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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 708
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Well after taking the top end apart and cleaning everything up, I was very pleased. It has a big bore, but not just any big bore. This displacement was calculated to 1709 cc and the pistons had some nice valve cutouts. The engine had 155 psi compression all around before taking of a shim. Haven't checked it yey, but with one shim on (the skinny bronze one from the rebuild kit) the engine has awesome compression on all cylinders. It takes two hands to turn the flywheel during compression and you have to pull very hard! However, the heads were never flycut so the compression isn't astronomical but is probably between 9.5 and 10! Hehehehe. The heads were gourgous but not as pretty as the pc's. There wasn't a scratch on them. Gave them a quick honing and put them back on. The cam apeared to be stock (looked at the number). The engine was tight and everything looked great, although the valve springs had a little surface rust from sitting for 5 years, but no pitting, so that was good. The rear seal leaked a little so I replaced it as well as the flywheel nut (the good kind). The only problem it has is that the case was welded at the oil cooler typical area for the case to crack) Unfortunately, the weld wasn't perfect and it leaks. So this summer I'm going to get it fixed by Walt at Competition Engineering, and at the same time do a complete rebuild, and powder coat the sheetmetal, and repaint the car. Back to the engine. After cleaning it up and putting it back together, I went to start it with its new tranny. Hooked up the remote starter, pussed the button Rewuhrehwuh vrooom started right up and idled with no throttle right away! I LOOOOOVE Solexes!
![]() As for the car, I have new engine sound padding, and new seats. The door regulator is giving me fits, and I tried 2 different regulators! Never had a problem replacing and rebuilding regulators before, but this window just won't cooperate. Bled the brakes, and the fluid was very watery. But after taking a look at the drivers side rear brake line, I decided I need to replace them, it was mushy! Oh well. So now the engine is in the car but I have electrical gremlins. The car had a alarm system installed in the late 80's early 90's that covers the doors, hood, rear deck, bumpers, and has a motion detector, ignition cut off, and a large horm in the engine compartment. 2 problems, I don't have the key, and I don't want it. However, upon removing it, the ignition doesn't work, and I think I fried the voltage regulator in the process. So now I'm comlpetely rewiring the ignition, starter, and all that good stuff. What fun. So all you going to the 912 owners meeting, I would be there but I'll be solving electrical gremlins. But if any of you want to stop by Porterville on the way down (or back up!), let me know! Hopefully I'll have the car back on the road next Sunday after rewiring, new brake lines, and new tires. Next project, new floorboard section, and new interior made by me! (its only vinyl and carpeting, can't be tooooo hard, right???) Keep the 912 faith! |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 708
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Well finally got the car on the road. It has new rubber, and runs great (for an 009) BUT, I just bought the 050 so thats going to be slapped in soon. And ready for the shock..........it doesn't leak oil!!!
![]() and keeping the 912 faith! |
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Josh,
Have you installed the 050 distributor yet? Let me know how the engine runs after you install it. I've been running an 009 distributor with a 2.0L engine and 44IDFs, and it's run so well I haven't ever really thought about switching to the 050. Everyone seems to agree that 050s are the way to go though, and I thought I'd see if you notice a big difference after switching distributors. Andrew |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 708
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Andrew, actually I bargained it off for a 031 so I'm not using the 050 anymore. But, I can speak from experience on the 009 - 050 swap. The 050 will make a huge difference. This is because it has 28 degrees advance compared to the 20 of the 009. Now, I don't know what advance the t4 requires, it might only require 20 which would make the 009 the choice distributor. With a 1.6L you have to bring the static up really high in order to get a decent high speed advance, and thats what brings up all the troubles. Look in your manual on advance and if its about 28-30 I would definately give the 050 a shot.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Savannah, GA, USA
Posts: 653
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The Haynes manual calls for 28 degrees at 3500 rpm for a stock FI 914 2.0L. The general recommendation for dual carbs is 28 to 32 degrees. The 050 works fairly well for this, but has no vacuum advance.
Mike |
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