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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
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Rust repair where to start?
My '67 912 needs both half's of the body pan, suspension pan, gas tank support, and both rockers replaced. I am building the Restoration Designs rotisserie which I will fit the car too.
My question is what is the best order to remove and replace? I am thinking inner then outer rockers, front and rear floor, gas tank support, then suspension pan. I appreciate any and all input. Thanks, Curt |
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Russ
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Curt,
That is a good question. The first thing is to make sure you are committed to the project before you start cutting... :-) Is your car a targa or coupe? Russ |
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Registered
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personally I started with the front suspension pan and working my way back.
__________________
1966 912 with 2.2 911 motor 1986 wide body 911 1995 993 Polar Silver |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
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Russ, my car is a coupe. I agree with your statement, I have never had to deal with a car needing this much rust repair, but I feel my past projects have prepared me for the job ahead. I would like to have the car finished within two years.
Thanks for the input kinein. Curt |
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Russ
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Curt,
It helps that your car is a coupe. This will allow you leave out the needed bracing for rotisserie use. I agree with kinein. Start with the front and move back. As you probably know the rockers are connected to the pan so...I would correct the rockers and then move to the floor pan. This should help when fitting the floor and the new rockers will keep rigidity in the car as it is spun around on the rotisserie. Best of luck and keep us updated. Russ |
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801cdw
I am building a rotisserie for my 66 912 from engine stands from harbor freight. If you would like info what you will need let me know or check my thread out on the 66 912 with 911 motor. 1966 912 with 911T motor This is my first rust resto, so I am learning during this process. luckily I have friends that have done this type of intense resto before.
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1966 912 with 2.2 911 motor 1986 wide body 911 1995 993 Polar Silver |
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I was told that you need to make sure the tunnel is in good condition before cutting the floor out. You dont want to mess with the rigidity of the car. Hopefully someone can chime in on this part.
__________________
1966 912 with 2.2 911 motor 1986 wide body 911 1995 993 Polar Silver |
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Registered
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I'd hunt down the factory chassis dimensions and measuring points which were posted on this site a while back. Once it's established that the tub is within tolerance cross-bracing everything before any cutting is a good idea to make sure that all of your work doesn't result in a beautiful restoration that doglegs down the road.
Bill |
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Registered
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I have what you are looking for. When I get a chance I'll post it.
__________________
1966 912 with 2.2 911 motor 1986 wide body 911 1995 993 Polar Silver |
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Registered User
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Build a jig for the tub plus that rotisserie u r getting should be no big deal just another day in the shop ! start with the floors as the inner rocker butts up to it work middle out
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
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WFBowen, Mavrick65, what mounting points do you suggest for the jig?
I appreciate everyones input! Curt |
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Registered User
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i would mount off the trosion bar holes, in the rear i would go off the the engine mounts, front off of the struts as u r replacing the suspenion pan
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Registered
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Check this thread - scroll down a ways and you'll see a diagram with measuring points and values, but some are not used as it's for a lwb car.
Jerry's 67 912 restore Otto posted a detailed SWB measurement diagram a while back - this is the one that'd be good to have, but he hasn't been on the board in quite a while. Someone here or on the 911 boards might have a high-res. copy. Dimensions of metal for chassis dolly Bill |
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