cooling flaps

[Bret]

I want to thank everybody for their advise
on my cooling flaps question. My next question is how hard is it to install these things? Can I do it with the engine in the car? Thank You.

[JP Noonan]

Hmmm.

Can't swear to it, but I would think after removing the FI, the flashback valve (if you have one), the dizzy, and the two large pieces of tinware, you should by able to. The tin can be a pain on the driver side due to the dip-stick tube. Make sure the oil cooler gasket around the tin-ware is in place. Also the flaps ride in plastic bushings that hold it to the fan housing, that and some sheet-metal "tangs" or clips that hold it in.

While it's apart I'd clean the cylinder fins and oil cooler with spray carb cleaner. Maybe this would also be a good time to replace the oil pressure idiot sender and the CHT if they are old.

[mejulihn]

JP, can the CHT sender be replaced without removing the engine tin?

[JP Noonan]

I've tried it, it "can" be removed using a deep depth 13mm with a hole drilled in the side to let the wire hang out (unless you have a deeper depth socket than me that lets the wire bunch up inside the socket). Problem I had was trying to put the new one in without cross-threading it. I think the hole in the tin dosen't allow a socket to line up properly. The time involed and the risk of cross threading it, led me to remove the passenger side tin.

The CHT is in a blind hole in the cooling fin so soak it good with PB Blaster first before taking it out. If it dosen't come out easy then try turning it back in a 1/4 turn then out a 3/4 turn, then back in, the out a little more. It may still strip, but sometimes this helps.

For removing the tin I use a "impact driver". First it comes with the massive sized screw driver blade you need. Sometimes this alone is enough to remove the tin-ware screws. If not wack the driver a few times, not too much or you will shear off the screw head.

On reassembly make sure that neither the tin ware or the wire to the CHT is caught between the intake tube and the head, ask me how I know.

[Ian Cubus]

It's up to you but if I had to install the cooling flap assembly which actually goes into the fan shroud I wouldn't remove the injection just because of all of the hoses, intake seals, etc... My approach would be to remove the front piece of tin, alternator belt, fan, and loosen the shroud. Pull it back far enough to install the flaps which may require just loosening the tin where the fan shroud touches. Reinstall in reverse order. Just another way! Ian

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Hmm, I don't think that would work very well. I don't think that the fan shroud comes off of the motor completely while the motor is still in the car. The fan can come out, but it does so out the bottom of the car. The angle of the firewall prevents it from going out upwards.

I only have experience putting the flaps on before the engine tin. I don't think it would work any other way, though.

Just two more cents for ya.

Oh, on removing all the engine tin mounting screws: The biggest flat-head screwdriver you can buy at Sears is the Right Tool for that job. All the rest that I've found over there are too small. They strip out the screwheads and frequently don't budge the screws. The real problem is the driver is really LONG, so getting it on some of the screws can be a real PITA.

--DD

[oredith]

on the subject of CHT sensor.. use LOTS of PB or WD-40, whatever your preference.. but soak it before you try to take it out.. mine was completely frozen in the head.. when i turned the socket.. the hex head came off with the actual sensor attached to it.. the thread part broke off and stayed in the hole.. i ended up having to relocate my CHT sensor.. overall, not too much fun.. so be careful when you attempt removal.

Jeff

[Ian Cubus]

Hey Dave the fan shroud doesn't need to come all the way off to install the cooling flaps. And yes you can remove the fan shroud with the engine in the car. Ask me how I know! Ha-ha! LOL, Ian