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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
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Changing rear brake lines?
How do you get to the top of the rear brake line to replace it? I can't get the wrenches in there, especially on the right side.
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Registered
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I seem to recall needing to remove the air guides as well as being a contortionist. You are talking about hooking the rubber lines up to the steel lines (where they join), right? I do recall that job being rather high on the difficulty scale, purely from an access perspective. But it can be done.
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
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Thanks, I'll have to think about it awhile.
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Administrator
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Very tough to do with the engine in place. I have heard of people cutting the brake line and then using a deep socket on the nut. I'm not sure I'd go that far, but that does show how tough the access is.
--DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Ratchet, foot long extension, crowfoot (the line wrench style). One setup for each of the 2 fittings. Works every time, as long as you don't have chingered up fittings.
The Cap'n |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
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I cut the lines and got it all a part, the crowfoot idea sounds good.
Tks, Rick |
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Control Group
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I removed plugs or something from the tin and accessed that one from above
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She was the kindest person I ever met |
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Zink Racer
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 3,992
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I just went through my brakes and am saving the stainless lines I purchased for a winter engine out project. The design and access is terrible. I need to pull the motor anyway. It's a shame though, I think my pedal on my new 19mm master cylinder and rebuilt calipers would be better with new soft lines installed :-)
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Jerry 1964 356, 1983 911 SC/Carrera Franken car, 1974 914 Bumblebee, a couple of other 914's in various states of repair |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,051
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SS Braided Teflon lines? Why? You're just gonna have to go through this whole process again in a couple of years. Despite what the sales people and their blind followers tell you, there are NO particular benefits in using them and there's a ton of reasons not to. The factory type hoses are good for 15-30 years, especially if you flush the fluid every couple of years.
The Cap'n |
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Registered
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Just replaced the rubber brake lines. The rears are a huge pain in the ass. I could tell because THEY WERE THE F&$#@ing ORIGINALS FROM 1973! I ended up cutting them off at the swaging. I used a healthy squirt of penetrating oil first. I then held the hard line fitting with an 11mm flare wrench and used a deep 17mm socket on an impact gun to detach the remaining rubber hose fitting. Worked like a dream. The hard part was sliding out the retaining clip. I used a cotter pin remover and a pair of long offset needle nose pliers to get it out. Clean the clip well on a wire wheel and hit it with a little anti-seize. It will pop back in easily.
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Grappler
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Quote:
This... There's no easy way with the engine in, but it definitely can be done. The key is to make sure you have the right size wrenches. 11 and 17mm brake line wrenches with plenty of penetrating oil and lots of patience. What you don't want to do is round out the top brake line fitting. The clip was a huge pain in the rear as well.
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Grappler Know Gi / No Gi 1976 RSR Backdate (Turbo 3.2) |
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