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radiator mounting
for all you guys out there that have done conversions to water cooled engines, what did you do about mounting your radiator and venting the hot air that passes through the radiator?
pictures would be nice ![]()
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"Real racers turn right too." "When life goes flying by... Downshift." |
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Mine's mounted top-forward in a powder-coated angle-stock frame bolted at the bottom of the trunk and at the front. There should be no hot air in the system. A petcock on the top of the radiator bleeds the air when you fill it. Any small remaining air gets purged by the expansion tank located at the highest point in the system.
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I'd like to know this information too. Anyone have some pictures? In this diagram from Kennedy Engineered Products they show the hot air being vented out through the front wheel-wells.
http://www3.telus.net/public/alpine65/KEP.jpg |
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OCD project capitan
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If your going for simplistic, do like the factory did with its race cars, out the bottom. I don't have any pics on hand, but if you do a google search on 914 gt porsche, you should get something.
Don.
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Don Welch '73 914ish ->6ish GTish 2.8 twin plug mfi... happy camper. |
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Jon Lowe's 914-6GT page has pics of the factory ducting setup, somewhere in the thousands of GT pics he has.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~jonlowe/ --DD
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by venting hot air, i meant venting the air that flows through the radiator, not the air in the coolant lines...
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you need to visit Renegade Hybrids on the web....
air exits out the fenderwells as seen in the picture...yes it works, there are a few hundred conversions (wild guess) that are done this way with the Renegade and Rod Simpson kits there radiator is custom sized unit, I've tried to purchase the same size from his builder and was "denied" ![]() the Renegade setup is nice, I installed one last year or so in a buddies car, very nice unit (about a grand of so with fan and shrouding...they do have them on sale once in a while from what I heard)
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'73 914, 1.7, with Boxster transmission in the future? ![]() Last edited by mike mueller; 08-31-2004 at 04:45 PM.. |
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asdf
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'73 914, 1.7, with Boxster transmission in the future? ![]() |
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OCD project capitan
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$1,000? OUCH. But i guess thats what an 914 oil tank and lines would run... Its just money for the love of these damn cars...
Mike, don't you have to reinforce the walls at all after cutting them out? or is it strong enough as is?
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no reinforcement, no one has ever mentioned a problem or an increase in flexing once that area is cut.....my floor is cut for the dealer installed A/C, not too sure if I'll use the existing hole or weld in a new floor panel (which I already have) and go with the holes similar to the picture.........
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On Renegade's page under Options List for 914 Coversions it says "Renegade offers an excellent, custom made, cooling system. This system is complete and ready to install." So maybe the cooling system can be purchased separately from their complete conversion it.
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Alfred, you must not have read my post or BigD9146gts reply???
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Think about how a system works on a typical road car. The air exits out of a front engined car at the bottom to the left and right side of the engine. The only difference with our setups is the distance the water has to travel. Am I right? I had alot of anxiety when starting the cooling system for my v6 conversion and then I took a look at a Fiero in the junkyard. A hole in the front of the car, a radiator, a hole in the trunk floor and 2 hoses going towards the engine. Seems basic. I found a cheap radiator with 2 fans, and cut a very careful and stylish hole in the front end. 2 rubber hoses to floor from rad, that attach to 1" copper pipe that runs straight to engine bay. (under car) Filler cap on radiator and one in engine bay up high to allow for bleeding air. Fender wells have been cut to exhaust hot air. Also a homemade aluminum duct to channel cool air directly into the radiator. Ok, so I admit that my $100.00 system hasn't been tested yet, but it seems to me that it will work. I will def. be running a temp. gauge when I fire the thing up. Please write and tell me if this is destined to fail. My fear is that the copper pipes under the car are not a large enough diam. (1") The system looks nice and simple and I have no fear of damaging the lines under the car. Pete
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Here's a picture of my radiator. Rather than rolling-my-own I bought this from Desert Hybrids for less than $500. Pete, I'm running 3/4" ID steel pipe under the car so 1" will be no problem. If I was to do it over I would not have cut out the fender openings so big. There's plenty of room in front of the radiator for a full-size A/C condenser.
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Quote:
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Quote:
I don't think he sells "just the radiator" (without the fans and ducting), but he might, if so, I'd guess for it to be in the $600 range????? 914GT....with that huge hole, I'd add some kind of bracing...I'd also add some screen, what if you put something in the front trunk or someone else does without your knowing it and it get's into the suspension or brakes????? ouch !!!!
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Need the proper length of hoses too and maybe the custom front valence. I'm not sure what's included in their "complete system".
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Mike, I think there's been some past discussions on this board about the structural effect of the cutout, and it seemed this area was not that critical. What I have done though is weld steel tubing above the front opening to reinforce the front end. I've had no problem with dirt or rocks thrown off the tires. Screen a good idea, but I don't worry about anything put in the front - I'm the only one that will ever drive this car.
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Concerning the front trunk cutouts, the Kennedy Adapters brochure says one or the other , but not both. (floor and fender wells) They do not mention why, but I assume it is a "loss of strength" issue. Or perhaps it messes up the airflow. I also have a previous ac car and need to fill the floor in because I have cut the fender wells. Pete
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Peter, I'd have to say due to weakening of the chassis for not doing both..........
it's only structual when you hit something ![]() hopefully none of us will find that out........ I would be interested in seeing some stress tests and see how much, if any, the chassis up front moves around while driving.....I guess a cheap and easy way would be to tie thread at points inside the trunk area and see if any of them break due to stretching.......
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