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Pearl's havin a brain fart....
well everything's been runnin good. I even got her to quit smokin this past weekend, but today I went to go start her up after work, and there wasn't a fuel pump noise and she didn't want to start. I got out the tester and the fuel pump's not gettin any juice. The fuses are all good. So where else should I check?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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Check out Brad Anders' Fuel Pump flow chart. Works real well.
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/FPChecklist_frame.htm |
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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Try unplugging the Aux Air Valve and see if you get current to the pump, if so, you need to replace the AAR.
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where's that at?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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Number 30 is the AAR. Try unplugging it. It shares the same circuit path as the fuel pump if the AAR fails, it will short out the fuel pump as well.
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RETIRED
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Could also be a bad relay in the circuit board.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 179
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check the pump power connection to the coil.
I had this same problem about 5 weeks ago - found it popped off the terminal at the coil - don't know how it slipped off, but as soon as I reattached it, everyhing was fine.
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I'd rather have a bottle-in-front-of-me than a frontal lobotomy. |
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There is no pump power connection on the coil of any stock 914. If yours has one, it has been modified from stock.
I recall yours is carbureted? So it doesn't have much to do with the D-jetronic FI that we're talking about... --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 917
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Dave... you continue to amaze me. To know Robs car in Texas is carburated.....
![]() Good magic trick man ![]() bruce
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Sit'n here Hav'n a beer. Punkin's gone (sniff) Gotta mow the Lawn... |
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not to stroke your ego or anything but you nailed it right on the head jared. It starts now without the aar, but is it ok to drive home? It's like 10 minutes away right now and where can I get a new aar valve?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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in other words can I get it at my flaps?
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 917
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Nope Biggy the FLAPS ain't got'm. I'm going by what the Pelican catalog is saying that they ain't available no mo. Try to find one from a friend or wrecking yard that has some 914's. You won't need it until it gets below 45 degrees up there in Raymond. I can take a look on the 1.7 I have sittin' on the floor & see if there's one on it. If so I'll check it out & see if it works.
You can drive without it....... bruce
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Sit'n here Hav'n a beer. Punkin's gone (sniff) Gotta mow the Lawn... |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boring, Oregon
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Well.... guess what? I had one aaaaaaaaand it works!
It's yours if you want it for that shiney nice wheel yer show'n on yer picture web site ![]() Not really ![]() Also, here's a link to a post about cleaning them. D-Jet Aux Air Valve repair is easy It took about 15 minutes for it to fully close so it may need some carb cleaner sprayed in it just to loosen it up a bit. have fun....... & send yer address if ya want it. bruce ![]()
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Sit'n here Hav'n a beer. Punkin's gone (sniff) Gotta mow the Lawn... |
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The wire that plugs in powers a heating element that closes the valve after ~5-10 minutes. It will close after ~15-20 on its own just from the heat of the engine.
You can remove it, pry open the lip of the "can" that is crimped around the lid, and check inside there. There should be a coil of "resistance wire" down at the bottom; it may have shorted to the "can" or the wire going through the bottom of the can may have worn through its insulation. (Hmm, you can check that second option out before opening up the can!!) If the resistance wire is broken or otherwise needs replacement, you can substitute enough 1-amp resistors to toal 13 ohms of resistance. A 12 ohm "bathtub" resistor will probably work if it fits. Connect one end of the resistor to the wire coming through the base of the can, connect the other end to the can so that it has a good electrical connection. While you're in there, clean and lube the rotary valve. Then put it back together again and push the crimped edge of the can back over the edges of the lid. You can seal with RTV or your favorite sealant, but I don't think vacuum gets into the can--just the upper part of the valve. ...Of course, if it's just that the wire into the bottom has worn off its insulation, some electrical tape can probably fix that.... ![]() --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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I'll check it out when I get it home tonight. Thanks for all the help.
Derek
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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oh and I pmed you bruce
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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