove the rear motor mount nuts/bolts.
It helps to have a second person steady the engine while you remove the nuts/bolts.
Roll the engine back on the jack with wheels until it clears the engine studs and trans shaft, then lower it...and walla...it is out.

Before doing all of this, disconnect all wiring and fuel lines and disconnect the battery.

It should be a snap with the cylinders and dog house removed.
How the heck did you get it all off with the engine in the car???

It's a little trickier putting the engine back in. It is heavy and it takes 2 people to be safe.

The a@@ end of your car has to be way up in the air to clear the fan housing, when you put the engine back in.

Good Luck and Happy Holidays!

[dbrody]

Thanks, I will try that.

The dog house was a lot of fun. What I did was remove the shrouds, unbolt the housing, remove the single bolt connecting the cooler to the housing, remove the fan (just to make it lighter). Then I lifted the housing up slightly (about 2-3" before it hit the top and stuck in a piece of wood. I then proceeded to loosen the three nuts on the cooler. Once that was done I lifted the cooler and housing out.

Dave

[josh912]

Originally posted by Ads912
It's a little trickier putting the engine back in. It is heavy and it takes 2 people to be safe.

Now try lifting the engine and tranny with only two people! Now thats tough.

Back to the subject, try right under the sump plate. If you still have the muffler on, have someone balance the engine by holding on to the muffler. Personally I like to take both out with a jack under the tranny and another under the engine, as it easier to put back in, sometimes (had a HUGE cv joint problem a few times back, took about 5 hours to get the engine and tranny in!) Well, good luck. BTW, why are you pulling the engine?

[dbrody]

One of the connecting rods to a piston is very loose. I think I need to remove the whole casing to get to it. While I'm at it, I might as well check everything else. I don't know how old the engine is, but it looks okay (small amounts of carbon deposits).

Dave

[Green 912]

If you have removed the pistons and jugs you can remove and or tighten a con rod without removing the motor. But considering that you have practically disassembled the motor while it is still in the car you might just as well pull the motor. Believe me, you will be able to more easily perform the repair and reassembly with the motor out.

The way I like to pull the motor from a 912 is as follows and this is from memory so I might forget something:

1 Disconnect the battery and only then disconnect all wiring to the motor from the body. Senders, ignition, generator and such. No need to disconnect the starter.

2 Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump.

3 Remove the rear pan. (The big one at the rear of the car)

4 Disconnect the shift linkage connector that is under the cover between the rear seats. Don’t forget this part or you will really damage things later.

5 Loosen the rear wheel lugs. I like to remove the rear wheels as it makes it easer to move around under the car but it isn’t required.

6 Lift the car. To do so, jack the car up as high as you can with a floor jack using the tranny center at the differential box as a lifting point. I use a disk of plywood and a patch of old carpet in the jack cup to protect the cases. Use 2 jack stands and a 2X4 as long as the car is wide support the car by putting the 2X4 under the rear floor pan seam. (The seam NOT the pan. The point where the rear seat pan ends) Now remove the floor jack from the transmission and jack the car higher using the center of the 2X4. You will be able to get the car nice and high this way. Raise the floor stands up to meet the 2X4 and remove the floor jack. The car is stable, high enough, you only need one jack and never had to get under the car while lifting it.

7 Remove the rear wheels.

8 Remove the sheet metal that the license plate is on. You will need to remove the rear chrome bumpers to do this.

9 Loosen the front transmission bolts. Do not remove them; just back them out 3 turns or so.

10 Disconnect all the heater stuff, hoses, control wires and anything else you see that runs from the car to the motor. Check to see if there are any mounting straps to the tail pipes ect. (Remove nothing off the transmission, as it will stay. No need to remove the CV joints or starter ether)

11 Put the floor jack under the center of the motor case and put a little upward pressure on it, then remove the rear motor mount bolts.

12 Lower the motor about 3 inches. (You remembered to disconnect the transmission didn’t you?)

13 Remove the front most piece of motor tin. This is the one that sticks up over the top of the transmission. It is held in place with 4 cheese heads.

14 Get a flat cargo strap that is about 1 inch wide, run it under the transmission right behind the bell housing. Tie it off on the top of the rear strut towers inside the motor compartment and cinch it up tight. This will support the transmission after you remove the motor.

15 Lower the motor until SOME of the weight is off the jack. The strap will stretch some thus giving you some more room to work with. Now slide under the car and remove the 2 lower motor/trans nuts. Then remove the 2 bolts on top. One is a starter-mounting bolt as well.

16 Jack the motor up or down until the motor isn’t lifting the trans and the trans isn’t lifting the motor.

16 Now you can pull the motor gently off the trans and lower it to the floor and then roll it right out the back. Use the tail pipes as handles. Bolt on the motor stand bracket and only now do you need to get a friend to help you lift the bugger into the stand.


One jack, one person and the second time you do it you can do it in about 40 min. You can remove and install a transmission single-handed as well.

[adot]

Green 912

#4

Don’t forget this part or you will really damage things later.

Can you go to more detail please.

Thanx

Brett

[Green 912]

On the tunnel at the base of the rear seats is a cover held in place by 4 screws. Remove the cover and you will see the shift rod coupling. (SRC) You will also see the throttle cable, heater cables and other lines and stuff as it is a handy way to run wiring from the dash to the motor compartment.
To disconnect the SRC from the transmission. Put the car in 3rd gear and the linkage will move forward. You will see a square headed bolt on the top of the SRC towards the rear of the unit. Loosen the bolt almost all the way out. (It should have a safety wire on it but I often see them without. Clip the wire and replace it when you are done, as it is important) Now shift the car into 4th then back into 3rd and the linkage should pull off of the transmission shift shaft. The SRC bolt is pointed and it fits into a cone drilled in the shift shaft. When you reinstall it, wiggle the shifter lever while you tighten the bolt to 11ft.lb. and it will realign things as long as you haven’t disassembled anything else in the linkage. This disconnects the transmission from the shift linkage and will now allow you to move the transmission up and down without bending the shift shaft.

When you replace the safety wire thread the wire through the bolt so as to put tension on the bolt in the direction that keeps the bolt tight. When, not if, the bolt loosens the transmission shifting will be even sloppier than normal and the chance of a missed shift increases.