Clunk Clunk Clunk????

gengs · 07-17-2003, 11:52 AM

Hello been a while since I looked into the forum but was hoping that someone could shed some light on the below-

The problem-

Over bumps and uneven road I get a clunk from the front drivers side suspension area. The bigger the bump the bigger the clunk and wiggle of the steering wheel

The cause (??)

(1) Front Shock Insert (mechanic thinks so)
(2)Ball joint at bottom of shock (Mittel Motor think so)
(3) Torsion whatsit (suggested on the UK 914 forum)

Now I have three different possible causes can anyone shed some light as to what it might be before I go and and buy the wrong thing.

Cheers

Engin

Tidybuoy · 07-17-2003, 12:01 PM

When I replaced my struts (the inserts) after a month of no problems I developed a clunking noise from one strut. It turned out that the strut had started to come unscrewed. I was able to fix it by tightening it up with a pipe wrench well the strut was still installed in the car.

gengs · 07-17-2003, 12:06 PM

Sorry to be thick, but I'm only just getting to grips with the engine,
How would I go about tightening the insert, is it the visible nut in the front trunk?

mike95125 · 07-17-2003, 12:20 PM

You need to take the visible nut off of the top of the rod in the trunk, then push the rod down and pull the whole thing out of the wheel well as far as you can with out stressing your ball joint too much. See if the rod wiggles back and forth, then see if you can compress it too easily. It may be bad.
Before you do all of this, check your ball joint by jacking the front side up and pushing your wheel in and out from the side. If you can, your ball joint is bad, but still look into the strut because it may have cause the ball joint to go bad.
HTH.

gengs · 07-17-2003, 12:38 PM

Mike, looking at your instructions am I correct in assuming the following-

That if I take that if I take that nut off that that rod is the top of the insert? (Won't it be under pressure and fire upwards?)

And after I have pulled the rod up that it should all go back together easily?

Is this all I need to do or are there any othrer steps required?

Sorry to be clueless.

Thanks

Engin

Scooter311 · 07-17-2003, 01:09 PM

Howdy

My insert loosened up also, and after jacking the front end up to unweight the suspension, everything went easily. It's very straightforward and obvious. (Just don't drop any hardware between the tank and body - ask me how I know!)
While the front end is up, you can inspect the front end and all the suspension/steering.
Also, do you have a sway bar? If so, check the endlinks for play. Very easy to troubleshoot and repair.
Give 'er a shot, you'll be proud of yourself when you fix it

Cheers,
Jeff

gengs · 07-17-2003, 01:35 PM

I certainly will-
So in idiot steps-

1 Jack up car
2 Wiggle the wheel about, if it does then a new ball joint is needed
3 Whilst its jacked up loosen the nut off
4 Push the rod down to clear the sides
5 Then from underneath / within the wheel arch bring as much of the strut down
6 Give the rod wiggle and try to compress it, if yes then a new insert is needed
7 Put it all back together.

Is that what needs to be done?

Cheers

Jim Smolka · 07-17-2003, 03:57 PM

Make sure the ball joint is properly seated into the A-Arm. There is a notch on the ball joint that mates to a cut out in the A-Arm

mike95125 · 07-17-2003, 05:25 PM

the strut is a shock dampening doo dad and will not be under extreme pressure. You can compress it fairly easily, and it will slowly re extend. The rod pokes out of the cover under the wheel well. The cover looks like an upside down cup of sorts. You will need to take the cover off to get to the nut that holds the shock in the strut assembly. It truly is straight forward.
1. jack car up
2. push and pull on the whole wheel perpendicular to the wheel.
3. if it clicks reach around and wiggle the strut assembly just below the cover.
4. if it wiggles then you have found your problem. If it wiggles at the bottom then your ball joint is kaput.

I just replaced my wheel bearings because I didnt notice that my strut was actually loose. Live and learn.
HTH

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

Ball Joint. Definitely.

gengs · 07-18-2003, 01:44 AM

Right seems simple enough (even for me),

Thanks all

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

99% of the time if the ball joint is bad, it is obvious once the wheel is off and you look at the rubber part, it's cracked and squished and all the grease is out.

I had steering wheel wobble and my car would clunk when making low speed turns.

gengs · 07-20-2003, 02:29 PM

Thanks all,

Today I jacked up the car gave the wheel a bloody good wiggle and sure enough it clicked away like no tomorrow.

Looked at the ball joint, and it looks pretty new, no cracks or grease coming from it. Shook the wheel again and put my hand behind on o the strut and it was prety obvious that it was coming from the top where the strut goes under the cover. Just to put my hand at the ball joint end and was solid as a rock.

So looks like its the strut.

Of course another test would have been to check the prices of the possibly faulty components and then purchase the most expensive one regardless because sods law says thats the bit your going to need.

M. Hendrix · 07-20-2003, 02:44 PM

heh

Yeah. I was going to say it's probably your cam bearings.

M

mike95125 · 07-20-2003, 11:07 PM

just tighten the shock insert at the top of the strut. shouldnt be any money.

gengs · 07-21-2003, 04:30 AM

How do I stop the big washer with the notch from truning as I tighten the nut, or does that not matter. Looking down from above the nut on the passenger side is screwd on furthr than the drivers side.

Cheers

mike95125 · 07-21-2003, 10:18 AM

Use a pipe wrench to hold the washer, and remove the nut. Then compress the rod downward. Then pull the assembly out ward towards you. Remove the top cover of the strut assembly (you need to re compress the strut rod to get enough room for the cover to be slipped over the rod). You will see another odd shaped washer/nut thing that holds the shock assembly fast in the strut body. It may be loose so you need to tighten it (you can use a pipe wrench). You also may need to reposition the insert before you tighten. If this dont work then your shock insert is bad.

(I keep calling the thing a shock/strut insert, but I think that there is a more correct name for wich I keep forgeting)

gengs · 07-24-2003, 03:01 PM

Had absolutely no joy tightening up the nut as I ahd no way of accessing the tools before I went to Germany on Tuesday AM for business. But by a happy stroke of luck I happened to go into Mittel Motor (kind of European for Pelican, less the forum), and by another happy stroke of luck I happened to walk out with 2 new shocks, a strut, a new ignition switch, some handbrake bits, a clutch and front lenses which were on special.

Which when stuffd into my luggage and combined with a name like mine made me ever so popular with security people. But were very understanding when I explained.

And as a nice bonus one of the M M staff gave me a lift back to the train station in the mintiest of mint 1970 911's.

So in between that lot something should do the trick (of course it may still be the ball joint)

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

DUDE!

You went to Mittlemotor and didn't offer to get us some stuff?

You're banned from the forum!

Dave! Pull his card...

James

Like I have _any_ pull around here.

D@mn. I'd love to go there.

M. Hendrix · 07-24-2003, 04:40 PM

I went there last night, they were closed.

M