Newly rebuilt 2.0 --- reving too fast!

[Howard H]

Finally reinstalled my newly rebuilt 2.0 ('74) engine, and got everything hooked up. Disconnected the coil and the wires that go to all injectors; cranked the engine in about 10 second intervals until I was getting oil pressure. Re-connected coil and injector wires. Cranked her again, and she started right up.

The problem with this scenario is that when I started the engine, it accelerated up to about 3500 rpm almost immediately. Given the virgin condition of the engine, I shut it off pretty quickly. Each time I have tried to re-start it, it has gone immediately to high rev's.

I am reading Kjell Nelin's D-Jet article to put together a strategic troubleshooting approach. Even so, I can't help but think that someone must have a good idea of some quick things that I should check before my all-out troubleshooting blitz.

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,
Howard

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[oredith]

Have you checked all your vacumn hoses?.. cracked, leaking, or missing hoses can what you're describing.. Mine did that when i installed the Crane ignition and forgot to put a hose back-on.. check dave's article and make sure everything is connected to the correct spot..

Jeff

[JP Noonan]

How did you time the dizzy. The Haynes manual has a pretty good run through of how it's done. Basically the dwell is set with a feeler gauge, and the timing is set by using a test light and setting the points to 'just' start opening as #1 hit 27 BTDC.

Also as was said look for a massive vaccuum leak. First block off the aux air valve. Next look for any ports on the air intake that were left open.

What RPM are you looking for? 3500 does sound high, but you need to rev the motor up to a certain RPM for the first 30 minutes to break in the cam, don't you? After that, go by the John Dunkle schedule. I think it's 300 miles: oil change vale adjustment, again at 1000, then 3000. I'll get back to you with the specifics.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The 27 BTDC is set at 3500 RPM. If you set the timing there at idle (or engine off!) you'll have VERY advanced timing and a very high idle.

The two main suspects for a high idle are vaccuum leaks and advanced timing. Check the hoses and the Aux Air Regulator and Decel Valve for leaks. The AAR and DV can leak internally. Check that the hoses are hooked up correctly. See the hose diagrams on this site for details on that.

Good luck!

--DD

[Howard H]

Thanks, Oredith, J.P. and Dave for your rapid responses.

Something tells me that I should re-check all hose connections. I replaced all vacuum lines as a part of the rebuild, but I could certainly have hooked something up wrong.

I'll start with the vacuum leak check in the morning. I'll let everyone know what I find (as though people are just dying to see what happens next).

Howard

[JP Noonan]

Yeah, O.K., so I was wrong...sorry.

Here's the real deal.

As always, set the dwell first, before timing. The breaker gap between the points should be .016" or 0.4mm when the rubbing block is on one of the distributor cam lobes peaks.

Turn the motor so #1 is at Top Dead Center. The points should be closed, but the rubbing block should be where the cam starts to ramp up. Now turn the motor so to 5 degrees BTDC, now the points should just start to be opening. This is where a test light can come in handy, the light goes out, the points are open.

Sorry, for the confusion.

[Howard H]

Well, you guys were right again. I forgot (duh) that I had taken the 8mm hose that goes to the MPS to use as a sample. The new hose was sitting in my other car. It wasn't doing me much good there, but when I put it in the 914, it solved the problem.

Just goes to prove that you should always check the simplest things first.

Again, thanks for the help.

Howard