Shifter spring install

LateApex · 10-01-2002, 08:45 PM

my shifter started to stick so I decided to remove it and rebuild it. After I finished the cleaning process, I can't figure out how to install the springs back in. they are sooooo stiff! any tricks and tips on reinstalling>?

Kevin Powers · 10-02-2002, 03:22 AM

what a pita. years back i sprung for the short shift kit (weiltmiester sp) and those damn springs. i think i did something like this. roughly work one end of the spring in, i think i used 2 1" putty knives. be patient and work in an area where you can find them when they fly across the garage. what i did'nt like was the stiff side preasure it took to engage 1&r. the gate the springs push against cut right into bottom of the shifter. contrary to most opinions i've read i liked the shifter, 2 thru 5 were much better.

kevin

maf 914 · 10-02-2002, 04:45 AM

I installed the supplemental shifter spring kit that Weltmeister sells. These appear to be the same as the existing springs, just an additional pair to increase shift lever pressure away from the 1&R slot. They were tough to insall (man I was cursing!) and as Kevin stated they did fly across the garage a few times in the process. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly what technique worked, as it has been several years since I did it. But it can be done!

I do like the results. The 1st to 2nd shift is much smoother in my opinion. I don't find the spring resistance to be too high going into 1st or Reverse.

Mike

Kevin Powers · 10-02-2002, 04:58 AM

here's what you get. i just rememembered. you use the old springs as well. you have to drill holes in the base. they supplied a goofy template and a drill bit that broke on the first hole. maybe the problem i had with regards to the cutting issue was the mess left behind in the tunnel when the floors were replaced. see other reply regarding sand blasting and grease.

kevin

John Rogers · 10-02-2002, 05:36 AM

To put the springs back in you need to make a "spring insertion" tool. Take a large screwdriver that has the blade a little wider than the OD of the spring and notch the blade end so it fits inside the ID of the spring for about 0.5 inches or so. Then put the rod in from one side, slide the spring over it and use the tool to compress the spring while pressing down on the spring trying to force it into the metal housing. When the spring is compressed enough, pull the tool out of the spring while pressing it into the housing and then push the rod the rest of the way through. BE CAREFUL as the spring has a lot of force. Good luck.

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

The ones I've seen have had the blade notched on both sides, actually. The effect is to leave a small tab in the middle that goes into the center of the spring and keeps it from sliding sideways off the blade.

--DD

9ism · 08-02-2025, 10:01 AM

23 years since the last reply and I have a very simply process to replace those springs. Put the pin in the reverse lock out plate side about 1/8 of inch in. Slide the spring onto that end. Bend the spring up from the middle like a bow shape, then push the other end in place (while keeping light pressure on the middle of the bend, it will shoot out). Push the whole spring in the middle in place. Slide the pin all the way in until it stops. You’ll probably need to make some small nudges to get the pin to line up. Just take your time and watch where your adjustments move the end and it will line up. Once the pin is through put those little retaining rings back on and celebrate your success 🏆