![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: dfw tx
Posts: 3,957
|
![]()
My 72 is almost finished, and looking good too
![]() I drove it a few blocks for 10 gal of fresh gas last night, and it's running like a top! I just have a few more issues to work out though. - The little washer/gasket that seals the tube where you check the fuel pressure ( the one on the screw filler) is mangled and leaks. Does anyone know of a similar part that the FLAP would carry? I don't want to drive for or wait for a part if I don't have to. - My engine cover popped open while driving. Is there a common cause for this? Can I put shims under the latch to make it grab more of the rod coming down from the engine lid?I looked at adjusting the rod to go deeper into the latch but it appears if I do i'll make contact with the rear trunk lid when I close the engine lid.. - Is the front side marker light supposed to blink when that side's turn signals are on (key on)? my right side does, but the left side does not. Which way should it be? - The rear brakes felt like they are hanging, it might be from rusty rotors but I want to make sure they're free before i warp a rotor. -I just put in new shift bushings in the tail shifter, but 2nd and 3rd were tough to hit. I know it's vague but I've never had trouble like this before. I suspect something was misaligned during installation. Other than that, I'm stoked! I'll try to get some pictures today.
__________________
72 914 2056: 74 9146 2.2: 76 914 2.0 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
- The little washer/gasket that seals the tube where you check the fuel pressure ( the one on the screw filler) is mangled and leaks. Does anyone know of a similar part that the FLAP would carry? I don't want to drive for or wait for a part if I don't have to.
>you may have to replace the fuel rail or plug that hole permanantly - My engine cover popped open while driving. Is there a common cause for this? Can I put shims under the latch to make it grab more of the rod coming down from the engine lid?I looked at adjusting the rod to go deeper into the latch but it appears if I do i'll make contact with the rear trunk lid when I close the engine lid.. > My experience is one of the following. The latch is worn or need lubing. 2. the body is flexing, 3. You have a brokenmotor mount and the engine bumps it - Is the front side marker light supposed to blink when that side's turn signals are on (key on)? my right side does, but the left side does not. Which way should it be? >I don't think the side markers blink... - The rear brakes felt like they are hanging, it might be from rusty rotors but I want to make sure they're free before i warp a rotor. > check the ebarke cables are they rusty...rear venting should be set and make sure the caliper pisto can move freely -I just put in new shift bushings in the tail shifter, but 2nd and 3rd were tough to hit. I know it's vague but I've never had trouble like this before. I suspect something was misaligned during installation. Dd you have the shifter out...Fine tuning can be made at the shifter connection clamp at the bulk head...side to side, rotatonal adjustment and forward and back, in and out of the clamp If you had problems with 1,2,5 I would look at the forward and back qadjustment similiarly In your case try centering the shifter side to side.
__________________
Scott 1982 911 SC 1962 sunroof bug 1991 WE Vanagon CARAT WRX conversion |
||
![]() |
|
Administrator
|
Re: Grinning, but a few more issues.
Quote:
Or you could permanently install a fuel pressure gauge. ![]() Quote:
Quote:
--DD
__________________
Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
|||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: dfw tx
Posts: 3,957
|
I went by the FLAPS, but they had nothing for the leak. I was able to get it to stop by using a round crimp-on electrical connector for a gasket. I'll keep an eye open for seepage, though.
I adjusted the the shift linkage and it's working now. I moved the trunk lid back a bit to align it with the rear fenders, and to make room for the engine lid to close. A close inspection of the rod which fits into the latch showed it was worn at the tip to have an 45deg angle on it. I tried grinding it off but then it was too short to reach in far enough to engage the whole latch. I took one off another engine lid and used it, and it seems to be working now. One problem is, I realize now the drivers side engine lid hinge is rewelded a little too low and rearward for a good fit, and it going to require some reworking. The hanging brake was a sticking emergency lever. The brakes felt spongy at a high pedal pressure, i'm going to change the brake fluids today, and inspect all the workings. I'll switch the wires on the side marker also. Bottom line is IT's WORKING! Sway bars I added feel great. The engine runs better than I remember, maybe do to the adjusted MPS and 2.0 exhaust. Pictures coming.
__________________
72 914 2056: 74 9146 2.2: 76 914 2.0 |
||
![]() |
|